Thread: Letter openers

Pretty nice wood contrasts.
Are you sawing the blanks or splitting the wood along the grain?

Hi Robson Valley,

The blanks I run them through the table saw along the grain to square them up.
Than I slice them up on the bandsaw in 10 mm strips to make the letter openers
and than I run them through the thicker to get the saw marks off and to the thickness I want. The blanks are still green and I let them dry out for 6 to 12 months. The thing is I don't understand is the ones I sliced up to that size to use
for letter openers are ok. But the ones I slice up from 40 mm to 150 mm they left to dry out for about 2 years or more. But the time I get around to use them they all have cracks or splits. I have to squeeze glue into all the cracks and clamp them up so the timber can be used. It is a shame because it is a beautiful timber. I still have some thin pieces here that is about 5 or 6 years old still great. I am one of these woodworkers if I can squeeze glue into the timber to save it I will. Don't like to waste great timbers. If you know any way I can stop this from happening it would be most appreciated.

Cheers Graham.

Predictably, the greatest rate of water loss in drying should be the open end grain.
The 10mm thick strips are mostly side and not much end! Possibly they dry more evenly.

The thicker stuff has more "insides" with more water in the wood.
Common practice is to paint the ends of thicker wood to slow down the rapid end loss
when compared with water loss from the sides. Any sort of paint, even glue will help.
I suggest that you consider doing this ASAP to larger pieces.

Western Red Cedar shake blocks are bits of wood 60 x 30 x 20cm. Fresh, about 18kg.
Left to themselves, they crack. If I split one into 2cm thick strips, no cracking at all.
Like your 10mm pieces, perhaps.

Interesting idea on the letter openers. I might try and make one as well with an off cut.

Hi christos,


When I made those letter openers. I sliced the timber on the bandsaw and use the bandsaw to cut the tops out on letter openers and just use the disc sander on the belt sander to get the shape on the points I was after. If you do make some and when you sander them down with all your grades of sandpaper. After you use your finest grade sand paper. You might already no this try brown paper for the finally finish before you coat them. After the finally coating goes on go over it with the brown paper. I use it all time now after I accidentally pick up a piece brown paper instead of sander paper and I was a mazed how timber came up smoother and it also bring up MDF smooth and shiny. I even use it to polish all my finished projects now.


Cheers Graham.