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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    4

    Default Installing a new kitchen

    Hi
    I am about to install a new preassembled kitchen & I am looking for a bit of advice
    * Prior to plasterboarding the new kitchen area is it wise to put in extra studdings & noggins
    if so where abouts
    I was thinking about extra noggins for the wall hanging cupboards
    Has anybody got any suggestions?

    * Once the walls are plastersheeted. Do the kitchen carcases, screw directly to the studs throught the plaster sheet or are the carcases stood off the walls. If so how much.
    I was thinking the carcases may have to stand out from the wall 25mm or so to allow the bench tops to sit flush against the wall.
    Again has anybody got any suggestions?

    * when you set the kitchen out I assume that the real secret is to get the base plinth dead level. As I'am sitting the base onto a existing tiled floor I assume I have to just plane or sand the premade base plinth until it is dead level. Is that correct?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Gold Coast,Australia
    Age
    49
    Posts
    350

    Default

    adding extra nogging and studs may help with the placement of overhead cupboards,but generally you dont need to do this.

    look into using plastic adjustable feet for the base. you can level the kitchen by wind these up or down and they dont cost that much. then scribe the plinth to the tiled floor,glue with liqid nails and seal it off with silicone.

    we generally build a 16mm void into our back carcases just in case the walls run out of square.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    ipswich Queensland (Gods backyard)
    Age
    69
    Posts
    337

    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by sidk
    Hi
    I am about to install a new preassembled kitchen & I am looking for a bit of advice
    * Prior to plasterboarding the new kitchen area is it wise to put in extra studdings & noggins
    if so where abouts
    I was thinking about extra noggins for the wall hanging cupboards
    Has anybody got any suggestions?

    * Once the walls are plastersheeted. Do the kitchen carcases, screw directly to the studs throught the plaster sheet or are the carcases stood off the walls. If so how much.
    I was thinking the carcases may have to stand out from the wall 25mm or so to allow the bench tops to sit flush against the wall.
    Again has anybody got any suggestions?

    * when you set the kitchen out I assume that the real secret is to get the base plinth dead level. As I'am sitting the base onto a existing tiled floor I assume I have to just plane or sand the premade base plinth until it is dead level. Is that correct?
    i,m not sure about what you have bought for your kitchen but it seems to me that you should have been supplied with the requirements for installation with the product,regardless of this it is very,very(i,m hunting wabbits) important to take a lot of time making sure that the kick frame/boards/legs whatever you have are dead level,find the lowest point in the room and make this your highest point in regard to your kickboard height,then work away from this point and cut down any remainder of kickboards to suit this point,studs inthe wall are really unimportant unless you cabinets fall half way between studs ,then its probably a good idea to add ,
    kind regards
    tom armstrong
    www.armstrongcabinets.com.au

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Cairns
    Posts
    31

    Default

    In regards to your solid plinths (kicks), the easiest way I 've found is as follows.
    Place all kicks on the ground where they have to go, and screw any joining sections togethor. Treat all as one big kicker.
    Find the highest point and pack up the rest of the kickers to this level using scraps of masonite/laminex (making sure it is level front to back as well.)
    Find the biggest gap and scribe a line around base.
    Depending how much you have to take off, you may be able to sand off excess, or use electric plane. If planeing beware of going around corners (ie where sides meet face) that you don't "blow" off the adjoining laminex.
    Hope this makes sense and is of some help!!
    Regards Simon

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