Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 23
Thread: Rip-fence with 'memory'
-
15th January 2006, 12:11 PM #1
Rip-fence with 'memory'
I've been using the 'prototype' of this fence for a couple of years now and finally got around to painting it to make it presentable enough to show others that might be interested. When I started designing this table saw (8 years ago), I looked at everything I could find to get ideas for a rip fence that would work the way I wanted but could find nothing. The criteria was simple enough....
Lightweight.
Sized to be stored on the saw somewhere.
Quick and easy to install.
NO parallel flex.
No fixtures protruding beyond table top.
Fence positionable beyond table top.
All controls at front as with all the other saw functions.
Memory - what I hated on my old saw was the hassle involved when I was happily ripping boards and suddenly needed to dock just one board for whatever reason with the crosscut fence. This meant removing the rip fence and too much mucking around to get things set up for ripping again afterwards.
My current setup has all I wanted - very happy with it.
Very light (whatever 950mm of 50x25 Alum' RHS and 6mm rod weighs!) and compact - no bulky 'T' section on one end.
No flex - both ends fixed in place.
Drops on to one of 4 positions across table with one hand operation.
Winds out 800mm to the left and 1120mm to the right of the blade.
Best of all, once you lock the rack in place, you can unlatch the rip fence, use the crosscut fence, then just re-clip the rip fence back in exactly the same place - MEMORY!!!.
-
15th January 2006 12:11 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
15th January 2006, 12:16 PM #2
Operation is simple. Drop the fence on to the locating holes on top of the parallel racks (black pads) and move the lever down to the lock position. This action first pulls the pin into the locking hole on the side of the rack followed by upward lift which pulls the fence down hard on to the pad.
Next, just wind the big brass knob left or right to locate the fence where you want it and pull the free swinging lever up to the knob which clamps the parallel racks against the table edge. Too easy!
For anyone that's interested, the racks were cut by hand - angle grinder in a rolling jig I use to resurface boards with the router. The pinions are from Holden starter motors - apologies to all the Ford fans! The big brass knob was turned from an enormous shear-pin they use in the coal wash plants.
The shafts are 1/2" steel from discarded line printers. I'm a bit of a hoarder and the whole saw is covered in scrounged bits from everything from washing machines to motorbikes.
-
15th January 2006, 12:35 PM #3
Fabulous!!!!!!!!! Wher did the rack and pinion setup come from? I am truely impressed.
-
15th January 2006, 12:37 PM #4
What a clever design! The only "improvement" I can think of would be to have a handle on the brass knob to speed up movement. However, given the coarse rack that may not actually be a problem.
How easy is it to make fine adjustments?
-
15th January 2006, 12:54 PM #5
Mark - The handle was considered but with 4 spots to choose from, you never have to move the fence that far anyway.
Fine adjustment is a bit 'iffy'. If the 'prototype' didn't work so well and I had to do it again, I would use a much finer toothed rack and smaller gears for just that reason.
-
15th January 2006, 01:20 PM #6
Great job and engineering, I realy like the four position points , also opens up the chance to have set points for nominal widths like 100mm 250mm etc by drilling a hole through the the rail and guide for a pin
Once again great job,but even better when you can use stuff you have lying about
RgdsAshore
The trouble with life is there's no background music.
-
15th January 2006, 04:47 PM #7
Excellent
Ttit
Great work on the refinements for your table saw. I built a table saw which has up to 48 degree angle capability, and will cut 114 mm with a 12 inch blade. It uses either 10 or 12 inch blades. I have used it quite a bit without problems. I have to make a substantial fence system for it and fit some switching. I have gleaned a few ideas with what you have done Thanks. My saw can be seen at http://gallery.groov-e.com/ I have broken down a 4 x 4 x 8ft hardwood post on it so it works quite well for a home brew outfit. Once again good one and look forward to more posts with any more refinements. It is quite rewarding doing your work on gear you made yourself.
Regards Mike
-
16th January 2006, 12:07 AM #8
Mike - Had a look at your saw - nicely done. I'm getting 84mm from the 10" blade on mine. I've left enough room to fit a phantom pivot point when I find the right bits and pieces to bring the pivot to the table-top line. Once that happens, I'll go to a steel top like yours and get 6mm or better back.
