Thread: A few pics of WIP

Gidday

As always great pictorial of you work Niki. Really am appreciating your posts and learning a lot in the process!!!

Great stuff!!!

Please keep em coming!!!

Regards Lou

Beautiful Niki
I kow Im probably goin to regret askin this but for my 100000 + 1 stupid question... how are the glass shelves secured?
Cheers
Shane

Thank you so much for the kind words

NewLou
Knowing that you are "Dark-sider", as you noticed, all the work was done by machines but there was one thing that I did in the "Dark-side" method; After I routed the recesses for the glass and the glass holding strips, I squared the corners with chisel and believe me, that was the hardest work (for me) in all this project

Wild dingo
It's the normal 5mm pin shelf holder but designed for glass.
The glass sits on a clear, round, soft plastic pad like those "Vacuum" thingy.
I hope that the pic will help (it's only one support, the other one is reflected by the mirror)

niki

Attachment 41859

Great Show & Tell Niki

I really like your inventive way of doing those wood things

I've have 1 question. How do you make sure when you glue up the carcass of the chest that everything is 90 degrees? I mean you could glue up a carcass and end up with a trapeziod carcass when you do not square things right.

I always use a way to keep the carcass squared. Sometimes I use a square backplate for squaring, but there isn't always a backplate. In other situations I use my selfmade 90 degree glueing angles (2 woodopieces in a 90 degree corner on the edge of a square piece of plywood). I use such a glue jig in every corner of the box. This way I'm sure every corner is 90 degrees.

Thank you Bob38S and Zuma

Zuma
To keep things square, first, I'm trying to cut everything at 90° that means checking the TS blade alignment frequently.

Second, I'm playing with the clamps, it's difficult to explain with words but generally, I move the clamp on one side a little bit out or in till I get 90°.

For example, if all the parts are cut at 90° and the clamps are pressing exactly on the centerlines, the carcass or the frame will be at exactly 90°. But if one side, of the same clamp, is pressing on the centerline and the other side, of the same clamp, is not pressing at the centerline, the corner will not be at 90° because the clamp want to position itself parallel to the centerline of the parts.

To check for 90°, I'm using "Bar gauge" like on this post
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/checking-diagonals-45210

Please tell me if you could not understand, I will try to make some pictures.

I see that you live in Holland, it's close to Poland, you can pop-in and see my garage

Regards
niki

I found it, here is the pic that explanes it all
Attachment 41918

Perfectly clear Niki, by checking the longest diagonals (they should be even) you check the squareness of the carcas. Again a inventive and simple solution.

Kind regards,

Sander

Very nice clearly presented WIP, nike. I like the writing directly on the images; it makes everything so easy to follow.

How did you get the pictures directly in the post, instead of the usual 'thumbnail' view?

Thank you Zenwood

You have to open an account (free) in one of the picture hosting sites.

I'm using Photobucket because it's easy to post (one click and the link is "copied and than "Past" in the massage), but there are many others.

niki