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Thread: Tasmanian Oak
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14th January 2006, 06:32 PM #1
Tasmanian Oak
Any thoughts - good or bad - on the use and suitability of Tasmanian / Australian Oak for boat frames etc?
And what are the suggestions for the best timber for stringers?"May your dreams of today
be the reality of tomorrow"
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14th January 2006, 07:00 PM #2
G'day Aberdeen,
Most Tas Oak (marketing name for several distinct species of Ash & whatnot - this has been discussed several time on this forum; I'd suggest a search) is kiln dried, so I suspect that if it were to get wet, nasty things might happen.
Fo small boats/yachts, Cedar is often used for stringers; don't know about Western Red Cedar for this purpose.
I'd suggest asking around small boat clubs, old fashioned boat yards, etc.
Sorry not to be of much help.
Cheers!
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14th January 2006, 07:25 PM #3
Tasmanian Oak
Thanks Steve B
I will try a search on the forum.
Have time to sort things out"May your dreams of today
be the reality of tomorrow"
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14th January 2006, 08:07 PM #4
Spotted Gum mate, the heart of many a good boat.
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14th January 2006, 08:43 PM #5
Now I have actually heard of Spotted Gum.
Next thing is to find suppliers here in good old Adelaide.
I assume it doesn't cost an arm, leg, outboard motor.
Thanks"May your dreams of today
be the reality of tomorrow"
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14th January 2006, 09:18 PM #6
The Good Oil from RIC Good Wood Guide
I've finally found some information on Aussie timbers suitable for boat building..... will keep hunt thru own interest in this subject and it may be of help to someone?
BLUEGUM (H) (OS)
Bluegum, or Sydney Blue Gum (Eucalyptus saligna), occurs naturally from Southern NSW to South Qld. Durable. Suitable for general building, cladding, flooring, boatbuilding, furniture, plywood. One of the species grown extensively in plantations in South Africa, plus Hawaii and New Zealand.
KARRI (H) (OS)
Karri (Eucalyptus diversicolor), is native to south-west Western Australia. It is one of Australia's tallest hardwood trees. Larger formats and clearer grades are more likely to be old growth (see note). Heartwood is moderately durable. Suitable for flooring, panelling, structural plywood, shipbuilding. Mature plantation sources are still very limited.
OREGON (E) (S)
Oregon (pseudotsuga spp.) or Douglas fir, is native to eastern America, from Mexico to British Columbia. On this side of the world, it is grown in plantations in western Victoria and New Zealand (in limited quantities). It can be used in applications both above-ground and where exposed to the weather. Mature virgin forest Oregon is classed as durable; however, the plantation product, if exposed to the weather, must be adequately waterproofed and maintained. This plantation-grown variety has a looser grain than the Canadian and American (old growth) versions and does not have such high load-bearing qualities. Used for structural framing, joinery, vats, boatbuilding.
SPOTTED GUM (H)
Spotted Gum (Eucalyptus maculata) occurs naturally on the poorer clay subsoils of the east coast from the Vic-NSW border to the Maryborough district in Qld. Heartwood is durable. Suitable for heavy piles, poles, shipbuilding, agricultural machinery, flooring, plywood, axe handles.
HOOP PINE (S)
Hoop Pine (Araucaria cunninghamii), also called Dorrigo Pine, Colonial Pine, or Arakaria is a rainforest timber, native to northern NSW, Queensland and the mountain regions of PNG. It is the only native tropical timber grown in substantial quantities in plantations within Australia. Hoop Pine is available on the NSW market as plywood, mouldings, sawn timber and slabs. Queensland has extensive Hoop Pine plantations which are now mature. Building Applications for Hoop Pine
To avoid distortion, framing sizes should be high-temperature dried
Uses
Boat building (masts, planking, deck beams, frames, marine plywood), aircraft construction, wood wool, paper products, arrow shafts, broom handles, cooperage, beehives, brushware, dowelling, blind rollers, draughting implements, boat oars, musical instruments (violin and guitar bellies), scaffold planks, match splints."May your dreams of today
be the reality of tomorrow"
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14th January 2006, 11:02 PM #7Originally Posted by AberdeenIf you never made a mistake, you never made anything!
