Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 61 to 75 of 105
  1. #61
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    near Mackay
    Age
    56
    Posts
    4,334

    Default

    Yes, good to see progress CK. I will be following along closely here, as I am up to the thinking stage of making the handle for mine.
    ​Brad.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #62
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    5,233

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ironwood View Post
    Yes, good to see progress CK. I will be following along closely here, as I am up to the thinking stage of making the handle for mine.
    Iím in the same boat,
    Or should that be think tank!.

    Cheers Matt.

  4. #63
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    292

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cklett View Post
    Minimal progress is still better than none, right?
    You bet it is. Looks good.

  5. #64
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    345

    Default

    This happened this morning.



    This handle is 31mm thick. I had a feel on my Stanley planes with thinner handles and some of my old woodies. They have handles also around 30 - 32 mm. I decided I like the thicker handle more and thought I can always make it thinner if I want to.

    I also love my Shinto rasp. Wish they'd also have a half round one. Still need a good half round rasp. Mine are pretty worn. Maybe time to invest a new decent one.

    Otherwise I hope I get the back infill done this weekend.


    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  6. #65
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    70
    Posts
    8,583

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cklett View Post
    This happened this morning.



    This handle is 31mm thick. I had a feel on my Stanley planes with thinner handles and some of my old woodies. They have handles also around 30 - 32 mm. I decided I like the thicker handle more and thought I can always make it thinner if I want to.

    I also love my Shinto rasp. Wish they'd also have a half round one. Still need a good half round rasp. Mine are pretty worn. Maybe time to invest a new decent one.

    Otherwise I hope I get the back infill done this weekend.


    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    Looks good CK

    The go to rasps are the hand stitched offerings from either Liogier or Auriou. I have several Liogier rasps, including the curved saw makers rasps, and find them superior to anything else I have, but I don't have Auriou. I believe Derek Cohen has both (and also the Shinto) so he may be able to chip in here with a comparison. Recently I purchased a Tome Fetiera hand stitched rasp and it was good but not as good as the Liogiers. A lot will depend in the end on the price for where you are situated.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  7. #66
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    5,233

    Default

    CK,

    The handle is coming along nicely,you bring up a good point, with regards the thickness of the handle.
    Please let us know how the handle feels being around the the 30 mm thick mark.
    As Paul commented there a lots of handle making rasps out there,
    The nicer ones are pricey, but they do do a nice job.
    But Iíve also just used cloth backed sandpaper in 10 mm by 300mm strips and that works ok too.


    Cheers Matt.

  8. #67
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    70
    Posts
    8,583

    Default

    CK

    When it comes to shaping the handle I am fortunate in that I already have some gear from my saw making activities, but just to give some suggestions, here is some of the equipment.

    Before I use these tools I will cut off whatever I can with either a frame saw or a coping saw and then I use rasps. Although I have pictured four saw makers rasps (Liogier), I would comment that I don't use the flat rasps very much at all. If I was only making one or two handles, which would be most of us, I would not bother with the curved rasps. You can manage without, but you will need a half round file that is not too large. I would suggest one coarse file and one fine file.

    P1060709 (Medium).JPG

    Once roughed out you can start sanding. I use the cloth backed sandpaper as It can be used by itself without a block without tearing. I also use it in bow sanders. The rolls come in 50mm size which is too wide for the bow sanders so I tear it down to the required width. This leaves a narrow strip which still can be used by hand. Hold the handle in the vice for these rasping and sanding operations. In fact to sand the inside of the hand hole you can only really use the hand held paper, but it works very well.

    P1060708 (Medium).JPG

    Where possible I use the bow sanders. The empty sander is missing the coarsest grit. Most of them are the McFarlane bowsander, but the flat version is one I picked up from the Toowoomba swap meet a few years ago. It has belt sander material clamped in it.

    P1060707 (Medium).JPG

    Having a few means I can have the luxury of different grits all set up

    P1060705 (Medium).JPG

    I know many people use scrapers and if you have a small spokeshave this could be used too, particularly if it has a curved sole.

