Thread: sikaflex-11FC

Originally Posted by HELLICONIA54

Has any one used Sikaflex-11FC polyurethane,adhesive sealant.? In the auto industry its the only one trusted to stick things for good.My only gripe is that if you don't use it all ,at once,then it sets in the tube regardless of what you do.

Yes, it has been used with success, regards from Jeff

Breathes a big sigh of relief.

I have also used the similar Bostik products (bostic Gold Flex and Seal Bostik Seal 'N' Flex FC) with no failure of the glue so far. Not so sure about my designs though. They are a few bucks cheaper than the Sika products and seem almost identical to my highly amateur eyes. Similar problem with going off once opened though.

To make it last a few days I have stuck the biggest nail I can find down the nozzle and sealed with electrical tape. Remove the tape pull out the nail and the small amount that hardens in the end gets cleared by pulling the nail out.

The below pulls out my reports on Duckworks

titulaer - Google Search

Here are some test results on a variety of glues including sikaflex 11FC
http://koti.kapsi.fi/hvartial/glue/glue.htm

I use the sikaflex 291 marine adhesive sealant on my boat. I find that storing the opened tube in the fridge slows down the curing rate and seems to keep it usable for quite a while. I also poke a nail into the end of the nozzle and tape around it to try to keep air out. Hope this helps.

Regards
Twosheds

When trying to keep moisture cure products like this, I've found if you tape the end of the tube, then squeeze a little goo into the tape, it'll skin and cure in the taped area, but you can pull this put of the end as a hunk of cured goo, then continue to use it. Some are worse about this then others. Another way is to store the tube in a sealed jar. drop the tube in the jar, then using a gas, like propane, MAPP, argon what ever, fill the jar with it, which displaces the moisture laden air, then screw on the lid tight. This is an old trick to force air out of a container. It also can prevent paint from skinning over in the can.

I always grab two nozzles for each tube.
Then I cut one nozzle in half and use it to cap the working nozzle. As Par points out , the little which fills the 'cap' cures but the nozzles are made so the sika won't stick to them.

Don't forget to back off the caulking gun when you've finished for the day, you get less waste from the nozzle that way.

As for sticking stuff together with Sika, what are we gluing?

I've seen a sample of Sika 11FC - bonding a piece of timber to metal, with the Sika being about 8mm thick. You could feel the flex, but could not budge it by hand. I was impressed.

However, as others, less than impressed with using less than 10% of most 310ml cartridges, because they harden up so quickly. Tried the fridge and plastic spiral (orange) sold for the purpose, but did not make a huge difference. At my usage rate, it's quite an expensive glue.

Now, what I'd really like, is to get a 2-part adhesive/sealant with Sika's bonding and sealant qualities. So you mix it like epoxy resin, but the unmixed remainder should not harden up.

A year ago I had a quick look around, and found a class of adhesive called Methacrylate sold as a 2-pack. By all accounts it bonds very well, and will bond "dirty" surfaces too. One brand is Plexus (there were others). Even though pricey, I wanted to buy some until I found out that the product spec sheet declared a limited shelf life, something like three months (ie. unmixed). That killed off that particular product for me.

But, I still believe there's potential in the 2-part adhesive/sealant idea.

Anyone here know of other two-part adhesive/sealants, in any industry, that remains flexible and within the price range of amateurs?

Dunno about 2-part stuff, but Fixtech do an interesting range.
I am very happy with a tube of their MSP Clear.
Over a 9 month period I used 1 tube to:
= bond plastic inspection ports to a kayak (no screws),
= seal roof gutters & attach down-pipe fittings,
= seal bolt & rust holes in a metal wheelbarrow tray (I actually glued fortecon patches over the holes. The fortecon has peeled off, but the glue seems almost immovable),
= bonded wooden fittings to the wheelbarrow tray to adapt it onto a sack truck when the barrow frame died, reinforced with a couple of screws.. The tray is coming to bits but the bonding is still tight. No indenting around the screws which suggests they aren't doing much of the work.

16 months after first opening (24/9/09), the little bit left in the tube is stiff but still useable. No special care taken - I just squeezed a wee bit out the end & screwed the cap back on the nozzle. It lives in the shed - temp range 0degC to 45degC.
cheers
AJ

Originally Posted by titchtheclown

I have also used the similar Bostik products (bostic Gold Flex and Seal Bostik Seal 'N' Flex FC) with

Here are some test results on a variety of glues including sikaflex 11FC
Construction glue for boatbuilding?

watch out seal n flex is not an adhesive more of a mastic skia flex pro is same as seal n flex.

For what it's worth I use the saugaes you can cut off the dried end bit and keep using the balance for a long time.

Originally Posted by Gaza

watch out seal n flex is not an adhesive more of a mastic skia flex pro is same as seal n flex.

For what it's worth I use the saugaes you can cut off the dried end bit and keep using the balance for a long time.

Be careful the Bostik Sausages all look quite similar and there are some very significant differences.
Seal n flex 1 is a Polyurethane sealant
Seal n flex FC is a Polyurethane sealant/adhesive
Seal n flex AC is an acryllic sealant (not waterproof internal to house only)

They also make a fireproof PU and Acrylic sealants (lame joke warning) This might prove handy if your boat catches fire- to rebuild your boat all you would have to do is poke bits of wood between the bits of sealant left hanging there.

Bostik - Construction And Building Sealants

Originally Posted by titchtheclown

Be careful the Bostik Sausages all look quite similar and there are some very significant differences.
Seal n flex 1 is a Polyurethane sealant
Seal n flex FC is a Polyurethane sealant/adhesive
Seal n flex AC is an acryllic sealant (not waterproof internal to house only)

They also make a fireproof PU and Acrylic sealants (lame joke warning) This might prove handy if your boat catches fire- to rebuild your boat all you would have to do is poke bits of wood between the bits of sealant left hanging there.

Bostik - Construction And Building Sealants

i use seal n flex for building not boat building.

Originally Posted by Gaza

watch out seal n flex is not an adhesive more of a mastic skia flex pro is same as seal n flex.

For what it's worth I use the saugaes you can cut off the dried end bit and keep using the balance for a long time.

I give the sausage tip a BIG

I have just had some in a gun and everything blocked and if it had been a cartridge it would have been toss out time. With the sausage it was a simple matter of pulling the top off and cleaning the hardened stuff out. The fact that the sausages are cheaper for volume is a double bonus.

Originally Posted by titchtheclown

I give the sausage tip a BIG
I have just had some in a gun and everything blocked and if it had been a cartridge it would have been toss out time. With the sausage it was a simple matter of pulling the top off and cleaning the hardened stuff out.

Haven't used the sausage format before but would like to. Mind telling how you seal the front opening of the sausage bag, after you have cut off the hardened portion (I assume you cut the hardened goo plus the sausage skin material off at the point where the contents transition from hard to soft)?

Originally Posted by Karsten

Haven't used the sausage format before but would like to. Mind telling how you seal the front opening of the sausage bag, after you have cut off the hardened portion (I assume you cut the hardened goo plus the sausage skin material off at the point where the contents transition from hard to soft)?

You only do it when you want to use it and the nozzle of the sausage format actually slides over the sausage skin. It can be a bit messy though. It went hard on me while it was in the gun so I was able to unscrew the cap that holds the nozzle on, pull the nozzle off and clear it out. Storing partially used sausages is a simple matter of pulling out the sausage, which crumples at the end as you use it and sticky taping over the used bit.