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15th January 2006, 07:32 AM #8
Thanks 4 that.
King William Pine, is that a Tassie, mainland or elswewhere timber?
I am aware of Huon Pine but thought that was getting very rare/hard to get and quite expensive - or is my ignorance unfounded?
Glenn in S.A.
Originally Posted by Shedhand"May your dreams of today
be the reality of tomorrow"
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15th January 2006, 08:19 AM #9
King Billy Pine
Originally Posted by Aberdeen
King Billy is getting harder to get, our traditional huon pine millers on the west coast still mill it when they can obtain supply, price is the same as huon pine.
Check this site for a picture of the timber http://www.indeco.net.au/kingbilly.htm I've sold some in the past to a couple of kayak makers.
regards
Kev M
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15th January 2006, 08:43 AM #10
Well I had better not wait then, can I order 6 pkts of seeds
"May your dreams of today
be the reality of tomorrow"
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22nd January 2006, 09:03 AM #11
Howdy Aberdeen,
For a boat like the Hartley you don't need to use hardwood like spotted gum, bluegum, karri.
They are all too strong for the loads in a Hartley so you would just be adding quite a lot of weight for no good benefit.
Most boats of the era were framed in Meranti - the smarter builders used the red stuff which has quite good rot resistance, whereas the pink or whitish stuff rots out quickly. Though if you go the epoxy route you can pick a non-durable timber - even the whitish meranti.
Meranti has much more expensive in recent years (like almost everything else) and there seems to be less of the red stuff round.
If you use oregon or hoop (or other timber of similar density) they will save you quite a bit of weight for better speed and fuel economy, cut the sweating when you are working them and the boat will be heaps strong enough.
I would do comparison costing between Hoop, Oregon and Meranti - and also look at other timbers that Timberyards may have in stock. Reasonably clear (cut between the knots), straight grain, good gluing properties, similar density.
If going the epoxy route you don't need to have permanent fastenings (screws and nails) - which can save a bit too.
Michael Storer
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22nd January 2006, 09:33 AM #12HOOP PINE (S)
Hoop Pine (Araucaria cunninghamii), also called Dorrigo Pine, Colonial Pine, or Arakaria is a rainforest timber, native to northern NSW, Queensland and the mountain regions of PNG. It is the only native tropical timber grown in substantial quantities in plantations within Australia. Hoop Pine is available on the NSW market as plywood, mouldings, sawn timber and slabs. Queensland has extensive Hoop Pine plantations which are now mature. Building Applications for Hoop Pine
To avoid distortion, framing sizes should be high-temperature dried
Uses
Boat building (masts, planking, deck beams, frames, marine plywood), aircraft construction, wood wool, paper products, arrow shafts, broom handles, cooperage, beehives, brushware, dowelling, blind rollers, draughting implements, boat oars, musical instruments (violin and guitar bellies), scaffold planks, match splints.Have a nice day - Cheers
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22nd January 2006, 01:58 PM #13
Mik & Rowan
Seems you guys are on the same parallel, also Ted from the 'Duckery' reckons Hoop is the best option, both quality, weight and price.
I assume it holds epoxy well?
So guess what - I'll go with the audience and use Hoop. Will be using Hoop ply anyway, had that to build Rusty and was very happy all round. Might be a bit heavier than some of the other options but a lovely consistent finish.
Reckon if I can get thru building the 15 footer anywhere near as nice as the first 3.3m then the 24 foot one shouldn't be that hard.... would have had lots of practice by then...... just gotta find a bigger shed before I retire
Glenn down south"May your dreams of today
be the reality of tomorrow"
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