Thread: Infill Scrub Plane

Originally Posted by Ironwood

Yes, good to see progress CK. I will be following along closely here, as I am up to the thinking stage of making the handle for mine.

I’m in the same boat,
Or should that be think tank!.

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Cklett

Minimal progress is still better than none, right?

You bet it is. Looks good.

This happened this morning.



This handle is 31mm thick. I had a feel on my Stanley planes with thinner handles and some of my old woodies. They have handles also around 30 - 32 mm. I decided I like the thicker handle more and thought I can always make it thinner if I want to.

I also love my Shinto rasp. Wish they'd also have a half round one. Still need a good half round rasp. Mine are pretty worn. Maybe time to invest a new decent one.

Otherwise I hope I get the back infill done this weekend.


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Originally Posted by Cklett

This happened this morning.



This handle is 31mm thick. I had a feel on my Stanley planes with thinner handles and some of my old woodies. They have handles also around 30 - 32 mm. I decided I like the thicker handle more and thought I can always make it thinner if I want to.

I also love my Shinto rasp. Wish they'd also have a half round one. Still need a good half round rasp. Mine are pretty worn. Maybe time to invest a new decent one.

Otherwise I hope I get the back infill done this weekend.


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Looks good CK

The go to rasps are the hand stitched offerings from either Liogier or Auriou. I have several Liogier rasps, including the curved saw makers rasps, and find them superior to anything else I have, but I don't have Auriou. I believe Derek Cohen has both (and also the Shinto) so he may be able to chip in here with a comparison. Recently I purchased a Tome Fetiera hand stitched rasp and it was good but not as good as the Liogiers. A lot will depend in the end on the price for where you are situated.

Regards
Paul

CK,

The handle is coming along nicely,you bring up a good point, with regards the thickness of the handle.
Please let us know how the handle feels being around the the 30 mm thick mark.
As Paul commented there a lots of handle making rasps out there,
The nicer ones are pricey, but they do do a nice job.
But I’ve also just used cloth backed sandpaper in 10 mm by 300mm strips and that works ok too.


Cheers Matt.

CK

When it comes to shaping the handle I am fortunate in that I already have some gear from my saw making activities, but just to give some suggestions, here is some of the equipment.

Before I use these tools I will cut off whatever I can with either a frame saw or a coping saw and then I use rasps. Although I have pictured four saw makers rasps (Liogier), I would comment that I don't use the flat rasps very much at all. If I was only making one or two handles, which would be most of us, I would not bother with the curved rasps. You can manage without, but you will need a half round file that is not too large. I would suggest one coarse file and one fine file.

P1060709 (Medium).JPG

Once roughed out you can start sanding. I use the cloth backed sandpaper as It can be used by itself without a block without tearing. I also use it in bow sanders. The rolls come in 50mm size which is too wide for the bow sanders so I tear it down to the required width. This leaves a narrow strip which still can be used by hand. Hold the handle in the vice for these rasping and sanding operations. In fact to sand the inside of the hand hole you can only really use the hand held paper, but it works very well.

P1060708 (Medium).JPG

Where possible I use the bow sanders. The empty sander is missing the coarsest grit. Most of them are the McFarlane bowsander, but the flat version is one I picked up from the Toowoomba swap meet a few years ago. It has belt sander material clamped in it.

P1060707 (Medium).JPG

Having a few means I can have the luxury of different grits all set up

P1060705 (Medium).JPG

I know many people use scrapers and if you have a small spokeshave this could be used too, particularly if it has a curved sole.

A spokeshave a bit like this would be good (HNT Gordon small curved model):

P1060711 (Medium).JPG

I ended up with this one because Terry invited SWMBO to try it out at the Brissy WWW Show. So enamoured was she with the plane that we were unable to wrestle the plane back from her and after she had used up his supply of wood, he commented that she had also worn the plane out: I had better buy it.

Regards
Paul

First time I've heard of a bow sander Paul, very interesting. I think I recall seeing something similar to the flat one in my grandfathers old toolbox, I'll have to investigate.

Picko

Start here, but there are many versions (just Google "bowsander").

MacFarlane Bowsander - Dunstone Design

MacFarlane is Dunstone's workshop manager, I think, and as he designed the tool Dunstone named it after him. It was developed for sanding the awkward rounded components in chair making.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Cklett

Minimal progress is still better than none, right?



Drilling the holes took some strength. Maybe I need to sharpen the auger bit a little better. However, the wood is also pretty hard. The holes came quite clean. Not that they stay like it anyway ;-)

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Hi CK. Loving your progress (here and in following posts). Looks like we both watch PS. My rag in a can oiler works great, such a simple idea but very useful

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Hi CK. Loving your progress (here and in following posts). Looks like we both watch PS. My rag in a can oiler works great, such a simple idea but very useful

Guilty as charged ;-)

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Got the handle shaped.

Thanks for all the advice. I used a mix of the tips. I also rewatched a video by Gakos and he cut out the shape of the handle. Then to round the grip he puts a chamfer on with chisels and then chamfers the chamfer again before he goes on it with files and finally sand paper. That works also to get rid of material fast.



Anyway that's where I am now:



The handle still has same thickness as the woodie at the back about 31mm.

I will leave it for the time being and start prepping the cheek infills left and right. During that time I will just go and pick each of them up and see how my sense develops. Maybe I will still thinn it a bit. Will see.....



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Originally Posted by Cklett

Got the handle shaped.... I also rewatched a video by Gakos and he cut out the shape of the handle. Then to round the grip he puts a chamfer on with chisels and then chamfers the chamfer again before he goes on it with files and finally sand paper. ...



Anyway that's where I am now:



...

I use a variation of this technique. Rather than chiselling out the chamfer, I use a roundover bit with bearing in the router.

For a 30mm handle a 10-12mm roundover bit should be about right. Then I use spokeshaves and rasps and sandpaper to refine the shape until it feels right in the hand.

Paul: Thanks for the reminder on bow sanders. I have used one a few times and they do some things better than other sanding tools.

PS: Just realised, what I said above relates to saw handles - presume it translates to plane handles.

I don't know when or where it happened, but I have to correct myself. I am still pretty sure I started with a board of 31mm. But when I now measured my handle again it came out with around 27.5mm.

Still thicker than others, but I like it and will keep it. I tried it a few times during the day and I'll keep it that way.

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Originally Posted by Cklett

I don't know when or where it happened, but I have to correct myself. I am still pretty sure I started with a board of 31mm. But when I now measured my handle again it came out with around 27.5mm.

Still thicker than others, but I like it and will keep it. I tried it a few times during the day and I'll keep it that way.

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It's all about what feels most comfortable and most functionable in your hand.