Thread: Fishtank Light Cover - Redgum Burl Ends WIP

First thing to do was to rip the burl off cut into approximately the right shape.

I used tape for the cut line as it is impossible to draw a line on a burl surface - it worked okay

I tried smoothing the burl with a handplane as little fella was asleep - this was way too arduous - so I waited then burn't some electrons on the planer

I made a simple jig for each burl end for the router to follow to create the desired recess.

I first used a smaller 12mm x 20mm rebate bit to minimise tearout with the cutter along the recess perimeter. Then I followed up with the big ugly cutter and a lot of care - scarey thing it is.

I used reinforced string tape on the burl to help keep it together as the router can grab and tear the burl at any time especially near the end of the cut as the cutter exits the timber.

I am having some problems with my computer so I am uploading small pieces as I tried a big load and lost the lot plus a heap of typing.

Anyway - I am currently at this stage.

You can see in one pick the boards i will use. I won't do a "V" groove as I did with the base as this is a smaller piece I want smooth lines and no grooves.

I did have to clean up the end caps with a chisel to tidy up the routing.

I have the opposite end cap yet to router into shape. It has a bark inclusion but not bothered by this. It will add to the feature of the redgum burl. The base has the faults shown and left in place and it all works okay so the top cover will do the same.

I am intending to seal the encap burl with Sikens DWD and not finishing it with burnishing oil as I did the base. As I want to literally seal the timber as the top is near the water and subject to some moisture form the tank aerator bubbler and splashing fish - so a seal coat seems prudent.

Anyway more to follow as it come together.

Informative and interesting story so far Teejay - keep it coming.

I managed to spend today at this project and made some more headway - not fast but steady and happy with the results.

First up I used the router to rip out the timber on the second endcap. That is one scarey router bit. I know I won't use it like this again unless I have a large and remote method of holding the piece being routered as it is so big and using it like a rebate bit it is too grabby. Only a couple of small bites were unnerving on this small piece of timber.

It did remove the timber efficiently though. Again I did router the line along the cut edge with a smaller bit along the template to give a neater edge cut then followed with the big ugly router bit.

I did have to fill some of the timber both on the burl end caps and planks with resin.

I glued the timber planks together and clamped them. Awaiting the glue to set now.

Another day at the workshop

As some of the wood was a banana I had some problem with a joint opening up. I re-glued it but didn't want to wait 24 hours before I could remove the clamps and hope it was stuck - so I used the pocket hole drill bit and put a long screw across the joint. I did leave the joint for 2 hours before doing this - it has worked.

Next was to sand the panels smooth to 320 grit.

And plane the edges square along the jointing faces.

Then to setup the jointer to put a bevel along the joining edges at a bevel to match the existing light cover I am putting this over. The template was helpful.

I then made up a small jig to support the Domino so I could accurately support and align the machine to get the correct angle at the joint. I clamped this in place at each or the 5 or so dominos..

I have the two long sections glued together at this stage - in hind sight I really wish I had made a jig to allow me to clamp tightly this long joint. As the faces are not square the Bessey clamps had very limited effect and although I could close the joint snug and tight; to keep it there was another matter without effective clamping. Live and learn - it looks fine but a little more preparation would have helped.

I will do some more tomorrow after work hopefully.

I need to next route a curved edge on the lower face, sand smooth the cover again and then I can finish the assembly.

This is taking longer than I expected but it should look okay.

Firstly run a jointer along the edge to give a nice straight line.

Then finished the edge with a 20mm rounding off router cutter. I prefer to do this outside and let the stuff fly about rather than try and contain it in the shed and clear up afterwards - think my neighbours like the sound of a router at 10 000rpm too

I used Kreg pocket hole jig to connect the ends to the boards - I clamped these securely in place with Bessey clamps then locked them in with the screws and glue of course.

The boards and ends came together quite nicely with minimal adjustment during trial fitting.

I then wanted a notch put into the ends to allow the timber to sit upon the tank glass edge. Plan A was to cut a groove with tenon saw and then router out the waste - but I changed my mind; as the last thiing I wanted was a stray router bit at this final stage.

It was a lot easier to control the chisels and take my time. Routers are a bit wild on this burl grain when it strikes timber grain in every direction plus varying hardness as well - so I dare not risk a skip-jump and chunk from a completed piece.

I finished the timber with a water based poly - satin finish.

And finally