Putting wooden plane blades in Stanleys.

**JDarvall** · 25th November 2005, 08:38 PM

A few days ago I took some photo's of my no.6 Stanley, that I've finally found the chance to post. I found this interesting. I thought maybe, some of you would too.

The idea is to improve upon the basic Stanley metal plane design, by beefing up the blades thickness. A thin blades more inclined to chatter etc.

I motivated to this, because at the time I felt after-market blades were too expensive, and I wanted to find a cheaper way. Also , I like to experiment.

I've, in a nutshell, modified a stanley design to take a thick wooden plane iron. I've talked about this before, but I think maybe it wasn't taken too seriously.... but now I've got this top little camera....

....Similar theme to my other plane threads unfortunetly.

I love this plane. Works very well. Its got an old bailey body that was heavily rusted when I got it. A frog thats from an old 4and 1/2, a front plastic (yuck) knob from...forgotten where I got that.....and a rear handle from a no.7 somewhere that I epoxied together.....but its secret weapon is the old 5mm thick iron from an old whiteant eaten wooden plane.
<div><img src="http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d74/apricotripper/7c.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />

I've found since, that its quite possible to adjust a metal planes iron without all the laterial and depth adjustment levers. You know, just rip them out and adjust with a hammer......however at the time, I was motivated to modify these levers so I could use them to adjust the old thick blade in the same way you adjust its regular thin blade. And thats what I've done.

This blades thickness influenced much. First thing I had to do was replace the existing chipbreaker bolt with a longer one so it would reach through the iron and screw in to the chipbreaker. The existing bolt just wasn't long enough.

The second thing was to lengthen the depth adjustment lever so it would reach the chipbreaker again through the iron. To do that I just put blob welds on the lever, filing in between until it was long enough. Bit like building thin little castles at the beach with runny sand...with the kids..

The third thing was I had to open the mouth. See, the thick blade just wouldn't fit. So I had to file the front of the mouth open.

The forth thing was ....that unlike the thin plane blades, that come with regular stanleys, old wooden blades have different slots. The thin blades have that circular cutout part,,,the part the chipbreaker can fit through, near the blades edge. Wooden plane blades have this cutout down the other end. This presented a problem in that the laterial adjuster of my stanley would one day reside right in this circular cutout, where there'd be too much play for it to work......So I welded in the circular cutout in this old thick blade and filed it straight with the rest of the blades slot. Pretty ruffly.

Thats it. What I ended up with was a very solid cutting Stanley. A super stanley.

. The blades 5mm thick. Has a very smooth, uncomprimising action. Probably the same sort of quality you'd get from an expensive brandname.

Here's some pictures. Rusty old sole, I electroylisisisssED and flatterned. See all the pits. Pits are GOOD !!!....Corrigated sole technology

<div><img src="http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d74/apricotripper/6c.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />

Can see the sheer thickness of the blade in this, dwarfing that pissy looking chipbreaker. Can see the replacement bolt I put in. Just a 1/4" hex headed bolt and washer.
<div><img src="http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d74/apricotripper/8c.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />

Trivial picture really. On the right you can sort of make out the extended depth adjustment lever. Can see a bit of my ruff welding and grinding work on that circular hole. And there's the old blades name. Somebody might now what that is. Haven't bothered finding out yet....something like 'C. nurbee...InvictaWorks CastSteel' .... Holds its edge well. Some old cast steel blades do, and some don't. Luckily this ones good.
<div><img src="http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d74/apricotripper/9c.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />

**Greg Q** · 25th November 2005, 11:10 PM

Excellent! Do you and your welder do requests? I've got a few of these blades looking for a home...

Have a greenie!

Greg

**UKalf** · 26th November 2005, 03:34 AM

Originally Posted by apricotripper

And there's the old blades name. Somebody might now what that is. Haven't bothered finding out yet....something like 'C. nurbee...InvictaWorks CastSteel' ....

C[harles] Nurse & Co. London. Invicta Works is right, and Best Cast Steel I think? Usually their trade mark is a prancing horse, "Diamic" I can only think of in connection with modern Henry Taylor tools, so that's a bit different. Hope you haven't got a rare iron there...

Interesting post, btw. Something I've always meant to try myself, but it just never seems to make it to the top of the list.

Cheers, Alf

**ryanarcher** · 26th November 2005, 05:45 AM

Originally Posted by appricot

Putting wooden plane blades in Stanleys.

Logic would dictate that plane blades made out of wood will not work very well. But, to each their own I guess

**JDarvall** · 26th November 2005, 06:34 AM

Originally Posted by ryanarcher

Logic would dictate that plane blades made out of wood will not work very well. But, to each their own I guess

...oh, don't you like my idea, ryan ? I guess you don't, since your only response is with a petty dig at poor gramer.

. (kidding, don't get fired up. I don't really care, like you, right ?)

