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12th February 2014, 06:59 AM #1Intermediate Member
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- Oct 2011
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- Oklahoma USA
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Planing thin strips.. how I do it.
Hi I recently read an old thread here about a welded and toothed DIY clamp for holding thin pieces for planing ( https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...ht=fish+scaler ) I keep thinking I should post how I do it.. I don't have a welder yet, so maybe for others in same boat, this might come in handy. It's based on a simple Japanese idea.. nothing new.. but..
Leaning and clamped to a wall of my shed, I have a strong and straight 4x4 (inch) squared/dressed timber. I first drilled a 1 inch hole all the way through.. then chiseled a mortise to (tightly) accept a small piece of soft white pine. The pine piece acts to stop the thin strips of maple I am planing (for mandolins) from sliding away with the planes. The grain of the pine stop follows the direction of my planing and allows the plane to continue on it's course. The drilled hole allows me to be able to adjust the height of the pine "stop" from the underside. Eventually I will need to cut another Stop and fit it in the mortise.
The Japanese part of the idea is that this timber is leaning at an angle.. which for me works well with both Japanese (pictured) and my Bailey/Stanley planes.. so I am planing downhill. This position helps to hold the maple strips by gravity as well.
In the photo you see the pine just poking out of the timber and a strip of maple in position.
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15th March 2014, 12:32 AM #2
I often have this issue myself, using benchdogs that are higher than the piece of wood that I'm planing. I have been planning to make some really low profile bench dogs to end up with a solution like yours.
However, the main problem still there is how do you stop the piece from slipping sideways? I can get the end to stay against the dog, but the other end of the piece is open, and slides around. After every plane stroke, I'd be picking the piece up off the floor and putting it back on! I have a long bench dog that fits over several holes, and supports one side of the piece, but I don't really want to try to make a low-profile one of these. Love to hear how you get around this.Good things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.
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15th March 2014, 07:33 PM #3
I screw small flat headed screws into my bench one in front and one on the side, works a treat unless your precious about your bench )
Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk
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15th March 2014, 09:52 PM #4
I often use a piece of 30x30x1mm aluminium angle with one leg held in my Dawn bench vise and the other lying against the bench top. Allows me to plane down to 1.2mm for lengths up to 300mm or so on stiffer timbers with my Stanley #5.
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16th March 2014, 12:00 AM #5
Hmm, you are braver than me. I wouldn't send a plane hurtling toward a piece of metal that's going to come within .2mm of the blade! I like the idea though.
When I make some super-thin bench dogs, I think I will dowel joint them, rather than screwing the top-plate to the pin underneath. LIke I said, I don't want metal in there!Good things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.
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16th March 2014, 12:45 PM #6
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16th March 2014, 01:48 PM #7Good things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.
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16th March 2014, 04:04 PM #8
Yeh, that's why I said it usually works. Some work pieces seem inherently less stable than others for no apparent reason.
My solution is two pronged:
- Use a hold down rather than a dog, and
- Put a V-slot in the spacer that the work piece slots into.
The latter is particularly effective in stabilising narrow work pieces.
I also use some non-slip "drawer liner" stuff that I get by the roll from Big-W (kitchewares section) - thrown away the packaging of my current roll so I don't know what its called. Its also really effective in stopping stuff slipping in the vice.
Fair Winds
Graeme
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17th March 2014, 12:01 PM #9
Made myself some mini-dogs last night. Very simple design, with a dowel through the middle. This means the whole thing is wood, so if it's too big for a particular project, I can just plane it down to suit the piece I'm working on. I made two, but in hindsight, I should have made about ten, so that I can plane them down as needed, and have lots of different thicknesses. However, I think that once they are quite thin, they will probably do the job quite well for thicker work pieces anyway.
photo.JPGGood things come to those who wait, and sail right past those who don't reach out and grab them.
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18th March 2014, 12:47 AM #10Member
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- Apr 2012
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- Perth hills
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Thanks for sharing. I'm planning on building some legs for some furniture using tapered laminations and have been pondering how best to prepare them. This thread has given me some more things to consider. Thanks
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10th April 2014, 10:49 AM #11
I've tried a few things including thin bench dogs, drawer liner material, I don't think anything has been super effective when planing thin pieces. Graeme have you got a photo of your 2 prong set-up, it sounds promising, can't visualise how the v-slot in the spacer works.
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12th April 2014, 02:20 PM #12
Good Morning Tiger
Sorry, I forgot to recharge my camera batteries. Here is a quicky on SletchUp.
Dimensions are 300 x 100 x 5 mm. Just firm it with a hold-down and slide the work piece into the v-slot. The slot holds things better than just resting them up against a bench dog or spacer.
Fair Winds
Graeme
V-Spacer.png
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12th April 2014, 10:40 PM #13
Not very often I go to 1.2mm but it can be done. Its more like 2 to 2.2mm strips that I do regularly. Great to hear others solutions though so thankyou for sharing ideas. Have a look at what some of the Japanese Yosegi makers do http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llfM0...ature=youtu.be
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18th April 2014, 12:27 AM #14
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