Reverse angle shooting board

[Blue-deviled]

Goodness, is that even possible, it sounds far to uncomplicated!

Cheers
Michael

Wait until I make a board with a rotating stop, and a adjustable plane shoot (for nose down or nose up, bevel down extreme skew edging)!

[orraloon]

Not saying a lot about ramp up or down as my board is the lazy man flat sort. One thing about shooting boards is that the edge of the plane sole rides along the edge of the bed so where there is space under a ramp then the bed will get planed away. That first pic shows a gap where the plane sole edge has nothing to contact. May be ok for a longish plane but I would be filling that in with a wedge if it were my board.
Regards
John

[ian]

I have noticed looking at Derek's web page that he shoots the mitred corners on the boxes he makes. With all the mitred boxes I have made I have used the surface left by the table saw cut to glue on, my thinking is the courser surface left by the saw will give a better key for the glue considering it is end grain.

I'm not sure I agree with your reasoning. With end grain to end grain glueing I think you want the glue to reach down into the wood fibres (which are like tubes) and then cross link across the joint. If the ends of these tubes are cleanly cut the ability of the glue reach into the tubes should be improved compared to rough ends. Then again, depending on you choice of glue, the whole question maybe accademic.

Not saying a lot about ramp up or down as my board is the lazy man flat sort. One thing about shooting boards is that the edge of the plane sole rides along the edge of the bed so where there is space under a ramp then the bed will get planed away. That first pic shows a gap where the plane sole edge has nothing to contact. May be ok for a longish plane but I would be filling that in with a wedge if it were my board.
Regards
John

I'm with John on this,

[Basilg]

Of the two options, the sawn mitre surface would be stronger than the shot mitres, but I think this difference would be marginal, & neither would withstand any hard knocks without some reinforcement such as keys. Additionally the shot mitre is more likely to produce a neater joint.

Regards

[derekcohen]

Smooth surfaces are better for glueing. Rough sawn edges will present less glueing area where they join, which is an issue for non-gap filling glues.

Smooth surfaces are certainly going to create a tighter and cleaner fit ... which is what you want on mitres.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Phil Spencer]

Smooth surfaces are better for glueing. Rough sawn edges will present less glueing area where they join, which is an issue for non-gap filling glues.

Smooth surfaces are certainly going to create a tighter and cleaner fit ... which is what you want on mitres.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I get a tight clean fit on my mitres straight from the saw Derek, the mitres have held tight when glued up, but then having an engineering background and being a belt and braced type I always strengthen the joint with a key.

[derekcohen]

Hi Phil

I was assuming - since we are talking hand tools - that the saw you were referring to was a handsaw. My guess now is that you meant a power saw. A handsaw, unless Japanese, will leave teeth marks. These are not flat like those sides off a plane.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Basilg]

Yes I should have clarified I was talking about off the table saw, or a nicely executed cut with a fine handsaw such as a dozuki.

The joints will hold fine without keys, on boxes and such, but they will open up if they are dropped or suffer a hard knock ( I can attest to that )

Regards

[Phil Spencer]

Hi Phil

I was assuming - since we are talking hand tools - that the saw you were referring to was a handsaw. My guess now is that you meant a power saw. A handsaw, unless Japanese, will leave teeth marks. These are not flat like those sides off a plane.

Regards from Perth

Derek

A saw is a saw is a saw Derek so long as it is nice and sharp they all do the same job except one makes a bit more noise and is less effort to use. From an engineering point of view that is. I think I did mention that I use a table saw Derek.

BTW I am quite familiar with hand tools I made all my own by hand and some help from machines when I was a first year apprentice. I can still remember hand filing a perfectly square 1" x 1" x 1" mild steel block, sorts the men from the boys.

I still have the tools, the 6V series DC motor I made from scratch still sits on my bookshelf, we were not allowed to glue a coin showing the date under these so we used washers with the date stamped in instead.

[mic-d]

I can still remember hand filing a perfectly square 1" x 1" x 1" mild steel block, sorts the men from the boys.

That's the tool you throw at time wasters, door to door salesmen and at the wall when you stuff up?

[Basilg]

I can still remember hand filing a perfectly square 1" x 1" x 1" mild steel block, sorts the men from the boys.

we were not allowed to glue a coin showing the date under these so we used washers with the date stamped in instead.

Aaah happy days. I think my favourite ? was hand scraping a surface plate.

Defacing coins was a definite no no, & I wonder if it is still subject to a term in the Tower

Regards

[Phil Spencer]

That's the tool you throw at time wasters, door to door salesmen and at the wall when you stuff up?

Don't know where the block is now wish I still had it.

Aaah happy days. I think my favourite ? was hand scraping a surface plate.

Defacing coins was a definite no no, & I wonder if it is still subject to a term in the Tower

Still use most of the tools, some of the clamps need a bit of attention to remove some surface rust

As a snotty nosed apprentice earning $18.00 per week I couldn't afford to waste money, I learnt the value of the coin of the relm then,

I am still a tight A## and just can't fathom throwing money away by gluing it to bits of wood (what is that saying? look after the pennies and the pounds look after themselves) so I use washers instead.. I could go on for hours about people who throw money away, I find it some how offensive.

Regards[/quote]

[Phil Spencer]

i mentioned the 6V DC Series motor I made as an apprentice I know this is off topic here are some pictures.

Attachment 191108

Attachment 191109

Attachment 191110

[derekcohen]

A saw is a saw is a saw Derek so long as it is nice and sharp they all do the same job except one makes a bit more noise and is less effort to use. ....

Hi Phil

A handsaw does not leave the same kerf as a power saw in my experience. The handsaw will leave a slightly ragged surface, and this is why it needs to be planed flat.

Here are some images I took when comparing the LV 20 pip and 14 pip dovetail saws and the IT 15 pip dovetail saw.

First vertical rip cuts were made ...



.. and then these were cut open to reveal the surface of the kerf ..



On a mitre, such as a picture frame, I would want to plane that flat. By contrast, if I used a table saw, I would get a smooth, glassy finish that, if the angles were accurate, could be joined as they were.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Blue-deviled]

I'm sticking to flat shooting boards from now on. After reading all the excellent posts, I've decided I don't wish to push a plane against an uphill piece of wood (did I say wood?)

Have we explored the drag coefficients of various planes, and the surfaces on which they run? I presume that the shiniest planes set up a vacuum, and end up 'locking-on'?

cheers,
B-D.