Thanks everyone else. Sorry, but I better not do welding requests. probably stuff it up, unless you like rustic looking planes.

**ryanarcher** · 26th November 2005, 11:16 AM

Oh, i was just joking. no offense intended. good idea.

**JDarvall** · 26th November 2005, 01:34 PM

Originally Posted by ryanarcher

Oh, i was just joking. no offense intended. good idea.

Got ya backpeddling now !

....I was just having a dig too. No matter.

I used it this morning. Thought I'd post it being used before I take off to work. Its important, I think ,to show that it does work.

I'm cleaning up some french doors for our house. These, when installed, should finally give the wife and I the privacy we desperately need from the kids. There's 3 door ways into our room !! Ones had no doors on it for 2 years now, So they just walk in no matter what we're up to.

Mouth cam.

. Not the best picture this time. Bit blurry. You try and keep still with a camera in your mouth and your neck all crooked !
<div><img src="http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d74/apricotripper/10c.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />

And heres the plane with a trued up piece of gum with a big rebate in it, clamped to it. A fence to help plane square.
<div><img src="http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d74/apricotripper/11c.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />

**JDarvall** · 27th November 2005, 07:14 AM

Thanks Alf, on the blade info. Sorry, I was in hurry before and I missed your post.

Maybe I have welded up a rare blade, afterall :eek: .

**TassieKiwi** · 28th November 2005, 11:22 AM

Originally Posted by UKalf

C[harles] Nurse & Co. London. Invicta Works is right, and Best Cast Steel I think? Usually their trade mark is a prancing horse, "Diamic" I can only think of in connection with modern Henry Taylor tools, so that's a bit different. Hope you haven't got a rare iron there...

Interesting post, btw. Something I've always meant to try myself, but it just never seems to make it to the top of the list.

Cheers, Alf

Gidday there Alf, and welcome to this crazy BB. I have enjoyed reading your reviews, and it's largely your fault that I now have several LV planes in the cupboard. Good on yer!

**Auld Bassoon** · 28th November 2005, 08:18 PM

Now that, Sir, is what one could properly call a fence! Nay! a palisade!

I like your ideas Mr Apricotripper, keep them coming (and after the trials & tribulations I went through getting an L.N. blade to fit properly in my old Stanley #8C! - David from LN Aus. came through though, and now it's a beaut!)

Cheers!

**scooter** · 28th November 2005, 11:40 PM

Goodonya Jake, another good post

Love yer work.............cheers...............Sean

**JDarvall** · 29th November 2005, 08:07 AM

Thanks fellas.

yep, Steve, its a bit too big that fence, and the clamps are a little annoying. But it all definetly reliable at planing long door edges square. Function is unfortuneatly all I have time for lately.

Spose, I could tap holes in the side of the stanley and bolt the fence in, so I don't have to use the clamps. And, maybe have matching slots in the fence so I can make it height adjustable. Do it one day. But its height adjustable already with the clamps.

That no.8 of yours must be an experience eh. I haven't got one. Lots of heft I'd imagine. Definetly more suitable for planing longer surfaces like that door. Also imagine it to be difficult to flattern, yes ? Heard some say that its just too hard.... ?

**Greg Q** · 29th November 2005, 08:26 AM

Originally Posted by apricotripper

Thanks fellas.

....That no.8 of yours must be an experience eh. I haven't got one. Lots of heft I'd imagine. Definetly more suitable for planing longer surfaces like that door. Also imagine it to be difficult to flattern, yes ? Heard some say that its just too hard.... ?

Too hard? I don't know about that-I've only spent seven hours so far, and I'm almost there! No more than two or three more to go.

(mine had been in a fire)

Greg

**JDarvall** · 29th November 2005, 05:46 PM

Originally Posted by gregoryq

Too hard? I don't know about that-I've only spent seven hours so far, and I'm almost there! No more than two or three more to go.

(mine had been in a fire)

Greg

And it gets harder the closer it gets to completion, eh.

You just going for those 3 flat points ? uno, one at front, rear and right in front of the mouth..... I personally wouldn't bother going for completely flat. But thats me.

Goodluck with it.

**Greg Q** · 29th November 2005, 06:29 PM

Originally Posted by apricotripper

And it gets harder the closer it gets to completion, eh.

You just going for those 3 flat points ? uno, one at front, rear and right in front of the mouth..... I personally wouldn't bother going for completely flat. But thats me.

Goodluck with it.

Actually, I did give up on totally flat-there's a few thou hollow behind the mouth, but it works very well as is. I had to start the job with a file as there was a visible warp when I started. Must have been a hot fire. :eek:

Clifton blade and cap iron, and a jumbo homemade tote-a real Franken-plane.

I think the reason I liked this thread so much is that I have a few great old blades and the Clifton was such an improvement on my standard #7-more thicker seems to be more better

That greenie I offered has to wait until I bestow a few more...

Cheers
Greg

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