Thread: Wooden NS14 restoration - How does this traveller work? ... and much more

Howdy,

You are just missing a couple of blocks near where the traveller is attached to the deck. You will probably see some holes from where they were or they shackled on the end of the traveller.

Those ropes went to the blocks near the ends of the traveller, then to the sliding part of the traveller, so they turn a right angle and have good lateral control of the block.

If the wire is cruddy, you can change it over for a piece of 4mm spectra line these days.

The other way is to use "vang sheeting" as in the picture below. Get rid of the wire and replace it with a piece of rope tied to the same points. The mainsheet block is simply tied in the middle - but the rope is quite loose so the block is just a bit below the blocks on the boom.

With the sliding traveller, the wire or rope needs to be reasonably tight.

It might take a bit of adjustement to get it right so don't cut the ropes early!

You do need a fairly powerful boom vang - at least 8:1 to make this system work. We use it on the sprit version of the PDRacers.



You can see more pics in this set of PDRacer rigging pages

Best wishes
Michael

Thanks for the info. Im still not 100% with how my current setup works even after MIK's explaination. I would like to simplify it as much as i can.

With the "Vang Sheeting" is there a particular length it should be from the block on the boom?

Also, silly q coming up.......Just to confirm. The main sheet is threaded from the main block on the floor of the boat, through the two blocks on the boom, down to the block on the traveller then back up and secured to the block on the end of the boom. The end of my main sheet has a sister clip.

Sound right?

Thanks again

Ace

The mainsheet threading you mention is spot on.

With the adjustable traveller, like original, if there is a block next to the place the traveller wire is attached - then the adjustment rope will go from the cleat directly back to the block, then go through a right angle and tie off to the block rolling on the wire traveller.

With vang sheeting you just need the sheet to work OK even when the mast is at its maximum rake and the vang is on at its maximum. Basically you are trying to get the block on the traveller as close to the blocks on the boom as possible without them touching. But it is easy to adjust the knots.

MIK

Thanks MIK!

I cant see any evidence of the blocks you metion near the wire, it could have been there at some stage. I think from what you say i will simplify the systems and redo it as vang sheeting.

Another question for you......

Im also thinking of replacing some of the ropes, what types do you recommend?

Cheers

Ace

Any halyard in 4mm spectra - the traveller too.

(I think the blocks were probably shackled to the loops in the ends of the traveller wire originally)

Any control lines can be 4mm prestretch - one brand is excel pro

Mainsheet - 8mm double braid polyester
Jibsheets - 6mm double braid

MIK

Just a couple of things on rigging:

ebay search on "spintech". Very cheap blocks, about 1/3 ronstan. I've bought a few to see what they are like.

My dinghy was probably set up with the vang sheet system. I'm not going to use a boom so I'm going to rig a bridle mainsheet instead. I know it doesn't give as good sail control but I love the simplicity.

There is a lot of cheap rope on ebay including double braide poly 10 mm for a fraction of what chandlery's sell it for. Don't know about the quality. Tonnes of telstra rope aswell....

2c

Thanks again for the great info.

I think i will have to get the ropes of EBay, seem to be a bit cheaper and have free postage to, from what i can see. The Spintech blocks look pretty good too, price is right!

Cheers

Ace

I'll report on them when they arrive, should be next week. I got a pair of 35 series fiddles and a pair of fiddle becket cams.

Do look hard at the rope, quality and price varies.

I'm a lazy sailor, which is why I like multihulls. They are effortless and because they'll sail under a hankerchief strung from cotton I don't worry about string twiddling. I also dislike the expense and maintenance of winches. It is possible to rig a 30' boat with nothing but 4:1 and 6:1 purchases, nd with those blocks it's a VERY chep way to go.

You need to consider my lethargy when reading my advice or thoughts on boats...

Lethargy is something I can live with!

The blocks can be the cheapest in the Ronstan line. There is no reason to go for ball bearing blocks.

This size will do for anything except the mainsheet blocks
Utility Blocks Series 25mm | Ronstan Sailboat Hardware AUS

If using an 8mm mainsheet then the bigger ones of these will be enough (though you will need a ratchet block for the block on the cockpit floor.)
Utility Blocks Series 29mm | Ronstan Sailboat Hardware AUS

One of the nice things about modern ropes is that there is the tendency to keep the blocks the standard size but reduce the size of the ropes. This reduces friction hugely.

MIK

That's quite right, and the difference in price for those cheaper blocks negates buying from the us, especially since the ronstan and harken range are available from local discount chandlers, but I just bought the above for about $140AU delivered. That's the equivalent to 2 X RF41530 @ $106.92 each and 2 X RF41500 at $53.94 each, so a bit under half retail including postage.

In the 50 series RF51530 is $144.02 spintech $41.08 pp. Bias $129.90 for the ronstan. I'm not suggesting anyone NOT buy ronstan or harken, I'm just mentioning I'm giving the cheper ones a go to see what they are like.

Originally Posted by Boatmik

Lethargy is something I can live with!

The blocks can be the cheapest in the Ronstan line. There is no reason to go for ball bearing blocks.

This size will do for anything except the mainsheet blocks
Utility Blocks#Series 25mm | Ronstan Sailboat Hardware AUS

If using an 8mm mainsheet then the bigger ones of these will be enough (though you will need a ratchet block for the block on the cockpit floor.)
Utility Blocks#Series 29mm | Ronstan Sailboat Hardware AUS

One of the nice things about modern ropes is that there is the tendency to keep the blocks the standard size but reduce the size of the ropes. This reduces friction hugely.

MIK

The blocks you mention are the ones i have already fitted, they all function fine but look a little worse for wear. A nice clean up will help them along.

I have a ratchet block for the main sheet but that could probably do with replacing as there is a tooth missing from the ratchet wheel on the roller. It still works so its not a major problem.

I would still be very interested in hearing about the quality of the blocks from Spintech. I strongly believe in value for money, especially when there isnt a lot of it around

One thing for sure im having fun with this sailing thing again, and i havent even hit the water yet.

I have another lot of questions regarding some repairs i may need to do. It seems that the centreboard case has a bit of sideways movement. At some stage there were some supports that ran from the rear top edge of the case to the forward flotation tank (they have been removed for now).

1. How do i go about resealing the slot in the centreboard case? A view from the top shows peeling paint.

2. Is it possible to remove the case without major surgery, is it simple as sawing it off then replacing it when finished?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Ace

I think ive found a system that is similar to my traveller system that i had installed. The only difference i can see is that the traveller is on a rail rather than a sheet like the vang sheet system.

The Harken website has some handy setup guides for a lot of different classes but unfortunatley not the NS14. Still a great learning tool though.

The other system.......Is that what you were trying to explain MIK? But maybe not as hightech.

Ace

No, it's more like the laser arrangement.

Harken: International Laser Deck Layout

only not necessarily with the vang near the mast.

Basically it's a purchase off a bridle strung across the transom, running forward to a point on the boom then down to the sole of the cockpit about half way between the daggerboard case and the transom (at least I think that was the variation he was talking about). It's a kind of auto tension device, because you usually want tighter/flatter sails with narrower sheeting angles it's does both with 1 pull. If you saw one you'd see how it works immediately, maybe a trip to the local dinghy club for a squiz and maybe crewing on someone's boat ??

It was worth a try. Ill keep to a simpler system i think, easier for my inexperiened mind to handle he he.

I do appreciate the information and help that you guys are easing my way. Gotta start somewhere i spose.

Ace