    A spokeshave a bit like this would be good (HNT Gordon small curved model):

    P1060711 (Medium).JPG

    I ended up with this one because Terry invited SWMBO to try it out at the Brissy WWW Show. So enamoured was she with the plane that we were unable to wrestle the plane back from her and after she had used up his supply of wood, he commented that she had also worn the plane out: I had better buy it.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  9. #68
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    292

    Default

    First time I've heard of a bow sander Paul, very interesting. I think I recall seeing something similar to the flat one in my grandfathers old toolbox, I'll have to investigate.

  10. #69
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    70
    Posts
    8,583

    Default

    Picko

    Start here, but there are many versions (just Google "bowsander").

    MacFarlane Bowsander - Dunstone Design

    MacFarlane is Dunstone's workshop manager, I think, and as he designed the tool Dunstone named it after him. It was developed for sanding the awkward rounded components in chair making.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #70
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    683

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cklett View Post
    Minimal progress is still better than none, right?



    Drilling the holes took some strength. Maybe I need to sharpen the auger bit a little better. However, the wood is also pretty hard. The holes came quite clean. Not that they stay like it anyway ;-)

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    Hi CK. Loving your progress (here and in following posts). Looks like we both watch PS. My rag in a can oiler works great, such a simple idea but very useful

  12. #71
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    345

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Hi CK. Loving your progress (here and in following posts). Looks like we both watch PS. My rag in a can oiler works great, such a simple idea but very useful
    Guilty as charged ;-)

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  13. #72
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    345

    Default

    Got the handle shaped.

    Thanks for all the advice. I used a mix of the tips. I also rewatched a video by Gakos and he cut out the shape of the handle. Then to round the grip he puts a chamfer on with chisels and then chamfers the chamfer again before he goes on it with files and finally sand paper. That works also to get rid of material fast.



    Anyway that's where I am now:



    The handle still has same thickness as the woodie at the back about 31mm.

    I will leave it for the time being and start prepping the cheek infills left and right. During that time I will just go and pick each of them up and see how my sense develops. Maybe I will still thinn it a bit. Will see.....



    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  14. #73
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    3,081

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cklett View Post
    Got the handle shaped.... I also rewatched a video by Gakos and he cut out the shape of the handle. Then to round the grip he puts a chamfer on with chisels and then chamfers the chamfer again before he goes on it with files and finally sand paper. ...



    Anyway that's where I am now:



    ...
    I use a variation of this technique. Rather than chiselling out the chamfer, I use a roundover bit with bearing in the router.

    For a 30mm handle a 10-12mm roundover bit should be about right. Then I use spokeshaves and rasps and sandpaper to refine the shape until it feels right in the hand.

    Paul: Thanks for the reminder on bow sanders. I have used one a few times and they do some things better than other sanding tools.

    PS: Just realised, what I said above relates to saw handles - presume it translates to plane handles.

  15. #74
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    345

    Default

    I don't know when or where it happened, but I have to correct myself. I am still pretty sure I started with a board of 31mm. But when I now measured my handle again it came out with around 27.5mm.

    Still thicker than others, but I like it and will keep it. I tried it a few times during the day and I'll keep it that way.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  16. #75
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    3,081

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cklett View Post
    I don't know when or where it happened, but I have to correct myself. I am still pretty sure I started with a board of 31mm. But when I now measured my handle again it came out with around 27.5mm.

    Still thicker than others, but I like it and will keep it. I tried it a few times during the day and I'll keep it that way.

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

    It's all about what feels most comfortable and most functionable in your hand.

Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. $2 scrub plane
    By chook in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 10th Sep 2014, 01:57 PM
  2. Scrub plane
    By snafuspyramid in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 1st Jul 2011, 10:38 AM
  3. Jack plane converted to scrub plane...???
    By Greg_stewy in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 7th Jun 2007, 10:59 AM
  4. Scrub plane maybe?
    By Shedhand in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 37
    Last Post: 30th Dec 2006, 07:55 PM
  5. Kudos to Lee Valley- Scrub Plane; and Shoulder plane question
    By lyptus in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12th Jul 2005, 08:07 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •