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Thread: Resawing rig...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Emerald, QLD
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    Default Resawing rig...

    So much for buying the Hafco bandsaw "just for cutting turning blanks!". Tried to cut a few boards and found the supplied rip-fence was useless and I would need feed rollers to hold the 1 metre logs I wanted to cut up for box making boards (damn that box making forum!!!).
    As the rig was only going to get occasional use, I wanted a quick, easy set-up with few or no tools required. Built the fence first with a clamp similar to the Beismeyer but with far simpler adjustment of the locking device. I have it so that the whole clamp assembly slides in or out under 1 allen-head bolt. I've also drilled a hole horizontally into the fence to hold a spring that pushes the clamp plate back against the cam, keeping the gap open when removing/replacing the fence and the lever in whatever position you leave it. The track extends far enough to allow the fence to move right back to the pillar and I've added a track to the right-hand side of the table for working the one-sided fence outside the blade and for future ideas. The left-side track mounts the same way as the original (4 wing nuts), but mounting the right-side meant tapping a couple of 8mm holes into the table (the only mod to the saw itself). A sacrificial slab of waste melamine screwed onto the fence and voila - a very solid replacement for the original fence.
    Note that the only steel on this project that wasn't recycled is the 50mm angle-iron on the feed rollers. Most of the steel came from Honda 4 wheeler crates (imperial sizes from the USA). Total outlay $115 (2 x roller sets $70, 50mm angle-iron $30, paint $15).
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

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  3. #2
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    Default Now to the feed rollers...

    I bought 2 sets of 5xroller workstands from the cheapo-importers for $35 each and pulled them apart for the rollers, bolts and some of the steel. The pictures say it all with this bit - very simple construction. The hooks on the mounts worked out great - hold the leg to support the assembly with one hand and guide the hooks over the 8mm pins with the other hand. Swing the assembly up, drop the leg and adjust for height by sight - both sides on in less than one minute - how cool's that!
    I was already to start sawing boards by the ton and the first log rained on my parade big-time! Couldn't hold that sucker square for love nor money. A quick visit to Google and I discovered "sleds". Picked the eyes out of a few designs and decided on a temporary setup for just this log to see how it goes. Was very happy with the resulting stack of Emu apple boards.
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  4. #3
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    Default And the final sled...

    The pointed screws idea worked so well I went ahead and came up with the rig in the pics. Pretty straight-forward - will only hold up to 1 metre because that was the longest bit of the channel I had. Tried it out on a very green Bauhinia log - sweet. Just need a decent blade that I can tune the drift out of - current 1" blade is joined badly with a "bump" in it and just won't stay in one place.
    PS: To whoever warned about the dangers of uncoiling a 1" blade recently - my grandson now believes "Poppy got bitten on the leg by a shark!". We live 3 hours inland - I will tell him the truth one day.
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Forest Grove, Oregon USA
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    Default

    Now that's a great rig!

    My wife's a turner, and I often rob small boards off of her log sections but I've never taken the time to build something this nice--I just showed it to her and guess who's going to rob your idea?

    Thank you for showing it in great detail.

    Take care, Mike

  6. #5
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    Thumbs up

    That is a seriously good looking setup, and a credit to you! Very professional and it certainly looks like it works well!

    Cheers,
    Andy Mac
    Change is inevitable, growth is optional.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Turramurra, NSW
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    Default

    Inspiring work!

    Couldn't see an adjustment on the sled to compensate for the blade drift. How much are you getting anyway?
    Bodgy
    "Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bodgy
    Inspiring work!

    Couldn't see an adjustment on the sled to compensate for the blade drift. How much are you getting anyway?
    Bodgy, I'm running the sled along the fence which can be adjusted for drift with a couple of grubscrews. I reckon having a guide through the mitre slot as some sleds do is too restrictive. Although I included grubscrews into the fence to adjust for drift, I would prefer to adjust the blade to zero drift - maybe on the next blade from a different supplier.
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  9. #8
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    Glen Innes NSW
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    Thumbs up Good rig

    TTIT,

    As usual from your quarter, excellent work, good sound ideas, great stuff.


    Regards Mike

  10. #9
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    Default

    I don't like it.

    Makes my effort at a fence look like a right POS...

    Great work, looks like a bought one and obviously works a treat.

    The reason you couldn't hold that 'log' flat and square was because of drift and/or tension.

    Two things you can try that will mean the sled is optional, and prolly nice for big ungainly things anyway.

    One, adjust your fence to match the blade. Your blade there is about 1/3 the size of mine in width, and while the extra width helps to reduce blade drift, it does not eliminate it. No need to wait for a new blade, you can do it now. Seems like you have enough adjustment to go resaw with a 1/8" blade and still be able to adjust for drift.

    Make a sub fence that extends no further than the back of the blade. If the board you are cutting opens up after the cut, the whole exercise goes to heck in a handbasket right quick. Stopping the fence behind the blade means the board can do whatever the heck it wants to, and it will not affect your cut.

    I am sure you will come up with something nicer than my quicky MDF thing that I haven't needed to fix or change just yet.


    BTW, have a greenie. I insist!

  11. #10
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    East Bentleigh, Melbourne, Vic
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    Default

    Very very professional looking; the fence looks like a store bought one, and I like the in- and out-feed setup. Hmmm, must copy....

    Schtoo's idea on the sub-fence is a practical and simple solution to many resawing blues.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Michigan - USA
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    Thumbs up

    Very nice! I love the infeed outfeed. Looks better than storebought.

    Only down thing I see is that your cast iron top there on your saw needs some attention. I live in a humid area and fight that all the time. Don't let it get away from you.

  13. #12
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    Port Pirie SA
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    Default

    One thing I can add that may help somewhat, when Im resawing on my BS I remove the plastic throat insert then nearly all of the saw dust is removed by the dust extractor... your log wont catch on it as its carried by the sled.

    I see your using a nice straight log... wait till you get a bendy one!(packers come in handy...)
    ....................................................................

  14. #13
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Schtoo
    Make a sub fence that extends no further than the back of the blade. If the board you are cutting opens up after the cut, the whole exercise goes to heck in a handbasket right quick. Stopping the fence behind the blade means the board can do whatever the heck it wants to, and it will not affect your cut.
    Schtoo - Very logical idea that I will certainly try out - makes a lot of sense! In the meantime though, I turfed the wonkie 1" blade, put a new 3/8" blade on and tuned it according to an article in Fine Woodworking by Michael Fortune. No drift to worry about now. Some of the tuning instructions I've seen have been pretty daunting but this was easy and worked out great. (Sorry - copyright on article - cannot reproduce! Nov/Dec 2004)

    Eightbit - I've been meaning to do something about that rusty top but not sure how to tackle it. Left some green sawdust on there one night and didn't it make a mess :mad: :mad:

    Harry - I'll try it without the insert next time. Plenty of 'bendy' Sally wattle logs coming up. All the big stuff is stored on the daughters acre - no room here.
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  15. #14
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    Mar 2006
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    Michigan - USA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TTIT
    Eightbit - I've been meaning to do something about that rusty top but not sure how to tackle it. Left some green sawdust on there one night and didn't it make a mess
    In the states here they sell a product called "rust free". It does wonders for taking off surface rust like you have, Just make sure you seal it with something like "top kote" or "t9" after wards since "rust free" strips everything. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    Launceston, Tasmania
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    Default

    TTIT,

    I use Lanotec, which is a spray can of Lanolin.

    Works great.

    Havn't seen it in the hardware stores, bought mine from Nuts & Bolts in Launceston, Tas.

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