Thread: Suspended cabinet

Beautiful work Arron, a true heirloom.

As for the edge banding, I would have thought glue would be fine for something that small, but there is are many more informed people than me on the forum!

Anyway, well done

I like it a lot. I was impressed by the taper and turn you have on the legs. Tell us how you did that.

You might be critical of your work saying it isn't perfect but most jobs are like that. You make something learn more as you go along realise you could do it better or differently. Thats all part of the learning process. Greenies from me

Studley

Nice work Aaron

Like the choice of timbers

Keep up the good work

Jamie

What is the preferred way for these to be attached ?

There's a couple of different ways but I reckon the best is with dovetail keys. This only works if you're using a fairly thick molding though. You cut a sliding dovetail in the moulding then make some keys about 1-2" long. These screw to the cabinet sides and then you slide the moulding on. Glue it at the front only so that the sides can expand and contract.

Wow, Arron that is one gorgeous cabinet. Mate you've done it again.

Beautifull work Arron, well done... Especially like the tapered legs they are terrific

Hi Arron,

Lovely piece of furniture! I especially like the assymetrical drawer layout, and the working of oak with the cedar is a visual treat!
Welld one,

Very nice cabinet.


Al

Nice work Arron. I love the curve at the bottom of the legs.

Trav

That's a beautiful cabinet Arron. I reckon it's a good choice of timbers, & a very nice design.

Really nice Arron. I think that you are being too hard on yourself about the cabinet. The oak does contrast the red of the mahogany and cedar quite nicely.

Well Done!!

looks very nice, it must have taken a while!

Very elegant piece of work, Arron. Congratulations and well done! Something for the rest of us to aspire to.

Interesting comment about the dovetails in the drawers. Whilst you can choose to make a feature of them when the drawer face and carcase are in different timbers, in this case where you have used the same timber, there is a subtlety about the lack of visual contrast that is attractive in itself. If there is an obvious reason for the drawer fronts to be a different timber from the drawer carcase, then there is a reason for the visual contrast. However, if you use different timber simply in order to emphasise the dovetail joints and for no other reason then you might be over-emphasising them.

Col

Arron,

This is a lovely piece. The overall proportions give it a light and airy feel, and the contrasting drawers and dark handles give it just the right amount of visual interest. I think the oak drawer sides are fine visually: understated dovetails show a confident mastery of technique. The curve of the legs is nicely proportioned too. A very nice design.

One question: the piece being quite tall, does it tend to be tilted forwards when you open the doors or pull out a drawer? What kind of catch did you use on the doors?

About the edge banding: if it is true banding, you could inlay it with the grain aligned with the substrate so that movement is not a problem, and you still get the visual definition of the band. If it's a moulding, then the sliding dovetails mentioned by SilentC would be the ideal solution. Or you could cheat a bit by using a couple of countersink screws set into slots, then cover the screw heads with a second layer of moulding. Over time (many years I would think), such a joint would show more of a gap than the sliding dovetail because of the wear of the screw head on the wood.

Your description of the dark/light balance of technique sounds very satisfying.