Thread: Rosewood & Silver Ash Hall Table

Superb, Major!

Very elegant design , stunningly well executed. Congratulations!

Originally Posted by BobR

Looks just great. What finish did you use.

Bob

The finished used was nitrocellulose lacquer. All the timber was sanded to 280 grit first & hand rubbed with 0000 steel wool between coats (3). The final finish was Mirotone Wax formulated for finishing lacquer & it was hand rubbed... it's silky smooth to the touch while still showing the grain ridges.

I'm not a fan of full gloss finish or grain filler although I've done this for customers in the past & it has it's place.

Originally Posted by Different

Brilliant as usual!!
How much would you charge for a job like that for a paying customer?

Ross

G'day Brilliant,

It's hard to say, as usually a job like this doesn't come out of one board.
But I'd value it at about $1.9k -$2.5K (upper end for Melbourne buyers) as a commission piece.
I've seen poorer designed pieces priced @ almost twice the price in Syd/Melb & I was told they sell. :eek: :eek:

G'Day Major.

Thanks for that explanation but as usual I did'nt ask the right question . In the side view Picture it seems that the ends of the top are thinner than the central part and I was wondering how you put the "taper" to the top ? I've put a copy of that picture in my file of projects I would like to do one day .
Peter

Lovely work, Major. I'm always envious of people who have the talent not only to make such a thing of beauty but who can design them first!
Well done.
Graeme

Originally Posted by Peter36

G'Day Major.

Thanks for that explanation but as usual I did'nt ask the right question . In the side view Picture it seems that the ends of the top are thinner than the central part and I was wondering how you put the "taper" to the top ? I've put a copy of that picture in my file of projects I would like to do one day .
Peter

Peter,

The taper is 230mm long and 12.5mm @ the thin end & the top is 25mm thick. It's really simple to do; I used a marking gauge to scribe a line 12.5mm down from the top on each end. Then used a marking knife to scribe a line across the underside of the top @ 230mm, I connected the scribed lines with another line on the BACK EDGE giving me a taper line to work to.
5 mins, for each taper, with a handheld power planer got me pretty close to my scribed line, then finished off with a hand plane.
All ya gotta do is keep checking with a square that you are still parallel across the board. Remember you don't have a scribe line on the FRONT EDGE to work to as it has been curved. All up the tapers took 30 mins from marking to fully sanded

Originally Posted by MajorPanic

G'day Brilliant,

It's hard to say, as usually a job like this doesn't come out of one board.
But I'd value it at about $1.9k -$2.5K (upper end for Melbourne buyers) as a commission piece.
I've seen poorer designed pieces priced @ almost twice the price in Syd/Melb & I was told they sell. :eek: :eek:

Worth every penny Inspired work!! Did you keep a record of the hours worked on the project? I like to do smaller pieces like that but always seem to get the big "practical" jobs.

Ross

Yo Ross,

I didn't keep a record of the hours but I'd say anywhere between 75-100 would be close.
I usually find smaller pieces take more time than larger ones, for one thing it's easier to spot the stuffups. :eek:

wow!!!! really sleak, nice design....

Nice work, I would gladly have it in my house.

The design, lines and elegance are just mind blowing, no matter what is the angle of the pic the top seems to be curled while it is flat (is it really ? )
I love how the top of the legs ends, it leaves some empty space and lighten the top part which balances perfectly with the thin end of the tapered legs.

It makes me think of a tree leave that delicately landed on some twigs on the ground.

Plain fantastic

MajorP, it was well worth the wait! I have been waiting to see this ever since your 'teasers" and you have not dissapointed! I love the balance and style. The curved fron apron looks just right. Did you curce the backside one as well? One qustion though, do you find that it has enough stability without any thingamajigs on the legs? My desk looks like it will need them due to the flexibility of the laminated legs--oh well! Once again, a great peice of wich you can surely be very proud.
Jacko

Originally Posted by jacko

MajorP, it was well worth the wait! I have been waiting to see this ever since your 'teasers" and you have not dissapointed! I love the balance and style. The curved fron apron looks just right. Did you curce the backside one as well? One qustion though, do you find that it has enough stability without any thingamajigs on the legs? My desk looks like it will need them due to the flexibility of the laminated legs--oh well! Once again, a great peice of wich you can surely be very proud.
Jacko

The first photo's don't show the end aprons so here ya go Jacko
I was pleasantly surprised with the stability of the table considering how narrow the end aprons are. The rear apron is not curved as it matches the rear edge of the top (saves a shedload of work too )

Beautiful work Major. I particularly like the use of inlay and would love to try and incorporate something similar in my next project.

However I have a few questons...........
1) how did you create the groove for the inlay?
2) the front inlay is curved, how is this done?
3) how do you design for timber movement? (ie. so that the inlay doesn't separate at the corners).

These are probably pretty fundamental questions so if anyone else knows I would be greatly appreciative.

Many thanks, Alex.