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  1. #1
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    Feb 2006
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    Default Removable shoulder vice

    When I built a new bench earlier this year, besides a front vice I wanted a shoulder vice on one end and an end vice on the other. However my shed is too small to accommodate both so I opted for the end vice. Not long after that I worked out a way I could add a "removable shoulder vice". I've had the vice screw and timber cut up for ages, I just needed a free day to put it all together.

    Picture 1 shows how the shoudler vice is just a part of a 90 x 45 mm jarrah frame, and how it is attached to the bench using the end vice. It's not quite as 100% firm as I would like but the vice part of it works very well.

    When in action, the reaction force of the shoulder vice screw effectively tries to break apart the frame. To counteract this a threaded rod has been inserted across the short cross member of the frame nearest the screw, see picture 2.

    Besides the vice screw, the movable face/block is attached to the frame by a sort of dovetail key that slides up and down with the face/block. A 1/4" bolt runs right through the face/block and screws into the key. The bolt can be adjusted to tension the face/block onto the frame. The sliding action is assisted with a bit of wax.

    I will probably fill in the open part of the frame with some ply to give me an expanded bench.

    Cheers

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  3. #2
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    Jul 2005
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    Toowoomba Qld.
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    Thumbs up

    G'day Bob,
    That's a nice looking solution! I can see it would work well, and the ply top can only strengthen the structure. Any movement left in it will simply be the result of leverage off the face vice. Maybe you could slip in a brace leg from the frame, back to bottom of the bench (a checked-in housing?)...maybe hinged at the top so it all stays in one piece and downward force keeps the bottom home. I take it you're putting a dog setup?

    Anyway, good luck with it!
    Andy Mac
    Change is inevitable, growth is optional.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Mac
    G'day Bob,
    That's a nice looking solution! I can see it would work well, and the ply top can only strengthen the structure. Any movement left in it will simply be the result of leverage off the face vice. Maybe you could slip in a brace leg from the frame, back to bottom of the bench (a checked-in housing?)...maybe hinged at the top so it all stays in one piece and downward force keeps the bottom home.
    Thanks Andy, the brace does sound like a good idea! I like the check-in concept.
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Mac
    I take it you're putting a dog setup?
    Yup.

    I also have a 12mm thick, C-shaped cut-out piece of steel plate already cut to size that can be wood screwed to the bottom of the vice part of the frame. This would give the vice even more strength but am in two minds about whether to add it or not at this stage.

  5. #4
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    Default Shoulder vice update

    I decided to add the C-shaped steel plate, especially after I painted it orange!
    Photo 1 is the vice from underneath showing the C-shaped plate. You can't really see it from on top. I'm eventually going to add an angle brace back to the bench as suggested by Andy Mac.

    It's way over engineered but what the heck, I like working with big safety factors

    Cheers

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL
    It's way over engineered but what the heck, I like working with big safety factors
    Cheers
    Strewth, you're not one to muck about with wincey bits, Bob. There was a discussion about ingineers a few weeks ago, and it seems a true pro designs just enough strength to do the job without breaking. I reckon the threaded rod would have been sufficient, but you've certainly added a fair safety-margin. Even a teenage son probably couldn't wreck it now!

    I made a 'travelling dog' setup on my first serious w'wrking bench, but yours is a very elegant and simpler solution, - you definitely deserve a greenie!
    I can see other applications for this system, so get your patent application in quickly!

    Just one question: I would have thought the main purpose is to push a dog against dogs on the benchtop, but can't see any provision for it in your travelling block. I would have either cut a dog hole in the block or made it by laminating 3 bits - how're you going to do it??

    Cheers,
    IW

  7. #6
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    Thanks for the greenie Ian,

    Yeah I know the C-shape is pretty much overkill. The story behind it goes like this. Originally the whole vice/frame was going to be made from some scrap bits of 90 x 25mm jarrah, using 2 and even 3 thickness laminations for the actual vice section. I discussed the strength of this set up with our workshop dude at work and he suggested adding the threaded rod and a 6mm thick steel plate which he said he would cut out for me. The next day there was a 12 mm thick plate waiting for me in my office - well I couldn't refuse it could I?

    Then when I started scrabbling around for actual timber I found some some slightly twisted bits of undressed 100 x 50 jarrah which dressed reasonably straight to 45 x 90. I also found a straight old 95 x 47 veranda post under the house I could use for the movable vice block/face(s). By the time I assembled it I could tell the whole thing was seriously strong - but I had already painted the C-Shape orange, and (like ruffly has experienced for timber) it was telling me, "go-on, you know you want to add me".

    In terms of the dog-hole system the current moveable vice block/face is sort of temporary just to get me going. I am in the process of experimenting with a couple of other faces. One is a bit longer that the one shown in the photos and has the usual dog holes on top and on the side. The other is L-shaped in two directions and has one ridge that sit proud above the bench and another that sits proud of the front. Then I have an idea for . . . . . I better stop, I always have way to many ideas and rarely enough time to carry them out.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL
    . . . . . I better stop, I always have way to many ideas and rarely enough time to carry them out.
    Hmm, Bob, this seems to be a condition most of us here on this forum suffer from!
    I'm frustrated by the slow pace of fitting out my new shed (still haven't finished screwing down the roof completely, but we usually don't get any big winds hereabouts at this time of year... ). But it's getting there, and the degree of organisation already achieved has made a huge difference - actually got a few small jobs done, lately, in about the time I would have estimated, for a change!

    Hang in there,
    IW

  9. #8
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    Default

    mate those vices look great, very nice man. got any plans for those? i like the one on the side of the bench, it looks great.
    cheers Kushy

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unit_01 View Post
    mate those vices look great, very nice man. got any plans for those? i like the one on the side of the bench, it looks great.
    cheers Kushy
    Sorry Kushy, I just made this one up as I went along. No, actually I designed bits of it during some very long boring meetings at work but I have since lost the book with the sketches in it - I'm losing too many things these days - I must be getting old! I haven't used that vice all that much, especially since my shed got really crowded after buying some more machiner, but when I have it has been the bee's knees.

    Cheers

  11. #10
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    No, actually I designed bits of it during some very long boring meetings at work
    Ah, so I'm not the only one that does that!

    Thats a good system Bob.

    How long do you reckon the dovetail key will hold up?
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clinton1 View Post
    Ah, so I'm not the only one that does that!

    Thats a good system Bob.

    How long do you reckon the dovetail key will hold up?
    The key does not come under any forces when tensioning the vice. It's primarily there to hold the movable face parallel with the top of the vice frame. If it was not there it would sort of wobble about when it was loose. At the rate I'm (not) using it the metal will be long rusted before the key gives out. In practice I think if it's well waxed it should last before the POBYHTRIA ( off because you have to replace it AGAIN) factor kicks in. I also do have a bit of brass bar from the work scrap metal heap to replace it with next time.

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