Thread: Coffee table revisited

Looks good to me. Nice one.

Excellent work there!!

Your M&T joinery seems to of gone together well.
Why are you spraying polyeurethane & not NC lacquer???

Great work Dave.

Nice one Dave. Isn't it satisfying when your M&T joints work.

Thanks for the encouragement guys! You're right about how satisfying it is to create m&t joints that work.

Major: The reason I use poly is simply because that's all I'm familiar with. It's also easy, gives a decent finish and is inexpensive. Are there any particular reasons why you suggest NC laquer? I am very open to suggestions.

Nice looking table, and cute model.
Question: I was wondering how you guys have been making your photos as thumbnails. I don't see the option for that.
Rick

Rick,

When you post go to the section " Manage attachments" and follow the prompts to attach a picture. This will create the thumbnail.

Peter.

Thanks Peter. I just tried it in edit mode but maybe it only works on a new post and not in "edit" mode. So I just used the thumbnail from my site. I will try it on my next new thread.
Rick

Originally Posted by dave_edson

Thanks for the encouragement guys! You're right about how satisfying it is to create m&t joints that work.

Major: The reason I use poly is simply because that's all I'm familiar with. It's also easy, gives a decent finish and is inexpensive. Are there any particular reasons why you suggest NC laquer? I am very open to suggestions.

Dave,

Poly is pretty easy to spray but difficult to fix any problems & is very difficult to do any repairs later if the piece gets scratched or damaged.
NC lacquer dries in 20 mins, is very easy to sand out any imperfections or stuff-ups & if you use the non pre-catalysed variety is very easy to effect repairs (it just melts into the base layer)

Major,

Can you elaborate on NC lacquer a bit. What does the NC stand for? non catalysed? can you give an example ie a brand name and product.

I'm keen to learn more.

Cheers

NC stands for Nitro-cellulose. Sorry I can't give a brand name, but I used it on large surfaces at WW school and it's excellent, for the reasons given by Major above.

Nitro-cellulose laquer comes in 2 forms, stuff call pre-catalyzed which is harder than non per-cat but it won't meld with the previous coat (like varnish). Non pre-cat melds much the same as shellac does, forming a deep luster.
The brand I use is Mirratone & is available in all states, look under 'coatings' in the yellow pages.
Mirratones' technical staff answered all my dumb newbe questions & offered good advice
If you have any other questions just ask & I'll help if I can

Funny thing is "smokeless" gun powder is a nitro-cellulose-based compound. I picture a spraying disaster that involves launching my projects at 2,500fps!

Major: Altough I ended up using poly on this project, I am heavily considering your suggestion on my next one. It's a set of maple end-tables that are framed and trimmed with bubinga. I was thinking about using a tongue oil/poly blend, but I think the laquer may bring out the wonderful grain of the bubinga much better!