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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Perth, WA
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    Default Quick and dirty dovetailed box.

    I made this box yesterday. In all it took just over 2 hours from making the first saw cut to applying the first coat of shellac. It's not a great example of quality workmanship but I thought I'd post it here because of why and how I made it.

    Several months ago, I bought the DVD "Dovetail a Drawer" by Frank Klausz from the FWW website. It's a really good and instructive video. For those of you who haven't seen it, the title is self-explanatory. Frank makes a dovetailed drawer. However, his method is almost off-putting in that he uses no dovetail guides or jigs. He cuts the dovetails by hand and doesn't even mark a line for the main cuts - simply lines up his saw by eye and cuts away.

    It's fast and very expert. When I first saw the video, my immediate reaction was that I couldn't emulate Frank, I'd stuff up.

    Anyway, yesterday I decided to have a go. I made the box using only the tools shown in the third pic. No power tools at all - and no dovetail jigs or guides. You'll have to take my word for that because I didn't take any progress shots. But the standard of finished workmanship should tell you that it's a hand-made piece .

    I'm going to use the box in the workshop to hold sharpening gear: my LV jigs and some saw sets and files etc.

    This isn't intended to be a promotional piece for Darkside methods, by the way. I'm quite happy to use power tools where the application is appropriate. I just thought that some of you might be interested in seeing what the outcome was of a genuine experiment in trying to emulate a master woodworker.

    Col
    Driver of the Forums
    Lord of the Manor of Upper Legover

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  3. #2
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    Feb 2006
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    Lindfield N.S.W.
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    Default

    Col

    I like it. That box (with a real function to perform in your shed) is great.

    I have been working on a little box and freehanding the dovies which is nearing completion (despite a couple of disasters) and I takes my lid off to you.

    I reckon that you have shown how you can do something to a more than acceptable standard of workmanship without going over the top with technology by trusting your eyes and your tools.

    Greeenie on way

    Jeremy
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
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    Tolmie - Victoria
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    Thumbs up

    I take my hat off to you Col have a greenie if I can give you one.


    With very little extra effort you can mitre the corners too.
    - Wood Borer

  5. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wood Borer

    With very little extra effort you can mitre the corners too.
    Rob

    Good point! That's going to be next on the list then. Thanks.

    Col
    Driver of the Forums
    Lord of the Manor of Upper Legover

  6. #5
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    Jan 2005
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wood Borer
    With very little extra effort you can mitre the corners too.
    Don't listen to him Col, I've seen what he can do! He'll have you dovetailing the corners of the sheets when you make the bed if you let him.

    Nice box you made, I like it; they're great to have to keep the tools in. Time to drag out the Klausz video for another look-see I think.

    BTW, how are those full blind dovies coming along Rob?

  7. #6
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    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    Default

    Now start getting artistic.
    Cut each side of the dovtails at different angles
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna
    Now start getting artistic.
    Cut each side of the dovtails at different angles
    I did! That's what comes of not using a dovetail guide
    Driver of the Forums
    Lord of the Manor of Upper Legover

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Turramurra, NSW
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    Default

    Well done Col, excepting the saw over runs it looks generally better than mine, after hours of agonising, and every tool known to man (except a #8 and a 50mm Titan)

    Talking of #8's where Sheddy?
    Bodgy
    "Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams

  10. #9
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    Thanks for the compliments.

    I'm really glad I undertook this little exercise. I learnt a great deal from it. Probably the three main lessons

    1. You can fix up a fair bit of minor mis-alignment with a couple of good hand planes so don't worry over-much about getting the interfaces between sides lined up to perfection.

    2. Bodgy picked it in his post above - the saw over-runs. They're ugly and they spoil the finished job. The Lie-Nielsen and Adria backsaws I use cut really fast so the trick is to ease up big-time when you get near the line. With my crappy eyesight this means I have to take a lot more care.

    3. Frank Krausz's no-guide, no-jig method is great when the precision alignment of joints at opposite ends of a face is not critical (and this box is for workshop use). However, if I'm going to use dovetails on a presentation box, I'll measure and align the joints so they match. I'll use a guide, too, so there won't be any asymmetry of dovetail angles. For workshop boxes - and possibly for drawers, it may not be so important.

    Col
    Driver of the Forums
    Lord of the Manor of Upper Legover

  11. #10
    Join Date
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    Eden Hills, South Australia
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    Default

    Looks great to me, and a quick way to make darkside drawers. Two questions:

    1. Did you do pins first or tails first?
    2. Did you mark the depth of cuts with a marking guage?
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.

  12. #11
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    Nov 2003
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    Sydney
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    Default

    Let me handle this one.

    1.Frank cuts the pins first
    2.Frank marks the depth of cuts with a marking guage.

    Good work captain.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  13. #12
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    Jun 2004
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    Port Sorell, TAS
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    Default

    I really liked that method of FK's - saw it in a mag somewhere. Good for you for having a go!

    Den
    The only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde

    .....so go4it people!

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by zenwood
    Looks great to me, and a quick way to make darkside drawers. Two questions:

    1. Did you do pins first or tails first?
    2. Did you mark the depth of cuts with a marking guage?

    Wot Wongo sed.

    Before watching Frank's DVD, I have always cut the tails first but I elected to follow Frank's method as closely as possible.

    A couple of points emerge from this

    1. I reckon that cutting the pins first and marking the cuts for the tails directly from the pins would help when using very narrow pins. It would be easier to get the pencil or marking knife into the wide gap between narrow pins.

    2. If you want to cut two tail boards at once, you may find this a problem. Frank's freehand style means there will probably be slight differences between one set of joints and another.

    Col
    Driver of the Forums
    Lord of the Manor of Upper Legover

  15. #14
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    Feb 2005
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    East Bentleigh, Melbourne, Vic
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    Default

    Great Col! It's nice to be able to just pick up a couple of simple tools and just do the job.

    BTW I always go pins first (I've tried tail-first, but found it harder)

  16. #15
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    Default

    If anyone is interested, I can take a series of photos showing how to make the mitred through dovetails - by hand of course. Perhaps I will have some time on Sunday.
    - Wood Borer

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