Thread: Drill bit sharpening.

Can't help with the sharpening jig do them all by hand , was taught as a trainee
Can tell you the total angle of the two flutes is 60 deg , so if there is a normal hex nut near buy check it against that, the flutes should match the flats on the nut
The rake is about 4 deg so when you sharpen you start at rt angles to the wheel holding it with both hands push the drill into the wheel turning clockwise and raise the front hand and lower the rear hand.

I know its hard to explain and easier to show someone

The trouble with life is there's no background music.


Russell

The main thing in sharpening drill bits is symetry. They should be the same on both sides of the centre of the bit. The small flat in the centre should be right angle to both cutting edges. Practice on an old bit till you get it right. There is a knack to it, so if you can find someone who can do it well, get them to teach you.

Dan

You know, I always thought I had that 'knack'. Been doing it quite a while. I've just always been under the impression that its too difficult to sharpen freehand well enough to be able drill steel. Cause, after sharpening a bit myself, and attempting to drill steel, it works one day, but maybe not the next. Hit and miss.

Are you guys confident with sharpening bits for drilling steel ? I don't know of any that are. No modesty eh. . Like to know how possible it is.

Well, I often touch up an old bit on the grinder before drilling steel, but I usually have a pilot hole drilled first. My 1/8" bits don't seem to hang around long enough to get blunt, so I always have to buy new ones anyway.

I used to work exclusively in steel. Not only is it possible, it is a must. You would quickly go out of business if you bought a new 1" bit every time it got blunt.

Silent, 1/8" bits are not worth the bother to sharpen. Normally break before they get blunt anyway. Buy them in the packs of ten double ended bits.

Jake

I keep separate boxes of drill bits for metal and wood. When I need to drill metal, it must be sharp, and Murphy's Law usually prevails at this time...

When sharpening bits I just try to replicate the angles that were there beforehand. I do my drill bit sharpening on a drill press, not a grinder.

To do this I use one of those traditional drill bit holders:

<div><img src="http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Sharpening/image002.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />

However, I have mine sttached to a base, and this is placed on the pedastal of the drill press. I chuck a sharpening stone into the drill and lower it onto the end of the drill press. In other words, I bring the stone to the drill bit , not the bit to the stone.

In this way I can set the cutting angle more precisely. With everything fixed rigidly it worked very well. And is cheap.

I can put together a picture of my set up if you need (tonight). Just yell out.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I have tried some of the jigs and found them too slow or unreliable, I just sharpen by eye with at least 90% success. Like Ashore said except 60 deg each total 120 deg.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Jake

I can put together a picture of my set up if you need (tonight). Just yell out.

Derek

G'day Derek,

I'd like to see your setup. I've wondered about sharpening as I have a tin full of various bits and half are blunt. They get a fair workout but sometimes it's like drilling with a blunt stick especially in metal.

Love to see piccys & further details Derek, I have that same generic drill sharpener, but am yet to mount it.

BTW, if anyone has the correct instructions for setting up this type of sharpening jig I would appreciate them being posted, mine came sans destructions


Cheers...............Sean, blunt bits

Thanks everyone for your comments....

If its possible to consistantly sharpen by hand, then, there must be something wrong with my technique. Bugger, I thought I'd nailed that .
I thought that when one drills metal, the rakes and all those other details had to be so spot on that it was just too hard to sharpen freehand.

I know the small bits do break a lot, but still I have plenty of blunt ones. Is there an easy way to sharpen them. Or is the effort not worth it , since they are pretty cheap new. I find them tricky to sharpen freehand.

Ta Derek,
Like to see that picture, when you get a chance. Can see myself setting up a jig like that.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

I can put together a picture of my set up if you need (tonight). Just yell out.

Derek

Show us the piccy's, please. I'm having trouble understanding your explanation.

Kev M

I have one of the jigs shown by Derek and it is great I find I can sharpen very well with them, getting the rake right is critical but you will soon learn the right position for that and at $19 at carbe-tec good value.

Arch

The $20 sharpening jig will give a reasonable result but you need to be aware you shouldn't use it on a standard grinding wheel. I used to do this until it was pointed out to me that grinding on the side of the wheel can cause it shatter.

Thought that the Martec drill sharpener would turn out to be a bit of a toy, when i bought it at the Wood Show 3 years ago.

Have sharpened hundreds of drills since then.. would not be without it now.

As you will see from the pic.. it was just lashed together as i was not very serious about it, at the time. Used an old Sunbeam "burst of power" hand held mixer. Connected one of the beaters to the drive shaft with sticky tape. (cut off the beater).. same tape still working !!!

I recently bought one for my son .. Total tools stock them and supply replacement grinding wheels .. cheaper than you get them at the show.

Replacement wheels are $15 approx and last me for at least 150 sharpens or there abouts. The Guy i spoke to at Total Tools reconed they were by far the best low cost units.

paddy