Thread: Dovetailed infill shoulder plane

Very nice Richard. When the time comes, get back to us on how well it works, eh. By the look of the care you've put into its appearance, I'd say it'll perform beautifully.

It looks great, Like the photos too.

Do you really make the bases without machinery?

Richard,

You have me drooling like a loon here - that looks absolutely stunning. Almost to the point where "who cares if it works"... Great job!

G'day Richard,

Yet again a very nice piece of work. And again you have the usual plane fanciers drooling over your latest triumph.

Great job.

I'd be too scared to try it, maybe one day. If I can't find the holy grail of planes and I find plans for it, I'll give a go at making a plane for cutting sliding dovetails.

Hi folks.

Again, thanks for all the encouragement.

A hacksaw and files are pretty much all the mahinery you need for a 1-off although a mill would make life a lot easier if you were to make a 'few' (and knew how to use one, which I don't).

Waldo, there are some good step by step articles here..

http://www.handplane.com/archives/30

dovetails 101 is very helpful. Brass is easy to cut and it is just a matter of marking out the pins on the steel sole off the brass after you have cut the tails like you do with wood. The only difference is the secondary bevel you file on the brass then clamping them very firmly together on a former (the bit I have trouble with) and gently bashing it. I think starting with a little block plane is a good thing. I found it encouraging ... it isn't as hard as it looks and you don't use much in the way of materials.

I thought the bevels on the sides would be really tricky, but in the end they were the easiest bit, just slowly filing away to a scribed line.

I'll post some shaving photos - assuming it works - once I get my hands on a flame thrower to harden the blade.

Beautiful looking plane Richard !! Drooling on my desk here...
Hope to see some shots of it in action when you get the blade finished.

Cheers,

Richard

That is magnificent!

IN NZ you should make contact with Malcolm Macpherson:

http://www.macpherson.co.nz/shop_made_planes.htm

Regards from Perth

Derek

"WOW" Richard thats another impresive looking plane you have made, Your metal working skills look pretty good to me. Great Job.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Richard

That is magnificent!

IN NZ you should make contact with Malcolm Macpherson:

http://www.macpherson.co.nz/shop_made_planes.htm

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks for the contact Derek. There is another chap here I have been e-mailing - Philip Marcou. He makes lovely looking planes from the photos he has posted on http://www.handplane.com/archives/105. He machines out his dovetails etc and is making them in small batches. I think he intends posting them on his web site which is purely woodwork at the moment http://www.collectablefurniture.co.nz/.

Awesome, Richard!

Every encouragement to make more of the same! You've got us all drooling. Karl Holtey, watch out!

GW

There is another chap here I have been e-mailing - Philip Marcou.

Richard

I would have given you Philip's address but did not have it to hand.

Philip and I correspond quite a bit about plane design. I am in the process of reviewing his BU smoother. What a stunning performer. You will hear about it in detail here in the near future.

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Regards from Perth

Derek

Well done, Richard.

I enjoyed your first plane, this one even more so. Pleased to see such excellent results.

I, too, am intending to have a go at plane making - you are making me nervous about the bar being so high for a first attempt.

I see the sole is in fact cut right through, as was the case in your block plane. When you made the plane did you leave the sole as one piece and then cut the mouth in later, or did you cut the sole first then pein it back together with the sides? This is the bit that most worries me - cutting the sole then trying to realign it with the sides.

Good luck with your future endeavours.

Anthony

Derek, hmm, that smoother puts my efforts into perspective a bit. It looks amazing. I hope to see one in the metal one day. Drool!

GW, As for the Karl Hotley ones:eek: . But thanks for the compliment!!

Anthony, I made the sole in 2 bits in both cases. It would be pretty hard to cut such a low angle mouth otherwise (without a mill I suppose). I think for a bevel down plane the angle would be sufficient that you could drill out and then file the mouth all as one piece - but someone else on the forum would know better than me.

For a block plane I think it is pretty straightforward to align the 2 bits. After cutting and filing the mouth to your liking, just clamp the sole on a former and mark out the dovetails from the sides. In any case, the peining process will fill any minute gaps between the 2 pieces.

Hi Richard. That is beautiful. What is the timber ?
A question - does driving the wedge in hard enough to stop blade movement tend to deflect the sole immediately below the business end of the blade downward ?

thanks
Arron