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24th August 2006, 09:01 PM #1
Leadscrew router Planing/Thicknessing jig
Gday all
In this thread a while back I was looking for ideas on how to make a router planing & thicknessing jig with an indexing system to advance the router across the workpiece for each pass.
I have been vegetating on the design of it for ages, have accumulated the bits over this time, and have built it in the last week or so.
I wanted it big enough to handle a workpiece 8 ft long, up to about 450 mm wide, and up to 4 thick.
For the base of the fixture I used half of an 8ft aluminium extension ladder. This gives the base plenty of strength and rigidity, I didn’t want it sagging in the middle with the weight of the router carriage moving across the top and/or the weight of the workpiece. This ladder base sits on the Triton Superjaws and Multistand, the pivoting head on the multistand is useful to ensure that the ladder sits flat without any twist.
To the ladder I screwed a piece of 25mm chipboard, the same width and about 6 inches longer. I would have preferred melamine for this sub-base but didn’t have any thicker than 16mm, and I was concerned rebating the sail track would weaken it too much. When nearly finished building the jig, I found that it didn’t slide very well over the chipboard so I ironed on melamine edging to the edges and the sides of the top face of the sub-base. This was waxed with paraffin wax. 32mm benchtop chipboard with laminate and edging applied would have been great for this sub-base.
A length of Capral sail track cut into 4 pieces was set into the chipboard by routing a trench and screwing it in with c/sunk screws.
I made up some dogs to slide in the sail track which each have a ¼” cup head bolt, washer & nut to secure in place. I used some offcuts of 40x8mm KDHW cover strap for the low profile dogs, and some offcut 65x19 KDHW bevel skirting board for the bigger ones. These have small brads hammered in to the edge and clipped off to make small sharp points.
The router (mine is a Hitachi M12V) sits in a carriage, it is the Triton router table mounting plate and clamping setup bought as a spare part direct from Triton.
The carriage sits in and moves across the carriage base, or gantry as I reckon it looks like. The gantry consists of two angle iron rails (40x40x3mm I think) spaced apart and braced the width of the carriage by a couple of pieces of 19mm ply Each end of the gantry has spacers of more 19mm ply to elevate it off the sub-base, which are easily added or removed to give a planing thickness from 108mm down to 0. On the bottom of the spacers are sliders made of some black (possibly polypropylene) plastic (remember that plastic skip load in Bayswater or Boronia on Cup Day a few years ago, Sturdee? )
The sliders were rebated on the router table so they are an L cross section, which runs on the top and locates the gantry against the edges of the sub-base.
For the indexing function I was so keen on incorporating, I used some 12mm Reidbar and coupling nuts. The Reidbar is steel concrete rebar which has a coarse screw thread (roughly 4tpi) and various proprietary fittings are available which screw onto the bar. Same principle as allthread & hex nuts.
I needed to fix one coupling nut to the traveling router carriage, this was managed by routing a piece of pine into an inverted channel profile and securing the nut by screwing the wooden channel over it onto the router carriage. This secured the nut in place while allowing the reidbar to run through it without fouling.
To the end of the gantry I secured a couple of bits of the 19mm ply with a hole drilled for the reidbar to pass through. I cut a coupling nut into 4 shorter nuts, and locked each pair of these either side of the ply, with a couple of washers cut out of thin polyethylene to cut down friction & wear against the ply.
I made a crank handle by cutting out another piece of the ply with the scrollsaw, and securing a couple of small bearings on the end for a knob with a bolt & dome nut. The middle of the handle was chiseled out about 5mm deep to house one of the short nuts, and the handle was locked between the two nuts on the end of the reidbar.
To set up, the base is sat on the superjaws & multistand. The superjaws are clamped lightly onto the base, after the multistand head is leveled to it if necessary.
The carriage/gantry is then set onto the base, and the router clamped in, with a 38mm tray cutting bit in the collet.. A 8ft long piece of scrap with a notch cut in the end is set above at an angle from which the router power cord is hung to keep it out of the firing line.
The workpiece is secured onto the base with the dogs, with corner/s propped up with plastic wedges if necessary to stop it wobbling.
The router is fired up, depth set, and with one hand on the crank (er, so to speak ) and the other pushing the gantry is moved back & forth over the workpiece. In between each pass the crank is turned the desired amount to achieve the lateral movement. This was 1-2 turns for fast cutting and ½ turn for a finishing cut.
