Thread: Competition Chess table design & Build

Looking good, now to start the board?

Taking Notes LN

As always LN you'rs are worth watching. Should be up there on the day.
Regards
John

Cutting the two drawer fronts.

Yes cutting two fronts for one drawer for the upper part of the table. The fronts were all sized and sanded along with the two sides before cutting.



Glue up of two fronts finished. Just after this pic I also cut the fronts and sides to length, cutting the mitres on my compound mitre saw.


I would have carried on today but we got family visiting so I got forced out of the workshop to go sight seeing.....

Cut some biscuits in the mitred sides and did a glue up I used so many clamps I had to break out Steve Maskery's unique square to test how square it was from the inside of the glue up as I couldn't do my normal diagonal measuring using a tape.

The bottom of the drawer unit is 3/8" maple veneered mdf and is simply glued on directly to the frame of the drawer unit. But as I only had 1/2" I had to thin it down to 3/8" using my belt sander. In the first pic you can see two pieces of scrap in the foreground which when thicknessed will become the moldings.




After thicknessing to 1/2" they were passed over a 1/4" radius cutter on my table router to make a half round, then this was cut off on the table saw leaving perfect half moon moldings for edging the mdf base.



Ripping off the half moon molding


Molding pinned and glued in place


All the moldings applied, You may have noticed the varnish on the mdf, well I only had some mahogany stain varnish but I thought it more prudent to seal the mdf before it gets a chance to warp. :lol:

Drawer runners and gussets fitted



A close up of a drawer runner




Close up of a gusset. The drilled hole in the gusset is to fix the top, directly below that hole in the bottom of the unit is another larger hole enabling me to get to the screws when I position the top.




Directly below the left hand clamp head you can see the larger hole that will allow me to fix the top on later.

Fitting the legs to the top


Holes drilled to take the base, (the unit is upside down) the big holes are the ones to get a screwdriver through to attach the top.




The drawer unit gets screwed to the legs.




Starting The Drawer

Half blind dovetails started. Extreme care needed on the length of the drawer because it has two fronts to line up, so using half blind dovetails adds to the chaos.




Two down, another six to go.




Dry fitting the first joint, three more to go.

All four corners done and here I'm dry fitting the sides to the fronts.



Grove dado or housing joint call it what you like cut in all the four sides for the bottom panel, using the router table. The grove on the fronts are blind so you can't see them when assembled.



All glued up and ready for a sanding.



Sanded and in place, I added a chamfer to the lower edge and sides of the front to give the illusion of a gap all round.

Very nice nibbo. good clean corners & neat half blinds. This is gonna be a real piece of work.
I'm really enjoying the picture show too so keep em coming!

You do a lot is such a short time. At least to me it seems to be a short time.

Coming along nicely. Great work and great pics.

Great work and a great WIP LN. Looking forward to the finished Article.

I'm at a point now to add some string inlay to the sides and I'm undecided if not to add lipping in contrasting wood around the drawer fronts.

Adding the lipping is going to hide the half blind dovetails Then thinking about it it all about the aesthetics of what it looks like with the drawer shut

No going back the deed is done

Once upon a time it was part of the drawer fronts


Now the deed is done so no going back

Rebated all around the drawer fronts ready to take a holly or sycamore lipping.