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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2022
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    17

    Default Attempting my first kitchen build - feedback much appreciated!

    Hi All

    I'm attempting my first kitchen build for a new place I am building. I've built kitchens before under supervision of more senior cabinet makers, but this will be my first attempt solo.

    Below is a 3d image of what the kitchen will look like:
    kitchen.png - Google Drive

    I've also drafted plans and a cut list which can be found here:
    Kitchen.pdf - Google Drive

    Would welcome any reviews or comments people have!


    In terms of equipment:

    Need some help with the type of cutting equipment I need. When I've built kitchens in the past I've had the luxury of big panel saws which I can't afford to buy.

    Melamine and laminex sheets typically come in 2.4m x 1.2m. Was thinking I'll need a track saw to cut these down to something manageable then a table saw to perform the final cuts. Any tips of what makes/models/blades I should buy?

    Also, was thinking of buying an edgebanding machine (don't really want to use an iron over and over again) and a bench drill for accuracy.

    I have drills/sanders/squares/levels/measuring tapes etc.

    Anything else you think I'll need?

    Thanks

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, QLD
    Posts
    800

    Default

    Hi Astur,

    You could cut all your panels to size using a track saw, just make yourself a measuring rod and use that instead of a tape measure, this should help make your cuts consistent.

    With your base units set the back panel in by say 30mm this will give you a void against the wall for running pipes/wire and you will be able to scribe the units to the wall should it be out of line.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    AU
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Maybe you want to do every step by yourself, and that is awesome, but why not utilise the service of the timber place where you're buying your melamine to do the cuts for you? The cost is relatively minimal and they can do the edge banding for you as well.

    Addy

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2022
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Thanks for the reply! There is only a stove on the back wall so no pipes, plus I'd run those in the wall cavity (as I have that luxury).

    With a track saw, I'm just mindful of having to set it up over and over again, which add alot of time to the build. I've worked out that if I can get a table saw with a 1.25m rip length, then this will speed things up significantly. The only ones I can find in AU though have ~600mm rip width which sucks.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2022
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Thanks for the replies. Great advice.

    With a tracksaw I'm just mindful that I'll spend alot of time setting it up over and over again. I'm trying to find a table saw with a >1100mm rip width which would do most of my cuts, but struggling to find that in AU.

    I could ask them to cut, but knowing me I will screw up a dimension (or 5? lol) and have to go back there and cut again. Cutting myself allows me flexibility with mistakes

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,030

    Default

    Echo what Andy said, it would make the job far easier an less stressful.

    Cheers Matt.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    AU
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by astur View Post
    Thanks for the replies. Great advice.

    With a tracksaw I'm just mindful that I'll spend alot of time setting it up over and over again. I'm trying to find a table saw with a >1100mm rip width which would do most of my cuts, but struggling to find that in AU.

    I could ask them to cut, but knowing me I will screw up a dimension (or 5? lol) and have to go back there and cut again. Cutting myself allows me flexibility with mistakes
    It does take some forward planning if ordering as the edging is approx 1mm thick, so you need to account for that when calculating sizes.
    In a kitchen build, not many panels should be wider than 600mm (typical benchtop depth with overhang). However ripping long panels accurately is a challenge.

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2022
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Yeah I think I’ll cut it myself. Any recommendations for a table saw with a 50” rip width? Was hoping not to spend more than 1k, but all the mainstream ones have a rip width over max 700mm

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    37
    Posts
    2,721

    Default

    I’d go a good quality track saw with parallel guides. If you have a cut list you could just set up the guides and batch them out.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    1,018

    Default

    Do a forum search. There's been a fair amount of discussion around kitchens/cutting/banding - it won't be specific to yours, but its good general advice.
    Easiest, quickest and most accurate would be to farm out the cutlist to the local cabinet fabricator, who will do it all, and probably at close to the same price you'd pay buying the boards alone.
    For the DIY route (which is why we play on these forums), consistency wins over accuracy, so batch your cuts, set your table saw or track guides to each cut width, and do all the same cuts at that setting. Simple MDF jigs for a track saw and guiderail would work perfectly well for this.
    Edge banding is trickier - you'll be spending a bit of money for a machine. Five grand for a Conturo? Even 2nd hand looks like a few thousand for a machine...

    The other alternative would be to go for one of the more modern manufactured panels - like valchromat - if you can find one in a suitable colour. However, you'd still need to finish these, so you'll end up spending your time & dollars on that instead.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2022
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Thanks for the reply, but I think I'll invest in a table saw, I need to build wardrobes, bathroom vanities, TV cabinets etc.

    I noticed none of them have a pony blade (to cut the melamine before it gets to the main blade which cuts the sheet itself), is this a problem with getting clean cuts from table saws?

    What sort of blade is recommended for clean melamine cuts?

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    54
    Posts
    3,440

    Default

    I’ve never found a blade to cut melamine covered particle board that doesn’t chip out on one side; only the big panel saws with scribing blades seem to work and that is why everybody here is recommending having them cut and edge banded by a professional cabinet maker. I have however made many cabinets using just a Triton Workcentre by carefully planning the cutting order to ensure that all the edges that will chip are subsequently hidden from view. For edges that are still going to be visible afterwards I leave them 2mm oversized and then use a router to bring them to size; the router cutter leaves a smooth clean edge.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    In between houses
    Posts
    1,784

    Default

    The only way to get clean cuts on the modern thin melamine board is with a sliding table saw with a scribing blade. Buy a nice secondhand Altendorf or similar and go for your life. Don’t waste your money on a single blade small cabinet saw. Alternatively, spend $100,000 on a nice cnc router and it can do it all, including drilling all your holes.

    The advice given to farm out your cutting and edging to a professional company is well founded and smart, I do it as well and I have a massive panel saw already, those guys buy the board in pack quantity and get it far,far cheaper than you or I ever could. Plus, manhandling 8’x4’ sheets around and onto a saw isn’t easy on your own, believe me I’ve done it heaps of times in my 53 years of being a joiner.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, QLD
    Posts
    800

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by astur View Post
    Thanks for the reply, but I think I'll invest in a table saw, I need to build wardrobes, bathroom vanities, TV cabinets etc.

    I noticed none of them have a pony blade (to cut the melamine before it gets to the main blade which cuts the sheet itself), is this a problem with getting clean cuts from table saws?

    What sort of blade is recommended for clean melamine cuts?
    It's called a scribe blade not a pony and they come on panel saws and they are the blade that cut more fingers than the main blade.

    The thing with a panel saw is the footprint is much bigger than a table saw and you would be spending $2K upwards for a second-hand machine and they are going to be 3 phase.

    If you can use CAD software, then best to draw up your design and then workout your cutting list allowing for the edge banding, also without an edge banding machine you are going to have to go with the pre glued iron on, which in your first post you said you didn't like, but again most quality edge banders are 3 phase.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2022
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Well I have 3 phase power and a large garage I can put a panel saw into, so that’s no problem. There’s heaps for sale second hand in my area for about 2-3k. My concern is available parts and blades for these second hand machines may be scarce. Any recommendations for makes/models?

    I checked some price lists and most places charge $5 per cut. If I add this up over the entire kitchen, all the vanities and robes I need to build, this would outweigh the cost of a machine.

    Otherwise I can use cad to sketch it all up and pass it onto them.

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