Thread: Wooden NS14 restoration - How does this traveller work? ... and much more

Hey,

Thanks for the info. Its all soaking slowly, just have to finish the boat and get sailing. Hopefully by the end of January.

I hear you about the expense, anything custom to a certain type of boat cost a bit. I guess there are always the people that will spend the money on the latest and greatest bits.

Having a look through Youtube i stumbled on some videos giving a good explaination of how things like the traveller and the Boom Vang, work.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C31nGzO54O4"]YouTube- Broadcast Yourself.[/ame] is just one of them. Every little bit helps.

Atm i think i have a 4:1 vang system (could be wrong) Same blocks as these:

RF187 - Utility Blocks#Series 25mm & 29mm Narrow| Ronstan Sailboat Hardware AUS
RF186 - Utility Blocks#Series 25mm & 29mm Narrow| Ronstan Sailboat Hardware AUS

I havent completely rigged up yet so im not sure how effective it is. Soon ill give it go though.

Ace

We can change that to an 8 to one using a metre of 5mm spectra and one of the cheap stainless steel blocks I mentioned in Ronstan's range. RF571 for example

MIK

Maybe a metre and a half.

Where abouts would i add the extra block?

Ace

There should be an attachment point at the base of the mast and also one about 3ft back from the front end of the boom.

Shackle your existing 4urchase to the bottom attachment point on the mast.

on the boom you attach a single block like an RF571.

You tie the 5mm spectra to the mast fitting as well, it gets passed through the block on the boom then gets tied to the top part of your four to one purchase.


Most of this is your existing vang system. The only bits you are adding are the line labelled spectra and the block on the boom - they have a RF351000 there. The cheap non ball bearing blocks from Ronstan are really strong compared to the ball bearing ones - and a lot of the friction can be counteracted if you use smallish ropes in the normal size blocks.

The top block we are adding is called a "cascade" and doubles the power of what is there already.

If you didn't have any blocks I would have suggested doing a full cascade system which is the cheapest, lightest and most effective way of getting a powerful boom vang or any system - providing you have enough space to fit one.



The one above is sixteen to one and only uses four sheaves.

Clever, eh!?

MIK

It wasnt long after you posted that MIK that i found a diagram similar to the one you posted. I may have to give it a go.

Cheers

Ace

When I raced NS14s sometimes I would borrow a boat. The most common weakness of borrowed boats in those days was that the vang was not powerful enough. With a bit of spectra and a single block in your pocket you could fix it quickly and easily.

MIK

Having never sailed with a vang before, i wouldnt know the difference. Basically im starting this sailing thing all over again. It was probably 16+ years since i last sailed. Thats my reason for all the questions.

I really do appreciate the help you all have given me. My project is coming along nicely thats to all thegreat advice.

Thanks heaps

Ace

PS. More questions to come.........

No worries.

I have a big soft spot for NS14s. They are such great boats, so it is a treat to see one being put back together!

Michael

Its an oldie but a goodie. Im very happy with the boat so far. Very few problems for a roughly 20 year old boat.

Any idea on how much newer boom could cost me? The one i have is a little corroded.

Cheers

Ace

During the era of the boat we just made wooden booms out of two pieces of timber in a T section.

Very stiff and strong, reasonably light. And cheap. If you want to go that way I will try to remember the dimensions and tell you how to prevent the gooseneck from splitting.

MIK

I would be very interested! I guess the fittings i currently have would need to fit, not too keen on buying a heap of new gear. Limited budget )

Cheers

Ace

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

We used 19mm thick Oregon or something lighter. Hoop pine or another timber without any knots, not too heavy with straight grain would work.

the horizontal bar of the T was at the top and was made in about 65 x 19mm
the vertical stem of the T was underneath and was made about 55 x 19

Just glued with epoxy.

Normally we put in a bit of taper on the stem between the vang and the mast - maybe taking it down 30% at the mast end and do similar at the back end - just for appearance.

The top bar also is tapered, What sort of gooseneck fitting do you have already?

If you drill holes through the horizontal bar closely adjacent to the stem you can lash all the blocks/pulleys in place with 4mm spectra. However the vang would need to use some sewn up seat belt webbing without the holes in the boom to take the bigger loads.

MIK

Thanks for the numbers MIK, i will definately have to give it a go. Im not sure what type of gooseneck i have or who the maker is (havent looked) but it would suit a wider stem thats for sure. My boom atm, im guessing would be around 50mm width, i should be able to block it up and attach it just for the length of the gooseneck fitting.

As far as all the other fittings, would it be stronger to lash them up or would screwing/bolting still be sufficient?

Im quite keen to try this out. My mast doesnt seem to be too bad from what i can see as far as corrosion is concerned. There have been some fittings moved so there are some screw holes still open. Might be able to fill them in at work with a welder (Tig, isnt it?).

As i said before, the boom has some pretty bad corrosion under a couple of the fittings, but it is still useable for now.

Cheers

Ace