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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,820

    Default Grinding (shaping) a blade for a scrub plane

    I have had a few requests for information on grinding a blade for a scrub plane.

    There are two ways to grind a curve onto a blade. The first is just do it freehand at a grinder. Since the surface is going to be chewed up (although this can be chewed up neatly!), the blade shape is less critical. So just get as close a curve as you can. Of course, the grind angle is between 25 - 30 degrees as with all plane blades.

    The second method is the one I prefer since it produces a clean, smooth curve. Cut a piece of hardwood the same size as the blade. At the end of this piece, shape the curve you want to grind. Now, if you are using a Stanley blade, which has a groove down the centre, bolt the two together. If the blade you are using is solid (like the original Stanley scrub plane blade), then clamp it to the hardwood. What you are going to do is use the curve on the hardwood as a template for the blade. The curve runs up against the edge of the grinder rest, and the blade (bolted to the top) is extended until it contacts the grinder wheel at approximately 30 degrees (preferred angle). You then turn the blade against the wheel using the curve of the hardwood template as a guide. See first picture below.

    Once you have ground the curve (either fashion), it is necessary to hone the blade (sandpaper, waterstones, etc). It is not necessary to hone as high a grit as other plane blades as you asre not trying for a smooth finish. A 1200 waterstone is adequate, although I would prefer to go to at least 4000 myself.

    I do not have a favourite since each seems different in a positive way.

    The first one I used was one I made out of a ECE-type horned wooden (Norwegian) smoother. This has a great 1/8" thick by 1-3/4" wide blade. In some ways this is the perfect scrub since it is light and comfortable in use for long periods.

    Then I bought a vintage Stanley #40 (just because it looked so cool), and what I like about this scrub is that it has a bit of heft and this is helpful when taking deeper cuts in hardwoods.

    The third scrub I use was the result of a disaster. The only plane I ever inherited was my late father-in-law's Stanley #3. I used it for several years, quite happy in my ignorance that it had a very wide mouth and could not cut anything but pine, and even then was more like a short jack plane than a smoother. For some years it had lane on a shelf unused. Then a few months ago I decided that it would be more honourable to find a use for it than to abandon it as it was. So I opened the mouth some more (it really didn't need much more!) and ground the blade to a nice radius. You know what, even with the thinnest blade of this bunch, it does a nice job. What is special is the fact that I can adjust the depth of cut and this makes it possible to go from a trim to a deeper slice, which is useful when taking off high points.

    So there are some options: make your own, buy your own, or rescue one.
    See second picture.


    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    kyogle N.S.W
    Age
    50
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    4,844

    Default

    Good stuff here........I've never owned one of those horned wooden planes...... How well do the blades hold up ? are they HSS ?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,820

    Default

    The blades are pre-HSS and pre-A2 era, the same old steel that has been used in plane blades for 150 years. But the woodie and the Stanley #40 blades are quite a bit thicker than the old Stanley bench plane blades.

    Pine is hardly a test for these blades, but jarrah and other hardwoods definitely mean business.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Boyne Island, Queensland
    Age
    51
    Posts
    929

    Default

    A very timely post Derek.

    This last week I've been cleaning up a pile of second hand hardwood for my new bench and have been using a #4 as a scrub (and metal detector). I started out honing the bevel after grinding but laziness got the better of me, so I tried grinding the bevel, removing the bur on the waterstone (back of blade only) and then using the blade. I was surprised at how well the blade will cut like this and for me it is much quicker due to not being very good at honing curved bevels.

    It sounds a bit rough but it works and I guess should not be any great surprise as woodturners do much the same to sharpen their chisels.
    Dan

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