Thread: Leadlight basics

Originally Posted by HiString

Al,

Do you brush (with a small BRASS brush) the joins before fluxing and soldering?

No I dont, should I?

Also, the correct iron has a right angled tip with a regularly maintained slightly rounded surface and recommended flux for lead work is a specific wax block or a liquid animal fat flux.

I was told to use plumbers flux, maybe I have to chase an animal and get some fat

I havent got a soldering iron yet so more to come later.

Al

Yes mate, the surface of lead oxidises, and even with new cames one should clean the surface of all joins prior to fluxing and while I used the term "correct" regarding the right angled tip irons, I probably should have said "prefered"............when doing leadlight they are much easier and convenient to work with compared to a normal "chisel tip" iron.........same applies to solder, it is much easier to work with 3.0mm solder "wire".

On any panel that is to be framed (cupboard doors, windows, etc), the border lead should be either 10.00mm or 12.4mm Flat, for hangings use 6.00mm U channel around the edge.

Thanks Al, always wanted to try lead lighting but didn't know where to start. Will have to find a local supplier. HiString??
The old Bakelite handeled Birko soldering iron brings back some memories.
Try removing the tip and giving everything a good clean and a light sand with some fine sandpaper then re-tin the tip.

QUOTE............."Will have to find a local supplier. HiString??"

Once upon a time I could have helped but I'm too long removed from the craft..........apart from holding onto "special" stuff for myself, I sold off all stock I was holding for retail. From memory there are sources listed in the Yellow Pages, specifically A Touch OF Glass and/or Creative Leadlights.

I'm tied down bricklaying and doing other work around here for another month or so (attempting to stop water in the future ) but if I get time, I'll try and contribute more info on the basics of leadlighting.

Originally Posted by HiString

I'll try and contribute more info on the basics of leadlighting.

Cool.

Al

Greenie sent as promised Al, top thread.

Thank you..

I still want to post more on it yet, I just have to get the soldering iron and the brush and the solder and the time and the...............

Al

[quote=ozwinner;525743]Welcome back viewer.

Leadlight isnt all that hard to do, if I can do it, so can you..

Tools needed.
Glass, of course, it comes in a wide range of styles and colours.
Lead came, this holds the glass together.
A pattern, from a book or make a design of your own.
A good electric soldering iron, around 80 watts.
Silver Solder, usually in stick form, try to get 60/40 ish solder.
Horse shoe nails, available from your leadlight supplier
Glass cutter, I paid about $30 for mine about 10 years ago and it has an oil reservoir to aid cutting, the better the cutter the easier it will cut.


Great thread gents.
I have wanted to try it for ages, now I have somewhere to start from.

Al, you need to edit your original post just in case someone tries to melt "silver solder" (used by plumbers with Oxy Propane) with a soldering iron, and 60%silver in silver solder would be a trifle expensive

For anyone wanting to teach themselves correct techniques, etc., the first thing you should do is obtain a copy of "Australian Leadlighting", it will probably cost around $35 BUT it is an excellent book for anyone starting out AND it is Australian.

Well, I've decided to take the next step and have a go at leadlighting, I'm starting classes Tuesday night at a local craft shop who do ceramics mostly, but hold leadlight ones twice a week. I'll let you all know how it goes, a special thanks to Al for giving me the push I needed by posting this thread.

I will post my work as it progresses, I have several ideas that I hope to start selling at the local markets every couple of months.

Good for you, I cant wait to see some of your projects.

Al

Hello groovers. I currently do stained glass in Japan with a group of old biddies on Sat mornings. I use the copper foil method and tin the copper foil after it has been applied to the edge and then tack the pieces together until I'm finished and them completely solder everything together with a nice little dome effect. Tiffany style. This channel method is new to me. I will load some pics when i have the chance. damien.

"Leaded glass", ie: using lead channel is the traditional method that goes back "forever". The "copper foil" method was allegedly pioneered by Tiffanys to allow them to produce the exquisitely intricate designs created by their artists.

The main thing when using foil is to use a flux that is either "non corrosive" or that is easily washed off when the project is finished as the last thing you need is flux residue left behind slowly eating away at the copper.