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Thread: A new Dovetail Saw
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5th December 2008, 09:06 PM #1
A new Dovetail Saw
This was made as a present, I have to say it was a struggle from start to finish. I will spare the gory details and just present the results.
The brass back is slotted using a setup described here
http://www.backsaw.net/cpg/displayim...album=20&pos=1
The rest of the process, I will do a proper write up one of these days.
This one is taken from the scanner
I re-did the screws between those two pics, the last one, I just linished flush (yes I know!) , the top pic I was trying for a more polished look on the screws, didn't really work out.
I cut the teeth 17tpi (just marked direct from ruler in 1/16ths) this is finer than I have been doing (usually 12-14 tpi)
Also I went a lot narrower on the blade height and gave it a bit of cant (taper).
The wood is walnut. The finish is shellac and wax
I now have to do a couple in Sheoak. (love making saws! very satisfying!)
Regards
Ray
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5th December 2008, 09:10 PM #2
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5th December 2008, 10:50 PM #3
Hi Ray
Beaut looking saw.
Those are not split nuts, so how are they tightened-loosened?
Length of blade?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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5th December 2008, 11:04 PM #4
very nice Ray
ian
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5th December 2008, 11:42 PM #5
Wow Ray, beautiful saw. Great present!
You can't beat walnut
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6th December 2008, 07:09 AM #6Skwair2rownd
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Great workmanship Ray!
The only toolmaking I have ever done was at school! A mallet from Tallow wood,a small metal tri-square, a gadget to find circle centres and a marking gauge. 46 years on and I have lost the marking gauge but still make use of the others.
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6th December 2008, 10:06 AM #7
A beautiful saw indeed. What thickness is the blade? I've not seen Walnut that looks like that; what variety is it?
.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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6th December 2008, 10:26 AM #8
Hi Derek,
I have been trying different methods of making split nuts, these ones are made with 3/16" threaded brass rod and 1/2" brass rod. (the screwdriver slot is on the other side)
The technique is based on Leif Hansen's "poor boy split nuts "http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/node/108
The second set I made (after stuffing up the first set) I left slightly long and just linished flush with the handle. I would prefer not to do it that way, so I'm still looking for improvements..
The saw plate is 9" long and 1 1/2" under the back at the heel, 1 1/4" under the back at the toe.
Filed 17tpi rip 0 rake and 3 thou set either side. It has a very balanced feel to it, and starts easily and cuts nicely.
It's now somewhere over the pacific, at 30,000 ft. (in the back of santa's 747)
Regards
Ray
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6th December 2008, 10:33 AM #9
Hi Woodwould,
The blade is 20 thou 1095 spring steel, from these guys
http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/vic...%3A1523%2C1524
The walnut is Australian grown English walnut, grown up near Mansfield. They graft the English walnut onto Black Walnut stock, this is a bit from some highly figured gunstock rejects.
Stay away from the Black Walnut, but grab the figured English Walnut when you get a chance!
Regards
Ray
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6th December 2008, 11:12 AM #10
<o></o>
I used to buy European Walnut which around Dargo and from several Walnut farmers around the Bright area (in fact all along the Ovens <st1>Valley)</st1>. The varieties grown for their nuts are of European origins (juglans regia) and are grafted onto Black Walnut (juglans negra) root stock as it's a more vigorous grower
I thought initially, because of the wriggly grain, your handle was made from one of the Australian Eucalypt pseudo walnuts and I was asking with tongue in cheek. I recognise the wood in your handle now as being Black Walnut rootstock. Rootstock has predominantly tight wriggly grain with immense strength and flexibility - hence it is so sought after for gun stocks
I used to cut Black Walnut roots into gun stock blanks and sell them in Europe, the <st1:country-region w:st="on">UK</st1:country-region> and the US. As the farmed hybrids stop producing fruit, they're usually removed and new stock is planted. Only about one in three butresses produce usable gunstock blanks, so it's a very laborious job extracting the good stuff. However, they produce heaps of saw handle and other tool handle sized wood.<o></o>
I used to keep the timber from above the graft for furniture. I described a Walnut tea table in another thread that I made from Dargo and Bright juglans regia. It is quite rightly called the King of Woods or Bois Royale in France (in fact although 'bois' is French for wood, 'Bois' often refers specifically to Walnut in many texts of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries..
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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6th December 2008, 11:13 AM #11
Ray,
Just a moment while I wipe my chin. That is so good.
I have been cleaning up old saws of late and find myself toying with the idea of making a tennon saw with rip teeth. Is the brass just pressed on or is there some kind of fix.
Regards
John
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6th December 2008, 01:56 PM #12
Ray,
lovely work. Stunning tools you are making there. Keep it up.
all the best
Kevin
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6th December 2008, 02:50 PM #13
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6th December 2008, 03:24 PM #14
Hi Woodwould,
I think you may be right, I have both Black Walnut and English Walnut, and they could well have been mixed up. Some pieces are from higher up in the tree, crotch figure and some nice marbled figure, they are definitely English Walnut, but lower down the tree, some bits could be either, depending on if it was cut above the graft or below.
I chose that particular piece because it had some nice colour variation. Walnut is one of those varieties that seemingly has infinite variety, incredible figure that just begs to be made into something, I guess that's why we like working with wood.
Regards
Ray
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6th December 2008, 03:28 PM #15
Hi John,
Just press fit, after slotting the brass I clamp it up in a vise and close it a little. I know that some use epoxy, and I see nothing wrong with that, the claim is that epoxying the back to the blade makes for a stiffer back. Not sure if that's true, but as long as the back can be removed later if desired, I see no problem with glue. I just don't do it.
Regards
Ray
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