Thread: Wall mount TV 'stand' onto bessa brick wall

G'day burn I think I would go through the wall as its an awful lot of weight to trust to conventional fixings. How thick is the wall you are going to mount this bracket on?
The other blokes may have better suggestions.
Jack

I used to install roller doors which are more than 50kg's on besser block walls using Ramset 12mm Plastic Delta Plugs using 3/8" coach screws.

I have also used Ramset Epoxy fastening systems to fix them.

A TV would basically be a static load where as a roller door has a lot of constant movement and vibration and I have not seen them give way.

Just make sure the fixings are at least two courses down from the top.

Nah you got to be very carefull with hollow bessablock walls, its best to spead the load over a large area. Bolt through can be trouble if its overtightened, or subjected to much vibration.(they have very little mortar area horizontaly compared to normal bricks)
A steel plate that covers several bricks in each direction with small dyna/toggle bolts every 150-200mm around the perimeter.
Alternately you could make up a "T" shape brace from some angle iron that covers 4-5bricks high and wide, weld on some tabs for the TV mount.
Dont put bolts in any mortar!

Thanks Guys.

Barry, I am concerned that there is a risk people will continually move the TV around - given the 'seating' area and we would be mounting close to the top of the wall.

Harry, I like your T-bar suggestion for the 'washer' on the other side of the wall to spread the load in all directions.
I don't know if I can get one made in time (next weekend install). Given I could only get strips would two horizontal - say 400 x 100 x 5 be almost as good?

Burn

Pivotelli used to make wall and ceiling TV supports (the type you see in pubs).

With the ceiling type the base swivels and tilts to allow movement and will support 60KG, provided you can access the roof space to secure timber for fixing.
Jack

The very top course in an exterior besser block wall will be core filled. It's the equivalent of a solid concrete beam (that's why it's called a bondbeam) If you can get it in there you won't have any problems. Alternatively the outer walls will have filled cores (verticals) as well, usually every 1.2 M (in cyclonic areas anyway). Cores either side of door and window openings are also filled. Rapping on the walls should locate the filled cores.

Mick

Pivotelli are good but there are now a lot of cheaper Asian brackets that work as well, just look at the packaging for the load capacity, 50kg is a bloody big TV.

When I lived in a bessa-brick bomb shelter in Cairns I had the same problem. I put two 3 x 2's up against the wall and whacked a few ramset bolts into the bricks and then tied the tops into the steel roof frames. Varnished the timber, mounted the tele, put a couple of lightweight shelves underneath for the mossie coils, Rid, vinegar, stubbie holders and bar-b-setteronlighter..Hey presto, the landlord was so grateful he made me take it down when I moved out. But hey it worked.

And another thing..I once knew a girl that we all called besser..because she was as thic.........thats another story

Cheers

Squizzy's suggestion sounds good, and could be very practical with the shelfs.
To top if off it would be the cheapest and easiest suggestion so far, good one Squizzy!

50 kg I hope your feeling strong.
But back to the point.
It depends on how many mounting points there are in the bracket & how they line up with the brickwork.
If you can get into the centre webs of the bricks you'll have a better chance with whatever fastener.
I've hung equipment that heavy on dynabolts & its still there.
But I'd be looking for 4 to 6 bolts of at least 8mm x 40mm and placed well.
If you are handing 50 kg you need to be sure it will hold at least 100kg.
I would want to be able to do chin ups of the front edge of that bracket.
cheers

Or you could go the really cheap option and sell both the TV and bracket and get a plasma. At about $5,000, it will save you a lot of trouble.

I'm trying to use the same reasoning on SWHMO. No luck as yet, maybe you'll do better.

Perservere as I did, I finished up in hospital with plasma
The bruises are just starting to fade now

The ramset website has a pdf file specifiing how to anchor to bricks and blocks:

http://www.ramset.com.au/PDF/SpecifiersRB/Ch23to28.pdf

Basically, stay 2 courses from the top, use 1 anchor per cavity, ie 2 per block. Stay 60mm from the edges. You can use either short dynabolts or other mechanical anchors or use a chemical anchor like chemset.

Cheers
Pulse

Originally Posted by Pulse

The ramset website has a pdf file specifiing how to anchor to bricks and blocks:

http://www.ramset.com.au/PDF/SpecifiersRB/Ch23to28.pdf

Basically, stay 2 courses from the top, use 1 anchor per cavity, ie 2 per block. Stay 60mm from the edges. You can use either short dynabolts or other mechanical anchors or use a chemical anchor like chemset.

Cheers
Pulse

On exterior besser block walls the top course is the best place for fixings, it's where the trusses or rafters are tied in and is the strongest section of the wall.

Mick