Thread: Compass plane

Another view, on its side. Some of the shavings behind indicate a problem, fouling on the lower portion of the wedge as they enter the plane. Tuning of this part can be frustrating so I work on regardless, just have to hook out some jams occassionally.

Cheers,

Here's a shot of the curve I just planed, with a straight edge over for reference. The curve extends 300mm or a touch over, and the bottom of the curve is 25mm below the original surface. To hog out a whole lot at the start, I tend to start on the corners of the board, which leaves a narrower ridge through the centre. This is easier to remove than a pass over the full width. I repeat that process as I go down, and its surprising how much material can be removed. It also acts as a reference line, like following a curved chamfer down, even more important with the blade leaving contact if concentration wanders. Bandsaw and drum sander anyone?!

See ya.

Really nice job, Andy!

Any idea how long it took to make?

Thanks, Mike

Good looking little animal.

Obviously works well too.


I know all about the wrist trick, I ended up doing a bed head board with 2 concave, 1 convex curve with the same little compass plane. Amazing how nice it all looks when it's finished on one pass.

(I did rough it out with the router though...)

I think that Arron might have some 'splaining to do real soon.

Originally Posted by Schtoo

Good looking little animal.

Obviously works well too.


I know all about the wrist trick, I ended up doing a bed head board with 2 concave, 1 convex curve with the same little compass plane. Amazing how nice it all looks when it's finished on one pass.

Yes a good looking animal, alright...

Your planes must reflect your personallity, Andy . They've all got the same interesting look. Really....and solid. Wouldn't want to get too close to you, when your in a bad mood with one of those in your hand.

Sounds like you'll be making shoulder, rebate and plough planes one day too.

Like the butterfly...Like to see how you do that..I've seen them before, but never used them..(hint ).....Done with powered router, yes ?...with a template....or do you do them by hand ?

Thanks guys, I think it is as you describe, a wee beast! Can't quite remember how long it took Mike, but I'd have to say at least 4-5hrs for the body and wedge, and a couple more for the blade. The blade is 6mm thick, made from annealed leaf spring, which I cut, ground and tempered.
The butterflies were hand chopped, with a spacer fitted inside for support. No reason why a jig and router couldn't be used, as long as you could locate it over such an odd shape. The butterflies I've done before have mostly been on table tops, an easier proposition for a router, but even then I prefer hand copping them. I did a small one in a forest or she-oak jewellery box (mongrel stuff that loves splitting when seasoning), but used an aluminium butterfly. Looked great except when it came time to sand...al. powder imbedding in the timber and staining it:mad: !
Will post pics of a rebate (or is that a dado?) plane soon, made about the same time.

Cheers,

Very nice plane, Andy. Good work.

Originally Posted by Andy Mac

couple more for the blade. The blade is 6mm thick, made from annealed leaf spring, which I cut, ground and tempered.
Cheers,

Hi ,Andy love your work.I have been a bit anal about cutting the leafspring with
chopsaw (is this how you do it ?would this cuting leave a damaged portion in the spring ?The carbon having burned out eather side of the cut :confused: -OR not?)
Any one else has opinion/suggestion,(about the above )
Regards ,Bela

Hi forge,
I think you are right about localised burning and losing carbon, but then some people get all funny about forging high carbon steels anyway. Maintaining that for every heat you risk losing carbon, so less cycles on the forge and efficient use of the hammer! :confused: The options...use a cold cutting saw. I have access to a metal cut-off bandsaw, the drop type one. I can almost cut the full bevel, and with liquid cooling the cut is cold to touch! The purists will say that a bevel should be forged, so the steel 'packs' for maximum toughness. If the spring steel is annealed (that's how it comes from spring works) maybe you can get some exercise with a hacksaw!! Of course you could do the same with real tool steel. The other option is to cut it as you plan, and cool it ASAP, whether that will help or not I don't know.... proofs in the pudding.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Andy Mac

Hi forge,
I think you are right about localised burning and losing carbon, but then some people get all funny about forging high carbon steels anyway. Maintaining that for every heat you risk losing carbon, so less cycles on the forge and efficient use of the hammer! :confused: The options...use a cold cutting saw. I have access to a metal cut-off bandsaw, the drop type one. I can almost cut the full bevel, and with liquid cooling the cut is cold to touch! The purists will say that a bevel should be forged, so the steel 'packs' for maximum toughness. If the spring steel is annealed (that's how it comes from spring works) maybe you can get some exercise with a hacksaw!! Of course you could do the same with real tool steel. The other option is to cut it as you plan, and cool it ASAP, whether that will help or not I don't know.... proofs in the pudding.

Cheers,

Andy ,reading between the lines -are you using metal that has not been made into a spring yet?Annealed?Here i been under the impression you'r recycling leaf springs .Perhaps i should try your method(but then what will i do with the bus and truck springs i collected over the years )
Regards ,Bela

Hi Forge,
You are partially right, I have recently made stuff from unused (new) spring material, both round bar and flat leaf springs. The good thing about it is the annealed state, so much nicer to work . Offcuts are available from spring works.
I also use old springs, although the annealing process sometimes works ok and othertimes not, but I try to do this before I start working on it. I got put off coil springs (from a motorbike) when I tried to straighten a length and found it to be delaminated, probably thru age and abuse. Bummer to try and make stuff with that. The best tool I've made is my original whittling knife, made from a 1930's Chevie leaf spring, that was good steel!
Keep recycling I say, but be prepared for the occassional failure.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by Andy Mac

Hi Forge,
You are partially right, I have recently made stuff from unused (new) spring material, both round bar and flat leaf springs. The good thing about it is the annealed state, so much nicer to work . Offcuts are available from spring works.
I also use old springs, although the annealing process sometimes works ok and othertimes not, but I try to do this before I start working on it. I got put off coil springs (from a motorbike) when I tried to straighten a length and found it to be delaminated, probably thru age and abuse. Bummer to try and make stuff with that. The best tool I've made is my original whittling knife, made from a 1930's Chevie leaf spring, that was good steel!
Keep recycling I say, but be prepared for the occassional failure.

Cheers,

Thank's ,Andy . Will call the spring shop for offcuts and such.Maybe i could even have them do some anealing of some leafspring that i been hoarding
Regards ,Bela