Thread: Jarrah and Huon Pine Jewellery box

Nice use of two iconic timbers!!

How stable has the Jarrah proven to be?

Two of my favourite timbers, great piece. Was the lid meant to overlap the edge?

Hi Gentlemen,

Thank you for the kind comments.

Artme, the Jarrah has proven very easy to work. No tear out, planes well using low angle smoother and a high angle No 4. (Both LN) It oiled and finished well and hasn't moved or done anything unusual since I finished it Monday.

SJT, On some boxes, where I use magnets on the lid, I will leave an overhang at one corner to allow people to lift the lid a little easier. Bot not on this box!. So I fixed it.

Regards,

Rob

Very nice Rob

I've had one of those on my radar for ages but haven't found the round tuit yet.

Really nice, Rob, well done. Love the jarrah! You have certainly shown it at its best

How did you re-inforce the mitre joints of the box sides? I cannot see any sign of splines.

Is the lid one continuous piece of jarrah? Any chance of it curling up?

Do you find the magnetic grip of the rare earth magnets fairly strong? I use them on a saw blade box, and find them tough to break open, esp when I have magnet to magnet attraction. Had trouble at one stage when the door would not close. Took the piano hinges off and re-installed, same problem. Turns out I had like poles on the facing magnets. That door was never ever going to close.

Hi Dengy,

There are no splines on the mitres. I've found that Titebond ii seems adequate to hold mitred joints on larger boxes OK
The lid is two pieces from the same board as the sides. I squared one edge with a Festool TS75 Plunge saw and rail, then cut the two pieces and inverted one against the other. Should be fine.

As far as magnets go, I use magnets from here. I use 10mm x 10mm cylinders for the box body, then 10mm x 3mm for the lid. I make the holes using a 10mm diameter bit on a drill press. Usually one pair of magnets is enough. I've also had occasions where I had to almost pry the box open. When I go to seat the magnets, I now always place the 10mm x 10mm in first, then check the polarity of the 3mm against the 10mm. I find this works well for me. I use a 10mm metal dowel centre point to line up the holes perfectly. I also found an Engineering place (Metal works) who had 10mm diameter steel rod. If you can find a way to make clean cuts, this works well too.

Hope this helps,

Regards,

Rob

Thanks Rob, this is very useful info

Well done on the box.