Thread: The Universe is a Wonderful Place :)

Can't wait.

I've never used the stuff, but from what I see on this BB it's beautiful.

What does it smell like?


Ben.

That's a beautiful board Major. Are you going to keep the live edges?

-ryan

Hi ya Gents,

Rosewood has a deep rich sweet smell which is unforgettable. This board has been in storage for about 5 or 6 years & yet it still has a noticeable perfume just handleing it.

The design for the hall table is slick & contemporary so there will be no wane edges for this one

Quit talking and start working so we can see the finished product.

Originally Posted by MajorPanic

The design for the hall table is slick & contemporary so there will be no wane edges for this one

Major ...

Don't know if you have any fixed designs yet for your hallway table, but here are a couple of pics of a contemporary table I made a couple of years ago -- following my philosophy that things you make yourself ideally shouldn't look like things that can be readily bought in a shop. This one is made from selected flooded gum (rose gum), and the truncated corners / 45 deg. theme matches the octagonal entry-way of my house. Not many hallway tables have 6 legs.

Qw

Originally Posted by QldWoodie

Major ...

Don't know if you have any fixed designs yet for your hallway table.................
Qw

Well QldWoodie

In actual fact I have & very contemporary.... I've had the design in my head for about 3 years & now we have the place to put a 2000mm hall table, the details are now complete

2000mm wide X 350mm deep X 900mm tall with a laminated curved front apron.
I'll do a mock up to see if I need a 3rd set of legs but here's hoping

Originally Posted by MajorPanic

I'll do a mock up to see if I need a 3rd set of legs but here's hoping

I wouldn't expect so. Certainly not for strength reasons. My hallway table only had the extra legs because I had truncated the front corners and not the back corners. An alternative for me would have been similar to what you propose .... that is, have the table top cantilever over the ends by 6 inches or so - but my hallway table wasn't long (wide) enough to do this and still look good. With your table 2 metres long I would say good design pretty much requires you to have the ends overhanging quite a bit as per your design.

Q: How thick will your table top be? And, if you are using just one piece of timber, plain sawn, for the top are you concerned about movement and/or the timber opening up?

FYI: I had a lesson about using wide boards about a year ago. I had a 300mm wide board of silver ash 30mm thick (bought from Moxons here in Brisbane) that had been kiln dried which I cut down the middle to make two 150mm wide boards. I just happened to place the two boards adjacent to each other on the floor of the shop, and was amazed that within 15 minutes of cutting the previous straight saw kerf had opened up to two convex surfaces apart by about 2 inches over a 3 metre length. Presumably residual stress that would have opened up over time. Cupping is something that everyone is alert to, but ever since then I have been particularly wary of wide boards from a splitting/residual stress point of view unless they are quartersawn.

Qw

Originally Posted by QldWoodie

Q: How thick will your table top be? And, if you are using just one piece of timber, plain sawn, for the top are you concerned about movement and/or the timber opening up?
Qw

The table top will be 25mm thick & appro 350mm wide so I don't foresee any problems with splitting.
I've had no problems with boards up to 800mm wide as I was responsible for drying the timber. I wouldn't trust ANY commercial timber retailer to kiln dry timber for you!!
Learn a bit about drying timber and ask intelligent questions if you must trust others to dry your timber.
I try to buy timber in log form & have it milled to my specs. I usually air dry it in stack form. If I need a pack dried in a hurry I get the Forestry Dpt to dry it in their Solar Kiln which is MUCH kinder on the timber.

Hi Major ....

Originally Posted by MajorPanic

I try to buy timber in log form & have it milled to my specs. I usually air dry it in stack form. If I need a pack dried in a hurry I get the Forestry Dpt to dry it in their Solar Kiln which is MUCH kinder on the timber.

Thanks for this .... I am in the process of getting a quantity of beefwood from a friends property in Central Qld, and I am looking around for a suitable miller (could be in CQ, or could be in Sth Qld). The last two logs I had milled with a Lucas Mill, but these portable mills are not the best for cutting to highlight the medulary rays.

I'd appreciate any further advice you can give (names of millers, cutting sequence for logs with strong medullary ray structure e.g. silky oak).

Thanks

Qw