Thread: Positioning of combustion wood heater

Craka

I don't see a problem there. You would just need sufficient distance from the wall and/or a heatproof skin on the wall (fibro cement for example).

Normally the issue is more from the owner's point of view in trying to radiate heat through the house. Nowadays the regulations require a triple skin through the roof section in QLD, but may be different in NSW. Your heater supplier will be able to advise.

Regards
Paul

So there no minimum distance from internal doorway etc?

Apologies but what do you mean by tripple skin through roof section?

Originally Posted by Craka

So there no minimum distance from internal doorway etc?

Apologies but what do you mean by tripple skin through roof section?

The answers are in AS/NZS 2918:2001
I dont personally have a copy but here is the link to download if you want to pay
https://www.saiglobal.com/pdftemp/pr...2900/n2918.pdf

The flue needs to be triple skin , ie the flue pipe and two additional larger diameter shielding skins with air gap between each skin
Flue Pipe Triple Set | AB Industries Australia


This link may give a better overview
Part 3.7.3 Heating Appliances | NCC

I think I prefer the 2nd red square, more internal for better heat radiation.

the other thing to consider is the height of the flue.
Is it a typical roof line?
then your red square is on an outer wall and you might be tempted to just have the flue height not much higher than the gutter but it won't draw properly.
if you have the woodstove placed more internally in the house then your flue height will be taller and exit up near the ridge line?
in general terms the flue has to be higher than the ridge, like 600mm higher, otherwise air turbulence from the roof line means it won't draw properly.
So, if located on an external wall you need to work how high the flue goes.

Flue Length and Termination – Zen Fireplaces

Originally Posted by ForeverYoung

I think I prefer the 2nd red square, more internal for better heat radiation.

the other thing to consider is the height of the flue.
Is it a typical roof line?
then your red square is on an outer wall and you might be tempted to just have the flue height not much higher than the gutter but it won't draw properly.
if you have the woodstove placed more internally in the house then your flue height will be taller and exit up near the ridge line?
in general terms the flue has to be higher than the ridge, like 600mm higher, otherwise air turbulence from the roof line means it won't draw properly.
So, if located on an external wall you need to work how high the flue goes.

Flue Length and Termination – Zen Fireplaces

All very good points!

Your drawing seems to show that the door could come very close, if not too close to the heater for safety.
As mentioned, your second option would be better for the heat to radiate throughout the volume of the room.

Given the size of your "open plan" room, I would also suggest the installation of a good quality ceiling fan to help with heat distribution.
We have a wood heater in a large living room (7m x 5m) where the warm air accumulates high in the tall curved ceiling and really helps the heat to circulate.

Cheers,
Yvan

Originally Posted by yvan

... I would also suggest the installation of a good quality ceiling fan to help with heat distribution.
...

yes, good idea.

also, if you can, have a wood heater with a built in fan, this helps a lot too.
some, tho without a fan, are double skinned in parts so as to draw cooler room air in from the bottom and vent it out the top - surprisingly effective at heat circulation.

I was looking through a property for sale. They had a nifty idea for their wood burner. The house was built on quite a bit of a slope. So, they had under-house parking. Workshop. Storage. All under the main house. They kept their pile of firewood under the house too, in that space.

Here’s the interesting thing. Right next to the wood pile, there was something that might be best described as a dumb waiter. Loaded with firewood it raised it through the floor above and ended up inside a cupboard arrangement, which was positioned adjacent to the wood burner. They’d have no trail of bits of wood and bark trailing through the lounge each time they wanted to load up the fire. Nor would they have the chore of lugging the stuff through the lounge in a basket or bucket. It gets heavy after a while. And it was neat.

So, here’s the thing. Consider locating your heater in a spot next to a ‘cupboard’ (that you build) that stores the firewood. Your version of the dumb waiter. This cupboard is accessible from outside the house. Every couple of days you load up the store from your main firewood pile. And when you need it, there’s no carrying the stuff through the house. If you have been gutting the place, why not gut a bit more and put in some access to load the firewood through the wall and into the room into this ‘cupboard’ that’s next to your wood burner? You'd need to build it well so that drafts don't get in, and make it secure. All possible.