Thread: Making long Dowel Rods on the Router Table

It works by rotating a square workpiece while pushing it across a spinning router bit which “lathes” the stock to the required diameter. The drill provides the rotation. The Gauge guides the rod past the bit. The trick is to calculate the correct diameter of the infeed hole so the square stock is guided firmly toward the bit, as it turns. An Excel spreadsheet is included hereabouts for the measurements of infeed hole, stock size to produce an (outfeed) diameter of rod.

Bill’s model has no reliable support for the drill, so I made a drill carriage and guiding T-track that keeps the workpiece square with the Gauge. You’ll need to do some calculations for the thickness of your drill-carriage and track relative to the Gauge block, coupled with the centre-line of your drill-chuck so that the workpiece is centred and horizontal as it spins. Otherwise you’ll have a monumental shattering of timber as shards fly in all directions from your drill. More about the chuck, later. Needless to say, you must set your drill speed to the lowest setting.
<O
My cutting Gauges are made from blocks of Blackbutt because it won’t wear with the constant spinning. The block is 75 mm by 150mm and 50mm high. Cut a few block of the same (non-critical) dimensions and make the accessory holes for the bolts and wing nuts. I recommend drilling a tiny diameter reference guide-hole to a depth of 25mm in the centre of each block – where the router bit will eventually travel.

Now, you’re best advised to make the larger infeed hole first on the DP and then centre the bit for the remaining distance using the outfeed diameter bit. You may need an expansion bit for this kind of job because of the required precision. Sloppy diameters will mean sloppy dowels. My DP only drills to 6cm (throw) so I need to use my DP fence and carefully flip the block for the reverse side.

I needed to measure-up carefully so that the reference hole emerges as close as possible to the meeting of the horizontal infeed and outfeed holes, but it’s not really that critical.
<o>
The block support is any length of straight flat timber that can straddle your router table and can be clamped in position at either end. Drill a central hole of 13mm in the support. Turn off the router.
</o>Attachment 44322
<o> <o>
Mount a straight bit, or spiral bit or best of all a core-box bit with as long a shank as you can find. You may need the travel!
<o>
Raise the bit using a height-winder (or the router itself) so the tiny centre hole in the block just engages with the top of the bit. Turn on the router and very slowly raise the bit. Sight through the (larger) infeed hole until the spinning bit breaks through. I raised the bit incrementally and switched off and use touch to determine when the top of the bit is just in line with the lowest curvature of the outfeed hole. Raise the bit a tiny bit more and check before turning on the router.
</o></o></o>Attachment 44323
<o><o><o> <o>
Without using the drill (rotating manually), test the height by routing a short length and inspecting the result. It won’t look good without the drill turning the stock but if the dowel emerges without too much pressure - you’re finished. If the diameter is too small, lower the bit until it’s just right. Obviously if the bit is too low the dowel will never come through, no matter how hard you push. </o></o></o></o>
Attachment 44324

I next built a T-square and scribed a centre line on the block-support to match another on the T-square. My T-square is made from Cyprus with a drill carriage made from Pine.
Attachment 44325
I used metal strapping to make a shoe for my electric drill and ensured that the carriage will fit snugly on the T-square track so that there’s no wobble. The depth of the carriage channel is less than the thickness of the t-square track so that it cannot snag on the edge of my table.
Attachment 44326

Remember to set the drill on its slowest speed – which is still too darn fast for my liking, but Ok – and begin moving the spinning stock through the gauge while the router removes the excess material and a neat dowel rod emerges from the other end.
<o>
A bit of sanding with 110 and 240 grit and bob’s-your-uncle.
<o>
Now for the drill chuck, which was my Nemesis. Bill Hylton suggests cutting a square end on the stock and locking that in the chuck, but this wouldn’t work for me so I made a custom “jaw” consisting of a large 1cm diameter Lag Bolt from which I cut the hex-head and drilled into a piece of maple.
</o></o>Attachment 44327<o><o>
I then fitted three thin screws that could bite into the end of the stock - so I now have a good grip on the stock, but this only works with stock for outfeed rods between 18 and 25mm.
</o></o>Attachment 44328<o><o>
I’m still not happy with how I can hold thinner stock in the chuck.
<o>
With rods under about 18mm I also needed to clamp an outfeed “hole” support preventing the dowel from whipping around and cracking.</o></o></o>

Here's how to calculate the infeed sizes for a required rod diameter. Hope you enjoy making this thing.

That's a great piece of kit knurl, thanks for the comprehensive post,
I need to make some dowel next weekend from sapele so your post is perfect timing BUT I think it is code violation for a woodworker to have a lawn ... and green to boot!!
will the moderator(s) please confirm,
Fletty

Thanks Fletty. Just watered, too! SWMBO is a great gardener while I make sawdust. I forgot to mention that I cut the square stock on the table saw - but I though that was obvious.

Thanks Knurl great idea,well demonstrated