Thread: Rosewood & Silver Ash Hall Table

Originally Posted by alexg

Beautiful work Major. I particularly like the use of inlay and would love to try and incorporate something similar in my next project.

However I have a few questons...........
1) how did you create the groove for the inlay?
2) the front inlay is curved, how is this done?
3) how do you design for timber movement? (ie. so that the inlay doesn't separate at the corners).

These are probably pretty fundamental questions so if anyone else knows I would be greatly appreciative.

Many thanks, Alex.

Hi ya Alex,

To answer your questions, here we go;

1. The groove for the Silver Ash inlay was made using a 2mm router bit & it's about 4mm deep.
2. With a standard bearing guide/fence that comes with a router will follow any curved edge.
3. The inlay is a VERY tight fit from end to end & is in the narrow end of the board (it's only about 104mm long).

Timber selection was a major factor in the decision to inlay the Silver Ash. The Rosewood board was almost quater cut so timber movement will be minimal & it's a very stable timber to begin with.

Hope this helps

Hi Major .

I see youv'e been pretty busy since you posted the pic at the beginning of this thread - painted the wall red - looks good too .

Peter

major,
lots'o folks can put wood together. you, my friend have a rare eye for style though. i always think i'm an all-right woodie until i see what you knock together. wonderfull job!
-ry

Great job mate, must have taken a while.

Major,

As you know, I am making a smaller version of your table in jarrah. Here is a jig that I made up for cutting the mortices in the ends of the curved apron, which is clamped onto the convex former. The jig is clamped onto the end of the former. The stops, on either side of the jig, are positioned so as to yield a 30 mm long mortice. The fences, running across the jig are positioned so that the edge of the mortice is 5 mm from the convex face of the apron, when the MDF is butted against the inner edge of the end of the apron. The jig needs to be two-sided, since the mortices in the ends of the apron are not centrally positioned. They are closer to the bottom edge of the apron.

I reckon that once the former has been made up, and you have jigs for cutting the mortices in the aprons and legs, it should be possible to make your table in a lot less than 100 hours.

Rocker

Hi Major,

Just wanted to express my thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.

Alex.

hi,

is that laquer a pre-cat? what gloss level? how does it flow out of the gun and do you have much problems with it? want to change from my acid cat mirotone cheers.

Originally Posted by Rocker

Major,

As you know, I am making a smaller version of your table in jarrah. Here is a jig that I made up for cutting the mortices in the ends of the curved apron, which is clamped onto the convex former. The jig is clamped onto the end of the former. The stops, on either side of the jig, are positioned so as to yield a 30 mm long mortice. The fences, running across the jig are positioned so that the edge of the mortice is 5 mm from the convex face of the apron, when the MDF is butted against the inner edge of the end of the apron. The jig needs to be two-sided, since the mortices in the ends of the apron are not centrally positioned. They are closer to the bottom edge of the apron.

I reckon that once the former has been made up, and you have jigs for cutting the mortices in the aprons and legs, it should be possible to make your table in a lot less than 100 hours.

Rocker

Hi Rocker

The mortice jig looks really good, excellent idea being able to clamp it to the end of the former.
I reckon you are right, once you build the former & the other necessary jigs a table would take quite a bit less than 100hrs.
I think the Jarra will look fabulous!! are you going to put any stringing on the table? If so PM me.

Originally Posted by snappperhead

hi,

is that laquer a pre-cat? what gloss level? how does it flow out of the gun and do you have much problems with it? want to change from my acid cat mirotone cheers.

Yo Snapperhead,

The lacquer is not pre-cat & it's 30% gloss. The flow is quite good on it's own but I add 8-10% medium retarder & it's excellent.
I don't have any problems except for the bugs that are attracted by the sweet smell. Being a non pre-cat lacquer any touch-ups just melt into the previous layer.
For slight oversprays on objects you can't help but overspray I use a 50/50 mix of medium/slow retarder & thinners & just VERY lightly spray the affected areas & it just melts away