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Thread: Pool Cues (Work in Progress).
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26th July 2006, 08:48 PM #76
Wednesday night....
Pict 1 - The turned down joint collars for the butt (longer) and shaft (shorter) and the butt collar. These are designed to strengthen high impact areas of the cue (and look pretty too !!)
Pict 2 - Time to make sure both tailstocks are on perfect centre, we age getting to the business end of making this cue.
Pict 3 - Time to chuck up the cue butt perfectly (or within at least one one hundred thousanth).
Pict 4 - I have turned down the tennon for the joint collar to go on. It is not threaded, the grooves are just for some "glue relief".
Pict 5 - The collar mocked-up. I still have to face off the tennon a little, so when I clamp it up in the lathe, I am applying pressure to the collar, not the tennon.
...cont....
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26th July 2006, 08:55 PM #77
....cont........
Pict 1 - The glued up joint collar. I have a concave live centre in the tailstock chuck which I use to apply slight pressure to the collar.
Pict 2 - An overall pict of the butt of the cue in the lathe. I don't want it sliding anywhere, and I don't want to damage it in any way. It is already as small as I want it to be (probably a bit smaller than I would like - looks like it might end up being a snooker cue, not a pool cue), and if I damage it in the chuck, it will mean more sanding (and thus the cue getting smaller still). This is why the lathe with 2 chucks, 2 tailstocks and numerous steady rests is ideal for cuemaking.
Cheers.............
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26th July 2006, 09:03 PM #78
Purpleheart, fantastic work!
I assume that you sell the cues? What sort of money do you ask because it seems that there is a lot of work, at least a lot more that I ever would've ever thought!Have a nice day - Cheers
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27th July 2006, 10:04 PM #79Originally Posted by Wood Butcher
$350 to $3500, the skys the limit. Cues in the states have sold in the 6 figure price range, but they are something else..............
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27th July 2006, 10:11 PM #80
Time to install the joint pin.
Pict 1 - The stainless steel joint pin, and the brass insert that will go into the shaft. The pin is 5/16" 14 tpi.
Pict 2 - You could make these pins from stock, but since they are available ready made.........
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27th July 2006, 10:18 PM #81
Work on the joint pin contunues.
Pict 1 - Making a larger centre hole with the centre drill.
Pict 2 - Drilling the hole.
Pict 3 - Cutting the thread. Don't try going down to Blackwoods and asking for a 5/16 14 tap. They will tell you they don't exist.
Pict 4 and 5 - These picts didn't come out as clear as I would have liked, but they show the recess I cut in the butt tennon, so the brass insert in the shaft will be a nice snug fit.
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27th July 2006, 10:20 PM #82You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
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i just noticed something, 141 attatchments to date. thats got to be some kind of record. well done and keep going.
S T I R L O
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27th July 2006, 10:25 PM #83
The joint pin is now in the cue. Threaded and glued in place with super strength Araldite. A little glue is good, too much and you can hydraulic the joint. The joint collar and the collet in the chuck help strengthen that area of the cue during this operation.
It is now time to use the dial indicator again to make sure the pin is (almost) perfectly central. If it is not, I can chuck it up in the tailstock chuck to help align it, or use the toolpost to push it over a bit while the glue dries.
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28th July 2006, 06:56 PM #84
Just a similar operation for the butt cap.
Turned down the tennon, trial fit, glue up using the toolpost to keep it in place.
Thats about the right amount of work for a Friday night.....now time for a purely medicinal frosty beverige.
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30th July 2006, 12:41 PM #85
The final weight of the cue is partly determined by the timbers used, but it can be fine tuned by inserting a weight bolt in the butt.
This picture shows the different size weight bolts, and the drills and taps used to install them.
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30th July 2006, 12:48 PM #86
Pict 1 - With the butt cap still oversize, I can chuck it up nice and tight for the drilling and tapping procedure.
Pict 2 - I like to drill and tap the hole deep enough to accomodate the largest bolt now, even though it may not be used. I would hate for someone to come back to me later, and ask me to make the cue heavier once the finish is on it.
Pict 3 - Having cut the thread.
Pict 4 and 5 - Time to machine a recess for the bumper.
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30th July 2006, 12:52 PM #87
Pict 1 - Test fitting the bumper
Pict 2 and 3 - Countersinking the weight bolt
Pict 4 - The weight bolt is in
Pict 5 - The bumper now in place..
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30th July 2006, 05:11 PM #88
Picts 1,2 and 3 - Well, the butt collar and joint collar have been turned down, and the cue has been sanded.
I have applied a couple of coats of CA to seal the cue.
It will then get signed, and the finishing process can continue.
Picts 4 and 5 - I think the extra night (well, an hour or so of actual time) to make the rings for the joints will be well worth it as they have come up nicely.
Now its time to start finish turning the shaft.
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30th July 2006, 05:29 PM #89
I love this thread...
Well done Purpleheart!Cheers Dy.|a.n.....
If it dont fit... get a bigger hammer!!
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30th July 2006, 05:56 PM #90
WOW:eek: fantastic work, have enjoyed reading with interest about your WIP Purpleheart. Thanks
Regards
Al .
You don't know, what you don't know, until you know it.
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