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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Central Coast, NSW
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    Default please help me with this simple invention

    Not to do with woodwork but I’m posting it here because there are more practical people here then anywhere else I know.

    What I want to make is a tube somewhere about 40 to 70 mm diameter and about 1000mm long, with many very thin diameter tubes inside. Imagine a 1 mtr piece of poly pipe packed full of drinking straws - that would be perfect except drinking straws are only 300mm long and I want them to go the full 1000mm length.

    How would I make this? Any ideas ? Obviously what I need is very long tubes with of thin internal diameter with very thin diameter walls.



    Expanding on this for those still interested. This is for fishing. Specifically for fishing for larger fish like kingfish and jewfish from the shore. It sits beside the rod which is in a rod holder and it’s purpose is to allow the fish to pick up the bait and feel NO resistance until it has swum for a few (10 or 20, say) metres. At the end of those 10-20 metres the line goes taught and the fish comes up against the drag (which is pliers-tight), turning the circle hook in its mouth and embedding it.

    To finish the contraption off requires a spike at the bottom for pushing into the wharf or sand, and an adjustable clip at the top to prevent line spilling out inadvertently. line is pulled out of the rod and loaded into this contraption, which is the purpose of the very thin inside tubes, line is pushed into each one and they guarantee a tangle-free release (of that part I’m confident, as I use it on other rigs).

    For those not experienced with fishing for target species such as those mentioned, the issues needing to be overcome are that:
    1. Big fish are wary and hard to hook because they tend to spit the hook immediately they feel some resistance
    2. Big fish tend to swallow baits slowly, usually only taking it fully into their mouths after swimming off for a few meters.
    3. You don’t strike circle hooks, you allow the line to tighten naturally, and the hook rotates in the fishes mouth and embeds itself in the corner of the mouth. This works better if you allow the hookup to occur before you pick up the rod.

    Any help appreciated
    Cheers
    Arron
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Mexico. Actual Mexico not Victoria.
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    Default

    Arron

    I get what you're trying to achieve.

    Why don't you just use a handline after the rod? I reckon it'd be much simpler.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Feckit View Post
    Arron

    I get what you're trying to achieve.

    Why don't you just use a handline after the rod? I reckon it'd be much simpler.
    Yeah, maybe.

    I expect you’re meaning a handcaster, one of these Jarvis Walker Handcasters - DINGA Online .

    I’d like to try both and see which one works best.

    I’ve had a lot of experience designing similar solutions and my preconception is that the handcaster will have a tiny, residual tendency to go awry when things get panicky, plus I think it will be difficult to keep the line on the handcaster when wind, waves and dogs are thrown in the mix. I have used the thin tubes solution and it never failed to release the line clean and tangle free - though I was limited to conventional drinking straws and therefore only about 4 metres in total.

    I will keep rethinking both solutions. Build and test, build and test .... it never works like you think it should.

    Cheers
    Arron
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
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    4,474

    Default

    If I understand correctly I don't see any huge problem piece of stainless pipe fled with smaller stainless pipe (6mm) will not be cheap, or you do the same thing with acrylic pipe and tube

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    ACT
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    84
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    Default

    Hi,
    Check out the irrigation isle at the hardware shop, you may find something.
    Regards
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

  7. #6
    rrich Guest

    Default

    Tubing on a roll? Straighten it with hot water?

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    275

    Default

    I would be worried about chaffing the braid as it is pushed into the tubes, you would want very smooth edges.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,772

    Default

    Have you tried a baitrunner reel? I have a couple of Shimano Baitrunners and I think they are great reels. Even just fishing with an open bail should provide bugger all resistance.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
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    Default

    A couple of good points raised.

    Not stainless steel - too expensive and too heavy. Preferably lightweight, cheap, plastics.
    Yep, maybe I can find something on a roll in the hardware store, and maybe among the micro irrigation products.
    And the use of softer plastics prevents chaffing.

    Here’s an example of the same concept used for a different use. This was actually the core of a rather tricky device that goes inside a float. One loop of nylon is pushed up each drinking straw using a plunger. The straws simply prevent tangling by keeping the loops separate. A rubber band was all that was needed to prevent the nylon from spilling out inadvertently.

    Tomorrow if I get time I’ll be making a prototype solution using a handcaster and some type of home-made clip. It should be interesting.

    Cheers
    Arron

    3632CCC3-D41D-4545-BAA2-3247BAB6CD8E.jpg
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Central Coast, NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    Have you tried a baitrunner reel? I have a couple of Shimano Baitrunners and I think they are great reels. Even just fishing with an open bail should provide bugger all resistance.
    Yep, I do use baitrunners but I only have small models. love them. When I bought my last big reel I was tossing up between a conventional reel and a baitrunner and I stupidly opted for the conventional.

    They’re not ideal for this job though because you need to attend the rod to crank it into gear at just the right time. I want the fish hooked and pulling line against the drag before I touch the rod. I so often see people using circles and pulling hooks out of fish’s mouths because they are used to fishing j hooks and old habits come back when the thrill of a big fish takes hold. I do it myself too.
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
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    71
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    1,301

    Default

    Would a sheet of Corflute (as used in election campaigns) with a Stanley knife cut in every second core to allow the sheet to be rolled up into a cylinder work?. I would imagine it would look like a bunch of straws. You could try softening the sheet with hot water to make it roll up easier. I think I have seen Corflute at Bunnings in the building materials aisle. Screen printing or sign writing supplies would be a good place to source some material.
    I received some from a traditional printing place years ago for use as set panels in a school eisteddfod the kids were involved in. Yours truly ended up making the frames to attach the Corflute, and some very talented kids and Mums did the set painting.

    Alan...

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    I'd look at getting the smallest poly tube that you can find, probably 12mm, pieces a metre long will give you 2m each, arrange them in a bundle, after deburring the ends, and glue together with Super Glue.
    If you wanted to keep them together to withstand abuse, get some marine ply offcuts and drill the holes in the required pattern and slide over the bundle.
    To load the tubes use a bit of sanded dowelling with a notch in the bottom.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
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    63
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    13,359

    Default

    Googling "long drinking straws" immediately came up with a few possible results. One Aussie site had 70cm straws @ $3 per 50... (Ignoring postage, etc.)

    28" (71cm) seems to be lthe longest readily available, but I'm dead certain that when I went hunting for straws for a project I had some time ago I came across 1.5m lengths as well as a couple of sites that handled custom sizes...
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    Nsw
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    64
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    Default

    How about heat shrink ? It comes in numerous sizes and is soft and is available in those sort of lengths

  16. #15
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Central Coast, NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    Googling "long drinking straws" immediately came up with a few possible results. One Aussie site had 70cm straws @ $3 per 50... (Ignoring postage, etc.)

    28" (71cm) seems to be lthe longest readily available, but I'm dead certain that when I went hunting for straws for a project I had some time ago I came across 1.5m lengths as well as a couple of sites that handled custom sizes...
    I think that’s the perfect solution. 700mm is near enough to 1000.

    Oddly, I googled ‘long drinking straws’ too, but only came up with Overseas sellers. I guess I did something wrong.

    I also found out that party shops also have them, apparently for something to do with balloons.

    I can now set out to make a drinking straw and a handcaster solution - and see which one I prefer. Total cost $2.99 plus postage, as I have everything else.

    Anyway, perfect.

    Cheers and thanks
    Arron
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

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