Thread: Couple of quick Kitchen questions....

1) Generally, yes. Some (like microwave cupboards) may also specify inside dimensions, but typically this will just be 32mm less than the outside dimension (2x16mm thick board).

2) Yup. End panels where the carcases stop. Typically kit carcases look really yuck on the 'hidden' side.

2a) You can hide the screws that hold carcasses to each other by placing them under the hinge plates, or right at the very top rear corner of the carcase (do this before you put the benchtop on!)

3) Height...tends to be about 2 meters, but they all seem to be a bit different. Check the height of a floor mounted (no kickboard) full height cupboard (like a walk in pantry) to see what the designer had in mind. The rest of the space can have a bulkhead added when the cabinets are all done.

Note that you can change the bench height with a taller kickboard if (like me) you hate things that are designed to fit the smallest possible person. (I like benchtops at 950mm).

Other things that I have found useful...

Try to eliminate unnecessary inside corners (ie notch the end panels back to meet the kickboard at the ends of runs...otherwise they are terrible dirt traps that are a pain to sweep.)

If your kitchen design lends itself to it, try raising the dishwasher off the ground by about 400mm. Makes stacking/unstacking much easier! The space under can be a pot drawer or something.

Cut (neat) holes where there will be pipes or power. Other trades seem to use the 'hammer and screwdriver misused as a chisel' approach when making holes in carcasses.

Don't use vinyl wrap...spend the extra and get polyurethane, if that's the look you are after.

Originally Posted by anawanahuanana

2: Am I correct to assume you need end panels fitted whenever there is a gap in the floor cupboards, ie: for a dishwasher or bin, but otherwise the carcasses are just fixed together?

3: When talking about fitting oven/microwave/pot drawer cabinets, the height of the kitchen is relevant. Is this the height from floor to ceiling, or just to a height where the cornice will cover the gap at the top?

Simple things I know, but everyone has to start somewhere!
Thanks!

2: I wouldn't worry about end panels in a dishwasher space. I've never seen anyone do that.It would probably look worse with them there.

3: as already said they all tend to be slightly different.

Kickboard height tends to be from 140mm-150mm
Carcass height usually 720mm
B/top Tickness 20mm-33mm-40mm depending on what material is used
gap between b/top and underside of wall cupboards is generally 450mm-480mm
wall cabinets are usually 720mm also

so the top of the wall cabinets is generally 2050-2100mm
A lot of kitchen companies do higher kitchens to 2200mm by extending the height of the wall cupboards and custom jobs can go as high as you like but you'll need a ladder to get to them.
A micowave wall unit will generally hang down lower than the wall unit to about 350mm off the b/top and be about 820mm carcass. Gives better access to the microwave having it lower.

If your designing it your self just think about what b/top height you want some taller people prefer it a little higher like 950mm.

Fridge depth really should be 700mm. The std 600mm deep space has the fridge sticking well and truely forward.

D/washer space is generally 610mm wide
Check and double check all you appliance dimension.
Try and design you kitchen so that it will be easy for you to install.

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

Cut (neat) holes where there will be pipes or power. Other trades seem to use the 'hammer and screwdriver misused as a chisel' approach when making holes in carcasses.

I have a superb set of 'chisdrivers' that I will pass on to my children one day.

I thought I'd do the same thing. I've done a decent no of kitchens back in the uk, but my wife found a company called Kitchens by Kathie at Virginia. Kathie designs the kitchen for you and then hubby builds the cabinets downstairs in the workshop. You collect the cabinets fully assembled, take them home and install them. It was the easiest kitchen I've ever done, and the result surpasses all the others. Worked out cheaper than any other supplier I checked out.

Now there's nothing to stop you getting Kathie to design your kitchen, then taking the plans, and 3D pics she gives you, and buying it all somewhere else. Since she designs kitchens every day, she's likely to remember all those little details that make a kitchen a joy or a PITA to use for the next 10 years.

No connection to Kathie, but she impressed me, and I have high standards!

Originally Posted by rhancock

I thought I'd do the same thing. I've done a decent no of kitchens back in the uk, but my wife found a company called Kitchens by Kathie at Virginia. Kathie designs the kitchen for you and then hubby builds the cabinets downstairs in the workshop. You collect the cabinets fully assembled, take them home and install them. It was the easiest kitchen I've ever done, and the result surpasses all the others. Worked out cheaper than any other supplier I checked out.

Now there's nothing to stop you getting Kathie to design your kitchen, then taking the plans, and 3D pics she gives you, and buying it all somewhere else. Since she designs kitchens every day, she's likely to remember all those little details that make a kitchen a joy or a PITA to use for the next 10 years.

No connection to Kathie, but she impressed me, and I have high standards!

well then shouldnt that be kitchens by frank ,designed by cathy

I"m sure Frank suggested that, but somehow it got changed....

BTW, is that you on your website, Tom? Nice site, I might get you to do the next reno!

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

You can hide the screws that hold carcasses to each other by placing them under the hinge plates, or right at the very top rear corner of the carcase (do this before you put the benchtop on!)

Note that you can change the bench height with a taller kickboard if (like me) you hate things that are designed to fit the smallest possible person. (I like benchtops at 950mm).

Other things that I have found useful...

Try to eliminate unnecessary inside corners (ie notch the end panels back to meet the kickboard at the ends of runs...otherwise they are terrible dirt traps that are a pain to sweep.)

Cut (neat) holes where there will be pipes or power. Other trades seem to use the 'hammer and screwdriver misused as a chisel' approach when making holes in carcasses.

I use profix screws and caps to join cabinets together, the caps have a long stem on them and once in tend to stay in.

The higher bench height is a really good idea especially if you get a sore back when doing stuff in the sink.

Another way to eliminate those corners is to wrap the kickers back around underneath the cabinets if your design allows.

Back when I used to install kitchens I had a set of holesaws marginally bigger than most standard pipes and with careful measuring you can usually get the holes pretty neat.

Some more hints.

Plenty of display kitchens out there, take your time and have a good look around. Thers plenty of options available. Consider drawer banks as options to cupboards.

Try to work out your appliances before you start eg 900 0r 600 wide oven, type of cooktop etc and don't trust the measurements given in brochures or even the supplied manuals. I used to get the appliances and build the cabinets to suit if possible. Consider 700 deep panels for your fridge space, can cost more but prevents the fridge hanging out past the panels.

Solid backs on your cabinets tend to give the cabinets more strength and make sure they use HMR board.

Consider glass splashbacks behind cooktops etc, eliminating grout sure helps keeping it clean.

Anyway just a couple of thoughts.

Take your time and I'm sure you'll be happy with the end result for years.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Much appreciated. It'll be taken away and digested now. And then I'll finish the bathroom!
Cheers!