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Thread: Marking triangles
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4th November 2007, 10:08 PM #16Deceased
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That's also an idea but it looks to me more work and maybe some problems with accuracy...my aim is to use the triangle from both sides, I mean, to be able to check for square and to mark square lines and for that, the slates have to be very consistent in width and the gluing should be done very carefully and accurately, I mean very parallel to the triangle base...
I found that the CA is gluing the plastic and /or the plywood very strong to the base strip...
And....I went to the garage and broke the base, as you can see on the pic, and that's only 2 mm thick triangle, I believe that the 6mm thick triangle is even stronger.
I think that because of the light weight, even if the triangle falls down, the base will not break...maybe
Jaw104
No, I don't mind you "hijacking"...no problems...
Regards
niki
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4th November 2007 10:08 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th November 2007, 04:29 PM #17
Another excellent idea, niki. Interestingly, the breakage there has been the wood, and not the glue joint.
I think the plastic triangles also give very accurate templates for 45° (in the isosceles right triangle) and 30° and 60° (in the 30/60/90 scalene triangle). These are handy for setting up angles for multi-sided boxes, and diamond marquetry.Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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5th November 2007, 11:48 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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Make your own straight edge....
http://home.comcast.net/~jaswensen/m...ight_edge.html
Personally I would buy one.CHRIS
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6th November 2007, 09:11 AM #19
I have to agree with you mini. A one metre steel rule can be bought for very little these days and for anything longer I reckon a substancial rsj would be okay,
Denn
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6th November 2007, 09:27 AM #20
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