Thin Strips on TS

[Knurl]

Help wanted for Triton Table Saw.

All the jigs I have seen for thin-strip ripping on the TS require a mechanism for precisely moving the FENCE towards the blade, so that you're always safely ripping stock away from the blade without trapping the offcut. BUT, for Triton moving the fence and keeping it parallel to the blade is a rather fiddly and time consuming exercise if you need to do it many times.

The only way I could figure it out was to pack the offcuts against the fence after I cut them but I get progressive errors in the thickness as more "spacers" are used.

Who knows a jig that works with a fixed fence?

BTW it's the same problem I encountered when I wanted to cut even feathers in a featherboard - for each cut, I had to move the Triton fence a precise distance and it's jut not good at doing that. That's why I'm looking for a method of moving the stock.

[munruben]

When ripping thin pieces of stock on the Triton I leave the fence in the desired position and use a push-stick to push the narrow piece past the blade. I know its a no no but at least for repeat cuts I get uniformity of thickness in the pieces. I have ripped quite thin strips like this successfully. I am sure there will be a better way and someone will let us know how to do it.

[niki]

Hi Dave

I posted it long time ago but the pictures disappeared (all the Photobucket album disappeared).

So here it is with pics that will stay in the forum

niki
Attachment 53552Attachment 53553Attachment 53554Attachment 53555Attachment 53556

[niki]

And another 4 pics
Attachment 53557Attachment 53558Attachment 53559Attachment 53560

[Ausworkshop]

Knurl,
I've got the triton compact, I know the problem, very frustrating to re adjust the fence and get it parallel.

I just noticed this in an old thread from another member - Barry White
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip040319wb.html

very helpful if you can understand it from the photos

[Black Ned]

Answer lies in ShopNotes Magazine Vol. 16 Issue 94
at your newsagent Now.
Just bought one.

[Papillon]

Hi Dave, your query got me thinking (had to happen eventually I guess) so I went down the shed and came up with this contraption. It's easy to make, must be, I did it and should give accurate repeatable results. I haven't included specs cos I built this one from whatever I could find lying around and I would suggest better materials if you plan to keep it long term.


It's basically a sliding "T" square that dogs onto the side of your saw table and is clamped in place. Use it to locate the fence, lock the fence, make your cut, unlock the fence, adjust and repeat.

Attachment 53645

Bottom View

Attachment 53646

Cut/router a neat rebate for the for the vertical bar of the "T" so that it can be accurately moved in and out making sure that the sliding part is slightly proud of the slotted housing so it can be clamped firmly in place once set. This rebate is the most critical tolerance, it must be neat enough that there is no slop but not so tight that you can't adjust the "T". I would suggest a coat of wax in the rebate and on the bottom and sides to help this happen, but do not wax the top of the "T" or it might not grip properly.

This pic show the rebated slot and the interference on the clamp bar.

Attachment 53647

I would make the sliding bar more substantial than the piece of 40 X 6 mm used in this one to reduce flex and increase accuracy. That piece was lying around and this is a prototype after all. It would also be good to replace at least one of the lock down screws in the clamp bar with a 1/4" coach bolt and thumb screw for ease of use, but I don't have one lying around at the moment.

You will see in the first 2 pics I removed the bevel guides from back of the fence, you only have to loosen the 4 screws and the guides slide straight off. This gives a nice straight edge on the fence for accurate setting.

All you need to do then is work out the increments for the cut you need, do a test cut and you're away.
e.g. want a 1mm strip, saw blade is 3mm thick adjust the jig in 4mm.

There are a number of places you can use a ruler, vernier, etc on the jig to measure the adjustment accurately.

Well there it is, my very first post pictures and all. Phew!

I hope it it is a help, if I have forgotten anything just holler.

Cheers Rob P

p.s. if you're wondering about the triton bench top on the wheel barrow,. I don't use the top at the moment cos my wc2000 is going though an evolutionary process to hopefully remedy some of the less lovely aspects of owning an orange saw bench, but that's another story entirely. (So far, so good)

p.p.s. My sincere thanks to all the forumites who have unknowingly inspired me to try and get better at this sawdust making caper, and for the massive volume of knowledge which is so freely handed out to any who take the time to read it.

[Knurl]

Robert you are a clever fellow. That will work for me and is a solution that (provided the T-square is square and the trench at 90 degrees) will be accurate. I might inset a metal rule next to the trench so I can acurately move the fence.

I might also make the support wider so I have less play.

Only one worry: accurate movement of the fence by pushing it with teh t-square may mean a non-parallel fence and error of mor ethan 1mm at either end. It is after all a heavy fence.

Nicci's idea is also very good. Thanks to these suggestions I think I might give it a go and see how it works in practice. Pics to follow...

Robert, welcome to the Forum and let's hope you continue to be as inventive as this. Thanks again.

[Knurl]

Thanks also to the other guys. I have the Shop Notes and will check out their suggestion. It really shows the value of this Forum.


Please support our sponsors like Neil and Ubeaut.

[Knurl]

Checked the latest Shop Notes and find that the recommended jig (for large pieces) still moves the fence, rather than the stock.

After going through all the suggestions I still want a imple jig that moves the stock towards a fixed fence and not vice versa. Micheal's idea moves the fence, but what about replacing the Triton fence with a new T-square fence?

Doesn't Michael's jig look like an Incra fence? I could add micro-adjustment, too!

[Knurl]

I finally found this solution online and it fits the bill and is easy to make.
http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/main/wb291-jig01.html
Watch the video.
My only (minor) concern is whether the thin strip can still get trapped between the guide and the blade...but it doesn't seem so, as per the demo..

Your views? Will it suit my Triton WC2000?

Can we put this thread to sleep?

[Papillon]

Good one Dave, that should do exactly the job you want with no mucking about at all other than the initial setup. I reckon I might make one myself, it's heaps better than my suggestion, and I can't see any reason it won't work on the trusty triton.

Cheers,
Rob P.

[Ramps]

Knurl
I had the same issue and solved it with a zero tolerance "top" to the triton and the fenced fixed to 6mm.

The only moving was the feather board that kept the timber pressed against the fence. I had a feather board pressing the timber down as well but found it not necessary for the strips I was cutting so ended up taking it off.

See the pics in the strip-built canoe thread that I did a tear or so ago ... simple but it worked well ... would recreate it when doing my kayak ... one day.

Itwas essential that all strips were as close as to each other so the fixed fence was a good idea.

I can post some more pics if these aren't clear enough

[Sprog]

I finally found this solution online and it fits the bill and is easy to make.

My only (minor) concern is whether the thin strip can still get trapped between the guide and the blade

Your views? Will it suit my Triton WC2000?

Nikis jig does exactly the same job.
No, the strip does not get trapped between the jig and the blade.
Yes it will suit your Triton.

[Knurl]

Sprog,
I always love Niki's jigs but there are two issues that are not quite what need:
1. Niki needs to adjust his roller-guide after each cut, slowing him down.
2. Niki's push block will only suit one strip-thickness. He needs a whole new pusher for each thickness, because it gets trimmed by the blade.

I'm a great fan of Niki's work but the American jig suits me better.