The quality of the cut is amazing, I tried it on 2 pieces of redgum (one with straightish grain & the other with great fiddleback) and another piece of unknown parentage, and they come out dead smooth & flat, and the high angle cut of the router bit really handles the cranky grain well.
I was really pleased with the speed of cut too, the Hitachi router has plenty of grunt which helps, but is very quick to slide back & forth adjusting the crank each time.
This is the beauty of the lead screw idea I reckon, you can stand upright, just swaying back & forth & watching the cut, so it’s not taxing on the back or neck.
Thanks for reading, and sorry about how wordy this post is, I was just stoked with how well the jig worked and wanted to record the detail in case anyone else wanted to build one.
Plenty of pics to follow.
Cheers……………….Sean
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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24th August 2006 09:01 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th August 2006, 09:04 PM #2
More pics
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The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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24th August 2006, 09:06 PM #3
Still more
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The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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24th August 2006, 09:09 PM #4
You're kidding?
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The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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24th August 2006, 09:10 PM #5
Yawn
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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24th August 2006, 09:14 PM #6
Great work Scooter! Invite Incra to have a look!
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24th August 2006, 09:26 PM #7
Yup.. looks good
I have a similar setup by mounting the router on my Peterson sawmill frame. Basically the surface comes out as straight as your rails, and all you are left with is some small swirls and lines that sand out easy.
Really is a good way to surface those big boards eh
Cheers
Ian
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24th August 2006, 09:33 PM #8
Scooter,
I've had ideas about making something like this for ages, but you've definately taken it up a notch from what I was thinking!
Well Done!Have a nice day - Cheers
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24th August 2006, 10:01 PM #9
I'm inspired (no inspired not expired) by the posts. Maybe I can utilise the bed of my Laidlaw mill.
Never even thought of it before! Thanks.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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25th August 2006, 10:49 AM #10GOLD MEMBER
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Really nice work Scooter.
It's a little difficult [my eyes] to see which bit is in the router - I'm presuming as large as it can take - which one?
Bob
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25th August 2006, 05:40 PM #11Deceased
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Originally Posted by scooter
I sure do Sean, still have quite a bit left.
Congratulations on building a wonderful machine a la the Woodwiz, well done mate. You have inspired me to build one myself when I get some shoptime as I still have all my old Triton stuff for parts.
I look forward to studying yours in detail when you get that BBQ organised.
Peter.
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25th August 2006, 08:43 PM #12
Thanks all for the noice comments I'm keen to try it on a few different timbers when my work week is finished tomorrow. Have a few different chainsawed chunks to plane up.
Bob, the router bit is a carbitool tray cutting bit, I think it's 38mm or so. Seems to cut really well and leaves a great finish.
Peter, fair point about the BBQ The bride is toey to get on the 'puter for her "cyperstamp night" (rubberstamping/cardmaking/scrapbooking forum night) so need to log off forum, but will start a thread soon for the BBQ. Will be a Sunday, prob in late Sept/early October so the weather is decent.
Cheers...............Sean
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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25th August 2006, 09:36 PM #13
Great looking unit there Sean, Thanks for taking the time to share with us all on how you built it well done.
Regards
Al .
You don't know, what you don't know, until you know it.
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26th August 2006, 08:53 AM #14
Top job, happy planing!
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26th August 2006, 09:38 PM #15
Gday all, & thanks again
Had a go at a rough sawn cypress board I had in the rack.
Was about 30 mm thick, 150mm wide & about 2ft 6" long, with a bit of a twist.
Planed one side with corners supported by wedges, then flipped over & thicknessed second side. Had to be very thorough about cleaning the sawdust off the bed before clamping down for the second side, any bits left under the workpiece would have affected the accuracy.
Measured the thickness on both edges of both ends with the digital verniers, there was a 0.2mm (fifth of a mm) difference in thicness between one edge & the other, not bad across 6" of board width I thought
Have found that the best finish comes from doing the final passes taking off about 5mm width of cut (still with the big tray cutter), and doing 2 passes - up & back, 1/2 turn, up & back, 1/2 turn, etc. First pass is like climb cutting, ie. the router pulls itself along, return pass is against the rotation but cleans up after the first. The depth of cut seems to make no difference (within reason ) to the finished surface quality, the final cut (shown below) on the cypress was about 2-3mm deep.
The clipped nails in the "dogs" are the go, they really hold the workpiece well.
Some more pics.
Cheers...............Sean
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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