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Thread: plane blade bevel angles?
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13th May 2008, 01:21 PM #1
plane blade bevel angles?
25 or 30 degrees, which is best?
I suppose it depends on intended usage?
and bevel down or bevel up? I note that the krenov styles are bevel down and the HNT Gordon also seem to be bevel down. The HNT's also seem to be 30 degree bevel.
a simple explanantion or a pointer to an article somewhere would be very much appreciated
I've tried a search but no luck (maybe I can't search properly)
Thanks
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13th May 2008, 01:56 PM #2
I typed "plane blade bevel angle" into the search and found this one for a start:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...d.php?t=65580\
There are a few very long winded threads on these topics. The search results from the above query are a good starting point. The first couple of pages turned up some good hits."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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13th May 2008, 02:05 PM #3Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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13th May 2008, 11:14 PM #4
thanks gents
I'd love to have a gander at the book
I'll PM shortly
thanks
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13th May 2008, 11:41 PM #5
It doesn't really matter.
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13th May 2008, 11:43 PM #6
I reakon.
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13th May 2008, 11:46 PM #7
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14th May 2008, 01:21 AM #8
SM
There is no "best" - everything is a compromise.
A 25 degree bevel will be "sharper" than a 30 degree bevel (= greater penetration), but the 30 degree one with hold its edge longer and resist chipping better (all steel and honing held constant).
Some steels work better at higher than lower angles (A2 works better at 30 degrees than at 25 degrees). Very hard/abrasion resistant steel (eg D2) hold an edge longer but they are also harder to get sharp. Some steels are softer and hold an edge for a shorter duration (eg O1) but get sharp very easily and are much preferred for their user friendliness.
The choice between BU verses BD is not better than but one that offers different opportunities. BU blades can provide a variety of cutting angles and it is easier to dial in very high angles (needed for difficult grain). BD blades are easier to freehand hone as the BU blades require a secondary bevel via a honing guide (of course, this is a mute point if all you ever do is use a honing guide). BD are also "traditional", while BU are the "new generation" (although they have been around for centuries). Neither makes them better or worse .. just different.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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14th May 2008, 09:32 AM #9
In every thing and every way, in this life!
Hardly "mute" - there is (too) much said about it! Moot, perhaps? (Sorry - it's the academic in me...)
Apart from being a smart alec, I agree entirely with your sentiments, Derek. Having owned a LV BU job for a while, now, I find it does some jobs, like shooting end grain way better than any Bailey type (of course!), but I would never reach for it as my first choice for most flat planing. It's much easier to pick up a dedicated smoother than fiddle about changing blades to get the necessary higher angle, for starters. However, there is also the comfort of it. I suppose it's because I have weilded Baileys for close to 50 years & my hands are just too imprinted, but I don't find my BU as intuitive to use. I haven't decided if it's the position of the tote, or the fact that I just can't figure out what to do with that spare index finger!
However, if you start with one of these, you may well find a Bailey type feels weird. The only solution (& there won't be many on this BB who disagree ) is to have as many planes of as many types as you can get hold of...
Cheers,IW
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14th May 2008, 08:43 PM #10
Ian
"Moot", not "mute", or even Moet ... or though I will hoist a glass of the latter with you any old day!
Regards from Perth
Derek
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14th May 2008, 10:02 PM #11
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