Wooden NS14 restoration - How does this traveller work? ... and much more

**graemet** · 18th January 2010, 11:30 AM

G'day Ace,
Normally. the mast shouldn't flop at all. It should have diamond stays to keep the mast relatively straight sideways but allowing it to bend in the fore and aft direction. If you have a rotating mast, it should be able to turn, but not flop. Keep the over-rotation down to 15 degrees max until you know what you are doing. When setting the boat up for sailing efficiently (read no hard work) you should have enough rake to cause the boat to round up SLOWLY if you let go of the tiller while working to windward. This means you should always be pulling the tiller, very lightly, one or two degrees toward you while on the wind, which allows you keep sailing towards your goal even with momentary lapses of concentration, and without the armbreaking weather helm when the wind gets up a bit. A powerful vang, such as Miks cascade system or a drum winch will keep the sail shape even when you ease off the mainsail in a gust. It will also allow you to bend the mast in a bit of a blow which flattens the sail and makes it easier to depower the rig. It also stops the main from flogging around if you drop the sheet for any reason. If you are inexperienced, it's a good idea NOT to try and adjust the shrouds while sailing, set 'em up tight and try it all out. If you find that you need to push the tiller to stay on course, come in, tighten the shrouds a couple of holes on the adjusters and try again. The jib lacing won't pull the tack as far down as before for the same tension.
Cheers
Graeme

**graemet** · 18th January 2010, 11:33 AM

It would pay you to get someone experienced in dinghy sailing to help you interpret all the advice you're getting, not your mate who has taken the occasional stroll through the rigging area and has sailed a couple of times on a 40 foot yacht!
Cheers

**Boatmik** · 18th January 2010, 09:15 PM

Originally Posted by graemet

( Mik, how did you get way with such a slack vang? I generally had a 15/1 purchase on mine.)
Cheers
Graeme

So did I eventually. For my second NS14.

But am advising here in terms of making the boat perform pretty well without the expense of going that last bit to the "bleeding edge"

Three none ball bearing blocks and a clamcleat can give you the 8:1. Problem with higher is that the frictional losses get out of control and you have to shift to ball bearing blocks (three or four times the price).

Do you remember the Australian Sailing article (from maybe 15 years or so ago in the days when i used to read the magazine regularly) when someone did an article on the real power of multi block purchases if the frictional losses are included in the calc. It means very much diminishing returns as the numbers get high - just plateaus even with more purchase added. Levers can be nice way of avoiding that friction but are somewhat out of favour these days.

Also a somewhat weaker vang may help reduce the risks of not getting the mast rotation quite right.

Best wishes
Michael

**graemet** · 18th January 2010, 09:38 PM

G'day Mik,
I used a drumwinch with a 2/1 purchase. Initially a homemade 6" drum with a 1" shaft giving 12/1 overall and then later a commercial winch which had a smaller axle and drum.
It was amazing to see how much power you could get with a bit of light line.
Cheers
Graeme

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