Thread: Tile edges

G'day FB,

I have had good results using an angle grinder with a masonry grinding wheel and rounding over or chamfering the tile edges. Takes a bit of practice first, so try it on a few off cuts until you are comfortable. Once you get the feel of it, it goes very quickly. Turning the tile around will not help as the grout should not be as high as the edge or it will look strange.

Muriatic (pool) acid will work for the wash. I will let others who know more about the composition of your local concrete speak to the strength and duration. You are cleaning and sort of etching the concrete to give the mortar something to grab and stick to. Good luck.

Tanks Bob. This will be my first attempt at tiling and will see how it goes.

Bill

I've used a belt sander to both tidy up edges of polished porcelain tiles (putting a bevel back on to the cut edge so it matches the other edges) as well as to level off normal glazed tiles (getting the edge flush with the top of a 1.2 meter high wall).

I was expecting it to really chew through the sanding belt however I did both jobs with the same belt...probably about 30 meters of edge all up, and the belt is still ok. (just a regular 120 grit 3M belt, nothing fancy)

Based on this experience, I'd recommend sticking the tiles on and then giving the edges a brief introduction to the belt sander - its a bit easer to keep it looking neat than an angle grinder.

Brick/concrete cleaning is usually done with 1 part hydrochloric acid to 10 parts water. Saturate the surface with water first so that it doesnt get sucked into the concrete, brush it on with a stiff broom, leave for a few minutes and hose it off.

You may be able to texture the surface enough for the adhesive using a high pressure washer, if you want an excuse to buy one!

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

Based on this experience, I'd recommend sticking the tiles on and then giving the edges a brief introduction to the belt sander - its a bit easer to keep it looking neat than an angle grinder.

An excellent suggestion as well. The reason I round them before sticking on is in case I stuff one I haven't got to dig it out and replace it. I clamp them to a benchtop with the edge just hanging over and work them that way.

The belt sander should be a go, but be very careful not to get carried away, so you don't end up having to chip them out to redo them.

you could use an alum or brass edging for this purpose and it will certainly make for a neater look.

Cheers
Michael

Id would suggest you try to set out the tiles so you dont have a cut tile on the outside edge. Try have the cuts facing inwards to a join so any roughness is covered with the grouting.

Thanks Guys, will dig out the belt sander and try a few clamped to the bench before I get confident enough to stick them down first
Bill

Wouldn't it be best to start tiling away from the building (ie at the far edge of the patio) so that you end up with a full tile at the edge (which will look much better than a cut tile at the edge). The cut tiles should be butting up against the house/building. You don't need to worry about the sharp edge then.

You should be putting down chalk lines etc anyway, so it should be pretty simple to start at the other end.

My 5c worth

Trav

Billy,
sounds god so far. I acid etch with 10% HCl and then prime with a primer such as multiprime. Use one made by the adhesive manufacturer that you are using. This will seal the dust and assist adhesion.

Are you tiling the main area at 45 degrees? If so run the border tiles around with uncut edges on the corners. Cut edges elsewhere should be sunk slightly below uncut edges to reduce risk of cutting feet.

Other options are edge tiles or aluminium angle as mentioned.

Cheers
Pulse