Thread: Rescued Project - Jewellery Chest

My drawers are all sticky, (not the cabinet drawers but my pants) That is such a handsom pice. Simplistic design and the wood patterns and then the more you look at it, even more detail seems to develop. That is one fine looking piece. Thanks for showing me this pure eye candy. Almost to my sad eyes.

Nice work.

Originally Posted by Rocker

And where did you find that oak? Is it American white oak, or European?

Rocker

Silky?

Originally Posted by Gumby

Major, any chance of some info on how you go about doing that fine inlay in the top ? I'd love to see it.

Me too please.

Major, my comments are "all of the above".

Originally Posted by Gumby

Major, any chance of some info on how you go about doing that fine inlay in the top ? I'd love to see it. Don't have a video camera handy do you ?

me too

It's all been said above, Major. Stunning work!

Please don't post these in the Box Making Forum - your high standard will make us all look like mugs.

Originally Posted by Harry72

But I feel the 1/4 oak is a little too heavily featured, what are your feelings on this box? Would you change anything if your were to make it again?

I'm a bit like you Harry, I wouldn't of wanted such an 'in-your-face' grain pattern, but that's what the customer wanted.
If I was making it for me I would of added a Black Bean bead around the drawer fronts to break it up a bit.

Originally Posted by Dean

Give it to me to throw in the bin for you.

Thanks for that!... your bin or mine :confused:

Originally Posted by zenwood

I noticed the half-pins on the top and bottom edges of that open drawer are incredibly thin, going pretty much to zero at the apex of the dovetail. I'd be worried it might break off, or is it an optical illusion?
Anyhoo...beautiful stuff!

Zenwood you are correct! They were fine (with about a 1-1.5mm clearance) when I first made it. I didn't bother to finish the box or do anything to it for a couple of years & the drawers have swelled over time & poor storage conditions. After planing to fit there is less than .5mm of the half-pins left

Originally Posted by Rufflyrustic

I'm really interested in the feet, how did you attach them?

Wendy,
The feet are cut & mitred together & attached with 2 screws from the bottom. The bottom of the feet are covered with adhesive suede.

Originally Posted by Rocker

Is it American white oak, or European?

David,
It's Northern Silky Oak & came from a very old filing cabinet.... the whole thing was solid Silky Oak! While poorly made there was good timber in it

Originally Posted by Wardy

are the dividers in the draw a permanent fixture or can they be removed if the need arises?

The dividers are self supporting when the lining is put in. They can be removed but the lining has to come out as well. The lining is just 4mm ply covered with 5mm foam, black velvet & a tight fit. That's the reason of having a nice drawer bottom, incase the lining is taken out.

Originally Posted by banksiaman

Do you do anything to enhance the colour of the Black Bean? or is it that dark naturally?

The Black Bean is just sanded to P400 & sprayed with lacquer. It's naturally very dark.

Originally Posted by TTIT

Pretty average work Major!

THANKS ,TTIT

Originally Posted by Gumby

any chance of some info on how you go about doing that fine inlay in the top ?

Gumby,
It's just a 2mm router bit set at 2mm deep. To make the inlays I rip 2.5mm X 20-25mm pieces off a board & then thickness sand them to fit. I then rip these down to about 5mm strips on the band saw & then mitre the ends with a VERY sharp chisel & plane/scrape them flush with the top. I don't own a video camera otherwise I do a demo for ya..... honest, it's dead easy!
I see that Lee Valley have an even finer router bit at 1.5mm that I will invest in. Also gonna make up a few scratch blocks for some really fine (< 1mm) inlay experiments

What can I say Major that hasnt already been said, I just like all your work. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Originally Posted by MajorPanic

It's just a 2mm router bit set at 2mm deep.

But how do you get the nice sharp ends to the inlay channels: hand work?

I see that Lee Valley have an even finer router bit at 1.5mm that I will invest in. Also gonna make up a few scratch blocks for some really fine (< 1mm) inlay experiments

Does that mean you can't source these small router bits in Oz?

Here's some Zen'one they go down to 1.6mm!
http://www.apworkshop.com.au/html_ro...4X-sb-sf2.html

Or CMT at Carba's
http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/ind...htqo63ln6m6fa5