Thread: Knife handle rivets - how do you fix them?

I'm not the slickest knife maker so my 'technique' might not appeal to you. I drill the hole, insert a brass rod and pound so it sorta squashes and sticks the pieces together. Then using a belt sander I grind and sand the rough end smooth with the wood.
Many knife rivets and bolts are made to extend wider than the thickness of the knife with handles. You bolt or pound them together then do as I do with the brass rods.
There are tons of knife making sites and forums out there, check them out.

Are they countersunk headed rivets? If so you countersink both both holes in the handles, insert the rivet through one side, cut off the excess rivet material poking out the other side, lay the whole assembly on a hard flat surface and beat the rivet until it fills the countersink. Then file the excess material down to the handle surface.

I've only ever hand riveted metals before but as you are using wooden handles I would suggest the following modifications:

Ensure the countersinks are shallow enough so that the rivet sits slightly proud of the handle material

Anneal the rivets by heating to slightly glowing then cooling naturally in a pile of hot sand (do not quench)

Use a 1/2 lb hammer only on the rivet initially and as the countersink starts to get full use a parallel punch to ensure the hammer doesn't touch the wood.

I like the idea of making my own marking knife, exactly what is your blade material again? (pardon me if I'm being dense!)

Thanks for the feedback. It's M2 steel, being the cut outs from the 2009 Forum Group order Stanley Blades. So it should make for some very good marking knives!

Harry , you could use wooden draw bore pins in place of metal rivets .
I have found them successful.
A few drops of glue with them , CA , epoxy , can do no harm either .

Look for cutlers rivets. They are the big brass circles you see on the side of a knife.

Installation - drill and hammer.

Cheers

Cam

This site has the rivets and other stuff for knifemaking.
AKC's Australian Knifemaking Supplies

Poloris

Cutler's rivets. AKC. Problem solved.

Thanks all! I already had the rivets - I'd bought them in my last Lee Vally order: Brass Rivets - Lee Valley Tools

I'm assuming that these are cutler's rivets, which from what's been posted in this thread are hammered together. I'm finishing off a project in the next few weeks, after which I'll put together the marking knives. I'll post some pics once they're done. By then I should also have some nice photos of the forum chisels!

Originally Posted by Harry R

Thanks all! I already had the rivets - I'd bought them in my last Lee Vally order: Brass Rivets - Lee Valley Tools

I'm assuming that these are cutler's rivets, which from what's been posted in this thread are hammered together. I'm finishing off a project in the next few weeks, after which I'll put together the marking knives. I'll post some pics once they're done. By then I should also have some nice photos of the forum chisels!

Those rivets are more suited for leather work, like holsters and horse tack. You will probably have difficulty getting a neat looking result if used with knife handles. I have several sad looking examples of my learning experiences trying those.
Knife handle fastners offer extra material that can be ground down to the handle rather than grinding the handle to try to match the rivet, a process that rarely works.
Take a look at: Handle Fasteners & Tang Nuts

Hi Harry,

Let us know how you got on with the knives. would be interested in seeing some pictures if you are able.

I have some old knives that need fixing.

Cheers
Pops

Originally Posted by Pops

Hi Harry,

Let us know how you got on with the knives. would be interested in seeing some pictures if you are able.

I have some old knives that need fixing.

Cheers
Pops

Hi Pops,

The cutlers rivets are easy to use. I have made a few knives from scratch and would be happy to chip in with info if you get stuck in making your repairs.

Cam

Originally Posted by Rifleman1776

Those rivets are more suited for leather work, like holsters and horse tack. You will probably have difficulty getting a neat looking result if used with knife handles. I have several sad looking examples of my learning experiences trying those.
Knife handle fastners offer extra material that can be ground down to the handle rather than grinding the handle to try to match the rivet, a process that rarely works.
Take a look at: Handle Fasteners & Tang Nuts

Nope - these are ideal. What you do is cut the rivet so that it doesn't bottom out. You countersink the hole a little bit with a bradpoint bit or forstner or something. Hammer the two bits (or press them) together and file and sand flat. Voila!

Hi Harry R,
I had almost the same situation, but with Beacon Screwdrivers.
I re-bored the 2 Holes to 3/16th. - 4mm?. I had to shape the handle roughly. bored the same size hole, but not all the way through, did the same with the other piece.
I then put the Wooden Dowel in, measured the Dowel length & glued with Loctite 401. I clamped it in the Wood Vice, & you have to be quick as 401 goes off very quickly.
When I finished the Handles, I was amazed at how good they looked,& how easy it really was, with nothing showing.
Regards,
issatree.
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Thanks for the advice. I'll get around to this over the next month or so and will post some pics - unless it all goes horribly wrong