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Thread: How would you hide this pipework
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16th March 2021, 03:07 PM #1
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How would you hide this pipework
Hi. As many of you will have gathered from my many questions, I’m building a house. My latest problem is that there is a kitchenette downstairs, which is substantially completed and has worked out rather nice but in the corner there is this horror!
C1DEB87D-4502-4C0F-9245-35FE3B3F7542.jpeg
This is pipe work for the main kitchen and butlers pantry upstairs, and I think a rooftop vent. I would have preferred this on the outside of the house - like any other house - but the architect insisted he didn’t want anything spoiling the lines and as this was supposed to be hidden behind the fridge I thought it would be OK. Unfortunately, the plumber couldn’t read the plans and set it 200 mm too far forward (one of several mistakes) so now the fridge won’t fit and the kitchenette has had to be redesigned. Plus we have this ugly thing in the corner.
So does anyone have a bright idea what we can do with it. Something that not just hides it but makes the space useful is what I want.
I know I could just hide it behind some framing (bulky) or melamine cabinetry (never looks quite right) but then it’s all pain and no gain. Surely there is something useful I can make it into. I thought maybe fold down ironing board plus ‘pantry pullouts’ ????
I should point out the oven is now opposite the pipework (you can just see the handle) so I can’t take much space or else it will be awkward if not dangerous when removing hot items from the oven. Therefore any solution has to be skinny - like 300mm projection at the max.
Cheers
ArronApologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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16th March 2021 03:07 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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16th March 2021, 05:22 PM #2
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Well that is a pipe stack. Architect-1 plumber -1. The only suggestion is to box it out and plaster, perhaps some shelves, as you suggested. Maybe a wine rack out of Tas oak, floor to ceiling style pigeon holes.
Thankfully our pipe stack we hid at the back of a laundry chute, it took some major major bending of the architect’s arm to put the laundry underneath the master bedroom and include a laundry chute with a pipe duct at the back, I think it is because it wasn’t his idea, it’s been 10 years but I will get over it
eventually.
Cheers
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16th March 2021, 05:32 PM #3
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Get the plumber to fix his mistake.
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16th March 2021, 06:02 PM #4
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I think the plumbers mistake is set in concrete.
Originally Posted by TermiMonster
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16th March 2021, 08:51 PM #5
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Yes, it is. Originally Posted by Wrongwayfirst
Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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16th March 2021, 10:55 PM #6
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Box it in, mate. That's all you can do.
mick
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17th March 2021, 07:01 AM #7
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Because there’s an IO in there, there really should be an access panel put in the closure to get to it later, otherwise if there’s a choke, you’ll be pulling it all apart uneccisarily
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17th March 2021, 12:19 PM #8
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Slide in slide out bottle storage (wine rack). This allows access to the inspection opening in particular and the complete stack in general.
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17th March 2021, 02:20 PM #9
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Paint it red and call it art?
OR
Paint it brown and add a few leaves and a fake pot and call it an indoor plant.
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17th March 2021, 05:21 PM #10
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This video may help
Covering Exposed Pipes in Finished Basement or Room - YouTubeLast edited by redpen; 17th March 2021 at 05:21 PM. Reason: Forget the youtube video
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20th March 2021, 05:00 PM #11rrich Guest
You have two problems, concealment and access. Above all you will need to maintain access through a panel to the "T" pipe.
First, no nails. The framing structure won't be sturdy enough to support hammering.
You are going to build a frame to support wall board. In addition to the obvious, get some of the things in the pasta won't soften thread. Use these goodies to hold one by two furring strips to the wall board in the walls, ceiling and floor.
Plan to put a 2 x 4 in the corner diagonal from the existing corner behind the pipes. Here you will have to use some sort of metal brackets in both the ceiling and floor. If the floor is as I expect, concrete, you can still use the pasta that won't soften anchors but use stainless steel screws. Be sure to isolate the steel bracket from the concrete with rubber gasket/washer material.
Install the 1 x 2 furring strips on the wall, ceiling and floor. These furring strips are where you will anchor the wall board. Build a frame for your access panel. To attach the panel I would use a couple of those magnetic cabinet door latches. Use appropriate cabinet door handles for removal of the panel. My preference for the panel is a smooth Masonite or plywood. Hard board would also be acceptable.
Have fun, and you are now obligated to post WIP and final pictures.
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