Thread: Shoe cabinet

I love the design and the look. Great work mate.

Looks great. Who exactly are the boys in blue??

Makita

Originally Posted by damienhazo

Hi,

I built it out of untreated solid beech, which is about the cheapest hardwood over here. I built a special jig to make the grids (a solid board over a bench-mounted Makita 3612 BR with a straight flute bit, etc.,.).
Damien

Are you saying that the grid in the doors was cut from a solid sheet of timber with a router? Would you please elaborate a little more on this aspect of the construction?

Originally Posted by damienhazo

I'm not saying German tools are racists...but they do tend to look down their noses at anything not green. The Japs have been making a strong show so there's a fair bit of competition from the boys in blue...

The German and the Japs.:eek:

Great looking cabinet

Originally Posted by damienhazo

Makita

I was thinking Bosch, but Makita is great stuff too....forgive a damn yankee.

Hi Damien, and welcome to the forum.

That's a very impressive shoe cupboard you have there. It looks fantastic!

I, too, am interested in hearing how you made the lattice for the doors.

cheers
RufflyRustic

Fantastic shoe cupboard, Damien - ideal that you can put them in there when wet, and with adjustable shelving, etc. - excellent design & it all looks great, too.

Cheers,

Jill

Okay... Explain how to make the grid/lattice work...
I'll do this in 2 parts so I can get around the image upload limitations...

JIG:
I made a jig that pushes the work piece towards the router bit - not paralell to it. Like a saw fence pushes a bit of timber over a blade to shorten it. I use the fence from my Metabo Tk 1256

Attachment 21637


The sled is made from two aluminium sliders that hold the fence. The fence's existing tape and stop block also play a part.

Attachment 21639

The bench mounted router is pushed up to the desired depth. I use a Trend depth measurer and can highly recommend it (or similar). The depth is (desired thickness/2).

Attachment 21638

LATTICE:
Run a board across the bit at desired spacing using the stop block. TIP: If the pass is proving too much work for bit or router, or if the work piece is too hard to hold because of the amount of stock being removed - do the first run with a thinner flute bit. DO NOT do a shallower pass! A smaller bit removes stock but leaves the leading edges in tact for the final run. If you try to do 2 runs with the same thickness at 2 depths, you will ultimately miss the positioning and end up with a step. Accuracy is important for this latice. Believe me - people are drawn to it, will run their fingers over it, and scrutinise it!

Attachment 21640


And then..... (Please go to next thread)

LATTICE:
Once the board has been run through, you will have a board with a bunch of channels in it. This is then run through the saw - along the grain this time - to achieve the desired thickness. TIP: Allow for a 1/2 mm extra if wood burn is occuring. You can then belt sand it off. Once the latice is glued, you don't want to be trying to sand between the holes! TIP: When cutting the sticks, the distance between the paralell fence and the blade can be tight - especially when trimming off the back to end up with (router depth x 2 = thickness). Lengthen the fence (if your bench has this feature) to go beyond the blade and feed only half through. Then turn the work piece over and cut the other half. You can then pull the work piece back out the front.

Attachment 21645

The result is a bunch of sticks with groves in them. If you have done this accurately, they will fit - with a bit of convincing - to make up a lattice. TIP: Lay a stick left and right - with their channels facing inwards - when setting up the pieces for glueing. It will make the initial distancing easier.

Attachment 21646 Attachment 21647

I hope this helps. Truth be told, I've got a better system planned but haven't got the time or means to build it.

Here's a nice example of a bathroom cabinet I built... (a bit of dovetailing along the back join can also be seen)

Attachment 21648



Damien

Another supper work Damien.

Very nice 45 deg., but so many holes in the doors (joking)

Very nice lattice and explanation.

It look like you have a tools shop behind the table saw.

BTW, as I know Makita is not "Made in Japan" nor Bosch is "Made in Germany".

niki

Originally Posted by damienhazo

The result is a bunch of sticks with groves in them. If you have done this accurately, they will fit - with a bit of convincing - to make up a lattice. TIP: Lay a stick left and right - with their channels facing inwards - when setting up the pieces for glueing. It will make the initial distancing easier.

Damien

You mean half lap joints made with a dado jig!

Nice work, I like the design.

Damien
Very nice shoe cabinet. It is excellent showing us the WIP pics. This is something I will do one day when the time becomes available.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Woody1