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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Sydney
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    49

    Default Plasterboard and wiring...

    I'd like to install a couple of ethernet, phone and coax (antenna) connections in an old fibro home I have just purchased. Trouble is that underhouse access is ridiculously tight (well no way am I going to fit anyway ) so my only other option is to go from the roof down. I obviously need to drill down from the ceiling to the ground to thread the wires through. Can anyone offer me some advice on how best to approach this?

    My plan was to use a stud finder to locate crossmembers in the wall and cut a gyprock panel enough for a drill to fit and drill a hole repeating this until I reach the ground. Now to make replacing the gyrpock panel easier I was thinking of cutting it so it overlapped with the vertical member so that I could glue/stick the panel back on to give it some stability when I put it back into position and plaster around it. Does this seem the right way to go about it? Note about 10 wires will be fed down (2 RJ45, 2RJ11, 1Coax) for each room. The wall will be shared by 2 rooms so I only have to cut one wall's gyprock.

    Any other ideas on how to tackle this or tips from those that have done it.?

    I hate retrofitting wiring in old houses. I thought wireless would be fine but it's performance sucked for what I want and you can't have wirless aerial connections so in for a penny, in for a pound as they say. I'd hire a tradesman in a second but am on a budget which won't allow it.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kentucky NSW near Tamworth, Australia
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    85
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    Default

    RePO

    A lot is going to depend on a few things. If your ceilings are higher than 2.400 metres you will probably have two noggins. If that is the case it is going to be difficult because the spacings of the noggins are going 1/3 of the height of the ceiling.

    If it is only 2.400 it means you need a speed bore or spade bit with a 1200 extension. You can buy extensions from electrical wholesalers to do this.

    Before you could buy them my friend who is an electrician had one made up by welding a steel rod to a speed bore. You would want about a 11/4" to 11/2" speedbore.

    Once you have the holes drilled cut your holes at the bottom then get a strong cord and tie a sinker to it to drop it down through the holes then draw a strong pull wire to it and pull that through then tie all your cables to the pull wire and then pull your cables through.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Latrobe Valley Victoria
    Posts
    296

    Default

    My suggestion is get a sparkie in he does this every other day.
    Properly do it quicker and neater and would have all the necessary equipment.
    Electricity:
    One Flash and you're ASH

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Pambula
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    58
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    Default

    Doesn't have to be a sparky though, get an antennae installer in. Will probably be cheaper.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Armidale NSW
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    53
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    1,938

    Default

    Or get a data cabling installer.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
    __________________________________________________
    Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Sydney
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    49

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Barry_White View Post
    RePO
    If it is only 2.400 it means you need a speed bore or spade bit with a 1200 extension. You can buy extensions from electrical wholesalers to do this.
    I don't think it will be that simple. With 1200 extension I'm assuming that once I get past half the height there won't be any more horizontal members inthe wall to pass through. I have the kitchen exposed atm and the horizontal members seem to be spaced roughtly every 60 cm all the way down. The house is old and done before prefab frames so it's kind of built like a rock..

    Hmm options. I'll get a studd finder and confirm how the existing walls are structured.

    I appreciate the suggestions of cablers etc but money is way too tight with all the things I need to do and I figure it's a good experience anyway. Can't see a bit of plaster and tape being cheaper than a tradesman for all the rooms I want to do, 4 in total.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    In a House
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    353

    Default

    Oh yes the speedbor welded to a 2400 length of steel rod that bring back the days watch out it gets the wobbles up and you have to be spot on in the middle of the noggin otherwise your going to spear out through the gyprock or the fibro instead and if you are not use to this it can be a pain in the butt to operate if you are hell bent on doing it yourself i would just do what you are going to do get a stud finder and mark the noggins cut holes and drill them then feed them through then patch later a lot easier for a novice and probably cheaper in the long run! I got around this hassle on one job by running a lenght of aussie duct right along side a split A/conditioner duct work and it blended in a treat!that was on an external wall of course

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    between orange & forbes nsw
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    77
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    144

    Smile

    If you are going to cut the plasterboard to give access which is the way I would do it I would cut battens to fix to the existing wall sheet at the top and bottom of the opening. These battens need to be longer than the opening is wide but short enough to fit between the studs. These are attached to the back of the sheet by glueing and screwing through the plasterboard. Your new panel can then be glued and screwed to these battens and will give a sound joint which can be taped and set. If you choose to drill using any length extension remember you need the clearance in the roof cavity to get the extension through the top plate to start with. If these walls are near the perimeter walls you will need to take some of the roof sheeting off to give sufficient room to get the extension with speed bore attached into the hole in the plate.

    Good luck
    Bob

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bob w View Post
    If you are going to cut the plasterboard to give access which is the way I would do it I would cut battens to fix to the existing wall sheet at the top and bottom of the opening.

    Good luck
    Bob
    Thanks Bob. I was talking with the Bunnings man. For the first time in my life the guy I spoke to actually knew what he was on about and suggested the same thing as you just did. I think I'll follow this plan and see how it goes.


    PS Thanks everyone for the input so far!

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    722

    Default

    I've seen a couple of electricians use an old length of 'Yellow Tongue' tongue (if that makes sense) to feed teh wire through. It's stiff, yet flexible and about the same dimensions as a power cable.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    On the Downs, Darling SEQld
    Posts
    1,167

    Default Snakes Tongue

    Quote Originally Posted by OBBob View Post
    use an old length of 'Yellow Tongue' tongue.
    Yep!
    As a Snakes tongue.
    Slit it;
    and tape the wire into the slit.
    then pull it through, SLOWLY
    Quote Originally Posted by OBBob View Post
    if that makes sense.
    Navvi

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kentucky NSW near Tamworth, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by OBBob View Post
    I've seen a couple of electricians use an old length of 'Yellow Tongue' tongue (if that makes sense) to feed teh wire through. It's stiff, yet flexible and about the same dimensions as a power cable.
    Standard issue to Telstra Techs and Linies. A great piece of kit.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    722

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Barry_White View Post
    Standard issue to Telstra Techs and Linies. A great piece of kit.
    The funny thing is that the first time I saw it I had just moved into my first house ... and I thought, that a cool tool you must be able to buy them at the electrical shops. It wasn't until later when I got into the reno's that I realised what it actually was.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kentucky NSW near Tamworth, Australia
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    85
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OBBob View Post
    The funny thing is that the first time I saw it I had just moved into my first house ... and I thought, that a cool tool you must be able to buy them at the electrical shops. It wasn't until later when I got into the reno's that I realised what it actually was.
    I was fortunate enough to scrounge a length from Bunnings. The minute they have a spare length somebody snavels it so it's hard to get hold of unless you buy a sheet of yellow tongue.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    49

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Barry_White View Post
    I was fortunate enough to scrounge a length from Bunnings. The minute they have a spare length somebody snavels it so it's hard to get hold of unless you buy a sheet of yellow tongue.
    I keep hearing about this but in reality I have no idea what it is. If I went to bunnings and asked for yellow tongue would the guy just stare at me and laugh?

    Anyone got pics so the mystery is cleared up for me once and for all?

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