Had a sticky at your woodwork while I was there - very tidy dovetails - good stuff!
-
16th January 2006, 10:51 PM #9
Great Job TTiT.
I like the ideal of resetting your last location. I my self use an Incra for that but your right on that "T" set sticking out alll most 2 foot with in full right posstion.
Just wonder how much play is in the fence then moving side to side and does it allways lock perpendicular to your miter slot.JunkBoy999
Terry
-
16th January 2006, 11:44 PM #10Originally Posted by junkboy999
-
17th January 2006, 12:17 AM #11
That is absolutely freaking amazing. :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Maybe the best fence I have seen yet, and I know I'm going to at least replicate it when I do a saw for myself.
Not sure my first stop would have been here though. Maybe the patent office may have been more suitable.
-
17th January 2006, 01:08 AM #12Ageing, balding,teenager
- Join Date
- Nov 2004
- Location
- Belfast, NI, UK
- Posts
- 40
WOW! saw
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: too!
Humm....er.....um....does the BIG BRASS KNOB/ECCENTRIC clamp onto the face of the rack and press it onto the frame of the saw? (with likewise happening at the back of the saw?) I'm not quite getting my aging grey matter to see this in the abstract.
Secondly, do you need a spring anywhere to withdraw the clamping faces from the rack to permit movement of the fence?
Do you think Bill Beismeyer and his merry men are pouring over this even as we speak?? Patent office PDQ mate!!!!
Cheers, from the soggy centre of our changing weather patterns, Sam
-
17th January 2006, 11:18 PM #13Originally Posted by SammieQ
-
18th January 2006, 02:37 AM #14Ageing, balding,teenager
- Join Date
- Nov 2004
- Location
- Belfast, NI, UK
- Posts
- 40
Table saw fence
Thanks for the prompt reply TTIT; got the bonce round it now. Beisemeyer is the American guru of fences; try putting it in Google and see his wondrous creation from 30 odd years ago. He/his heirs cream off a substantial portion of the 'retro-fit' market in the USA.
I personally believe YOUR design is by far the canine's reproductive anatomy, as it has a superior clamping mechanism and is more versatile for the home/garage/basement crowd that post here. Given that we usually don't have room for a permanent long fence, having a simple, self stowing, extensible item like this is an absolute boon. In fact, you've inspired me so much, I feel the need to tell SWIMBO to do her own shopping, the dependents to look up their own answers for that Maths homework and that dammed moggy can bury whatever it likes in the flowerbed, I'm busy!
Cheers, Sam
-
18th January 2006, 08:08 AM #15
Thanks
TTIT, thanks for the kind words. The steel top on my saw at the moment does not allow the tilt function, almost zero clearance. I built the saw with the function and used it quite a lot then I bought a SCMS which did away with the need for the 48degree tilt blade. Its nice to know that it has the capability when needed, a few screws and change the plate, ten minutes and its a goer.
My saw has a few pieces removed for clarity but for a home brew with rise and fall as well as tilt it works a treat. I do not see any need to rush off and buy another at this stage. I contemplated getting a couple of ring gears and straightening them out for the purpose but realised that once you straighten them out the pinion will not fit. I enjoy making bits and pieces out of metal and during the last few years wood. I may attack the tablesaw during winter and add some more refinements. Did you notice the horizontal router which fits on the top of the saw? It works well for raised panel work.
Kind Regards
Mike
Similar Threads
-
ALIGN A RIP Fence
By gazarm in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 11Last Post: 31st October 2005, 07:47 AM -
WC rip fence & the router table
By BarryBurgess in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 13Last Post: 15th August 2005, 10:32 PM -
Rip Fence
By Darknight in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 4Last Post: 26th February 2005, 07:08 AM -
Table saw rip fence - which one?
By Robert WA in forum TABLE SAWS & COMBINATIONSReplies: 3Last Post: 12th August 2003, 08:19 PM -
Rip Fence
By rsm_gbg in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 4Last Post: 10th August 2002, 10:20 PM