Thread: Advice for timber decking

bb,
welcome, only ever used NGR as an internal joinery timber on boats, haven't even seen it used in exterior applications for housing. I've only ever seen three timber species used for decking: Teak, Vitex and White Beech. Thre's some experienced boatbuilders and shipwrights around here who may be able to give you some more species.

Mick

Many thanks Mick - will look forward to more advice from fellow users. I have seen it recommended for ribs, stringers and gunwales but not sure about decking. It would be great if it is ok as I can source some through a mate
Cheers
Byron

I've used NG rosewood for cabins, bulwalks, coamings, sponsons and transoms. These sections were all finished with a varnish or laquer though.
Wouldn't mind experimenting with NG rosewood as a decking material, the only cons I can see are:
NG Rosewood is more prone to splintering than popular decking timbers making it a bit more temprimental to machine.
Slightly less dense than teak
Doesn't have the oil content of teak or beech and won't withstand direct exposure to elements as well, but is still quite a durable wood.
Long lengths (over 8 feet)are hard to come by. (so I'm told)
However
At about a quarter to a third the price of teak, still would be worth a shot.
Teak's just becoming outragously expensive.

Originally Posted by boatchippy

I've used NG rosewood for cabins, bulwalks, coamings, sponsons and transoms. These sections were all finished with a varnish or laquer though.

One of the reasons always quoted for the use of oily timbers like White Beech and Teak is that the oils prevent excessive drying of the timber so the timber is less likely to crack. I don't have any information to know if it is true or not.

So I agree completely with boatchippy - it probably should be coated with something.

Wouldn't mind experimenting with NG rosewood as a decking material, the only cons I can see are:
NG Rosewood is more prone to splintering than popular decking timbers making it a bit more temprimental to machine.

You are right - this could be a serious safety issue. If you clout teak hard so it splinters it ends up being quite big pieces with reasonably rounded/soft edges. ie the splinters are chunks and are blunt Or it just dents a bit.

Using rosewood - if the deck gets hammered at some time - somone dropping a winch handle or a tin of pineapple chunks or anchor - then it will raise those sharp needle like splinters that Rosewood is prone to. Next person to come along could skewer themselves quite badly. Though having it varnished or epoxied and varnished does tend to reduce the risk of splitting. Then there's the problem of repairing the damage. If you sand away the damaged bit you'll be able to see the hollow by the reflection in the varnish.

Unless you like pottering away with maintenance, varnishing decks will add quite a lot to the work required. Every year or year and a half they will need to be sanded and another couple of coats added.

I might be overstating the case - see how others respond to this.

MIK

Thanks for the thoughts Boatchippy and Boatmik. It appears that there is so far no definitive answer yet but I like the thoughts that it may be worth a go with rosewood but I guess it is one of those things that on one hand the cheaper price is very appealing and then on the other hand I do not want to make a rod for my own back as it is something I only hope to do once. The idea of varnish does not grab me as it will be moored in the local creek next to the bay so it will be exposed to the elements so I was hoping to use a deck oil for it, not that I know which would be a good marine oil for such a deck.

After a 7 year restoration project I am keen to reduce the maintenance where possible so that I can spend my time sailing and as such varnishing decks does not grab me.

Another timber another yard suggestion was NZ Beech but once again I have no idea whether it would be suitable. It appears that celery top pine is available which would be good but it then the guy said that there were too many knots in it and that the clear pine was at least twice the price - life shouldn't be this difficult???
Many thanks for the help so far.
Cheers
Byron

Howdy - if you don't want maintenance - go for a tried and true solution - maybe not teak or white beech, but something else with the same oily properties.

Or paint the decks.

If you don't want maintenance don't do anything unusual.

MIK

Howdy - if you don't want maintenance - go for a tried and true solution - maybe not teak or white beech, but something else with the same oily properties.

Or paint the ply decks so you can use the boat until you can afford the good stuff.

Any timber exposed to the elements has to be the good stuff. Even more so for decks which don't shed water or avoid the sun for much of the day like a tree trunk.

If you don't want maintenance don't do anything without a proven track record.

MIK

Thanks Mik - I think you could be right - I was keen to save some money and also finally buy something after trying to search out different timbers to no avail. But in the end I hope the deck is on for many years and looks good so I may need to be patient and source out some recognised deck timbers. I have sent through an email to the PNG Forest Ind as a last ditch hope to confirm whether rosewood is suitable - I don't know whether I'll get an answer but its worth a try.
Cheers
Byron

hi mate the only suitable timber for decks is teak ,beech,celery top ext .
also ive seen tallow wood used .
please dont use rosewood interior only and super structure only .
you will only be disapointed .
you need to use a very oily timber as previous posts have stated .
contact the shipwright asoc in your state for all the relative info and the brocure from the forestry commision. "timber used in boatbuilding "
also you could consider the use of synthetic and cork subsitutes available .they look and feel like a traditional deck without the up keep
one is plastic and one is cork and are very easy on the eye and pocket .
but you will need to lay it down on a ply substate painted and preserved with 2pac paint over a glass/epoxy system.
good luck i hope it goes well
viking