Thread: TV stand cabinet, marquetry doors WIP

Marquetry or inlay? Either way, it's a lot of work and looking good so far.

Thanks WW. It's marquetry, as it's done with veneers which are then applied to the hardboard doors.
I'm using the double bevel method as taught by Silas Kopf. Mostly, I'm cutting on the scroll saw, but because of the height of the doors, I have to do some cutting by hand. Will post pics of the set-up.

It is wonderful.

This is very interesting. Quite a lot of details.

Beautiful.

I promised som pics of the processes involved, so here goes. Sorry things are out of order, I should have started taking pics from the start.
First, some of the gear I use:
If possible, I cut the shapes using a scroll saw, with the table set at an angle so that the bottom veneer drops in without a gap. The angle depends on the thickness of the veneers (about 2mm) and the width of the saw kerf. In this case, the angle is about 8 deg.
If the veneer is too large for the throat of the scroll saw I use a deep-throat fret saw with this shop-made box. With both saws I use a #2 blade. To put the blade through, I drill small holes in the veneers using a pin vice and a 0.8mm drill - I'll try to chase up a smaller drill.
Before gluing up, I like to have everything ready to go so I can get it done as quickly as possible. For this job, I'm using epoxy, as it gives plenty of time and is easily tinted. I use powder tints, so that when the glue's forced through any gaps it isn't too visible.

When using epoxy, it's essential that it's well mixed in the proper proportions. I measured it out in a teaspoon that I cleaned with metho between the resin & hardener. I like to have a small dish of metho and plenty of paper towels handy when using epoxy. I always use vinyl gloves with epoxy as it can cause dermatitis.

As each piece of the marquetry is cut, it is inserted and held in place with veneer tape on he back, which can build up a bit of thickness. If it gets too thick you need to remove and replace it with a single thickness or the bevel angle will be incorrect.
After the picture is completed, it is covered with a single thickness of veneer tape on the front, and all the tape on the back is removed. This can be done with a scraper, or by damping it and peeling it off. I then let the panel dry between several sheets of newspaper, held flat by a sheet of laminate.
The glue must be thoroughly mixed. First, I mix it completely, then and the pigment and mix it completely again, to be sure, to be sure.
First, I cover the area of the picture and lie glad wrap over it so that I can force it into any gaps. Then I remove the glad wrap and completely cover the panel with a thin layer of glue. Likewise, the hardboard ground and the back veneer receive a coat of glue, and are assembled. I use thick sheets of laminate to even out the pressure on the assembly, and clamp firmly to spread the pressure.

I'm going to enjoy watching this. Although marquetry is something I can't even imagine being able to do neatly, just the thought of doing the individual leaves on that maiden hair is enough to send me batty! Looks great though.

After yesterdays glue-up had set, I trimmed the edges and put the picture side of the panel a couple of light passes through the drum sander, just to flatten it. Later, both sides of all four panels will be put through to bring them to the correct thickness.
I also started on door panel 2. First, I made a tracing of the picture I'd chosen, then traced a carbon copy onto the background panel. You could just stick the picture onto the background, but it's better if you can see the background.
The veneer that's going to make the part of the picture is taped in position on the back of the background. The order of cutting pieces is important.the picture is built up by inserting the rearmost pieces first, followed by the foreground pieces. The background pieces are cut oversize where they overlap foreground pieces.
A small hole is drilled through both pieces on the boundary. If possible, drill the hole where it will later be replaced by a foreground piece, otherwise at a junction of two pieces. Fit the blade through the hole and you're ready to cut.
It's important to cut in the correct direction. If you get it wrong the insert will have a gap all round it. If you're cutting with the teeth towards you, you need to cut counter-clockwise, so that the underside of the veneers is larger than the top.
When the insert is cut out, be careful not to lose it, especially if its a very small piece. Insert it in the panel and tape it in place with veneer tape on the back. Very small pieces tend to come out and get lost, so prevent this by putting a smear of PVA glue on them.
Repeat the process of cutting and inserting pieces to build up the picture.

At least you will have something decent to look at while the telly's on. Looks great.

After cutting out all the stalks & leaves for this door, it's easier to form the flower separately. I started with a large piece of wood of the sort I'm using for the centre of the flower, and cut each individual half-petal to fit into it. Eventually, the petals will surround a small centre piece. It's easier to do it this day than to manoeuvre the full panel while cutting small pieces. It's easier to make the whole flower with scrap around it, then cut it into the panel. When doing this, remember that this time, the flower will plug into the background, so the cut has to be done in a clockwise direction.

When the picture is finished, the front is taped up with veneer tape, and the built up tape on the back is removed.

After all the door panels are glued up with veneers on both sides, the oversize veneers are trimmed to the size of the panels. The picture sides are then put through the drum sander to smooth the pictures, which are then sanded to 800 grit with an ROS. The panels are then flipped and sanded to uniform thickness in the drum sander, followed by the ROS.
The panels are then cleaned, given a coat of shellac and resounded to 800. Then it's time to fit them. The hardboard panels had previously been dressed to fit exactly the front of the cupboard; I expect to shave a little from them so they will open & close freely. I'll be using knife hinges on the outside doors, and Soss hinges between the inside and outside doors.

Alex, that is so beautiful.

Alex, that is really wonderful work. Thank you for the very detailed explanation of the technique. I have had this on my To Do list for sometime and this may be just the kick start I need to begin.
Really beautiful.